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Lwb Samurai build round 3

258K views 441 replies 108 participants last post by  BCzuk  
#1 ·
So I have been saving up $$$ and trying to find good deals on parts for the last year. A couple months ago I had gathered enough stuff to get going so I started 3rd round of changes on my Samurai. The truck was wheeling great but I wanted it to be a bit lower and gain some wheelbase.

A short recap:

Round 1 was toys, yjs, 16 valve and some 6.5s

pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=685136&highlight=lwb+samurai


Round 2 was a 22re, toy 5 speed and toy duals with some armour

pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=801699

Round 3 the zuk is getting linked with coilovers front and rear. It started off with the project going to be some what simple but some changes a long the way turned into being a bit more time consuming :D
 
#3 · (Edited)
I am doing the build at my work so I need to keep the truck able to move in and out so I started with tackling the back first. Once the back is ready to go I will start the front

I had to make room for the rear coilovers so I decided it would be easier to start with a fresh rear frame. I used some 2x4x1/8 wall for the new frame rails. I also used 1/8 plate for the reinforcing

Cut and angled the new pieces to match the curve of the stock frame

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I added some DOM sleeves for the bumper

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Welded on

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Top and bottom plates

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Also plated the outside and inside. I dont think it will ever break apart :D

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#6 ·
So last year we went down the Hammers and the body took a bit of a beating especially the passenger quarter panel

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So after much debate about how we were going to do the rear wheels we decided to start fresh....

Bye bye lwb body lol

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#12 ·
Took the opportunity to build the new exhaust while I had lots easy access. Im going to try a smaller stockish muffler due to packaging and trying to keep the sound low http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-17702/ I also bought some universal U bends, a universal flex pipe and stainless exhaust clamps. $160 and a couple hours and i had some new custom exhaust

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#13 ·
BigCountyCustoms hooked me up with a great deal on some 37" Procomp stickies

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and UGET IT from Method Motorsports (P4x4 vendor) was the hookup for some new PRP seats. I was extremely happy with my dealings with both companies :beer: Since I am changing the rear wheel wells I was able to order a 40" wide rear bench. PRP also made a rear booster cushion for my 4 year old which the harness loops through

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#14 · (Edited)
I used some 10 gauge satin-coated steel to start on the new body panels. I welded the new panels to the 3/16 that was already there for the rockers to start joining it all together.

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Starting cutting the wheel wells and rolled some material for the corners
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and once they were set I added some 3/8s solid to the wheel well edge to smooth it out

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Getting there

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#19 ·
Thanks

you lost the mini truck tail gate! LOL
Pics went back in time :laughing:

I have been uploading pics from my iphone from the last couple months so some of the timeline is a little off. That also explains the great quality of the pics :flipoff2:




My old super gas tank wasnt going to fit any more so I bent up some 1/8 aluminum and my friend was nice enough to tig it for me. The tank is 24"x18"x6" high which gets me just over 11 gallons. I had to crop off one corner to clear the exhaust

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move the Walbros and other guts from the old tank

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Took advantage of the powdercoating at work

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Here is the gas tank skid plate which is also 1/8 aluminum

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#20 · (Edited)
I wanted the zuk to be somewhat weather proof so Cody and I started planning out the rear sheet metal a few weeks ago. Most of the stuff in this build was cut with a 4.5" angle grinder and cutting discs :D

Making templates
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I used 14 gauge satin coat for all these pieces
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I didnt take any pics but I used some 1'x1" thin wall square tube for a frame under the floor and some heavier 1"x1" for the rear seat frame

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Welded up and ground smooth

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In this pic you can see the latches we used to close the tailgate. Just some simple stainless steel spring loaded pins that I modded to get the handles outside of the aluminum skin.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SLFZWC

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#22 · (Edited)
Last weekend I was able to finish up the sheet metal and get it all in primer. I also spent a couple hours underneath with a tube of seam sealer so hopefully I wont have any rust for a while.

You can see the added bar to the shock tower for the rear harnesses

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Cody spent a couple hours smoothing out some of the weld seams

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Then the other day I gator guarded the interior and wheel wells

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Powdercoated the rear diff and tailgate

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#23 ·
Since my gas tank is stuffed right under the floor it was going to be a pain to have a fuel door on the body without losing space in the rear cargo area. I found this cool gas fill from a boat place online which looked like it would work.

It connects right into the top of the gas tank with a short 2" hose.

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#25 ·
I know I know but it was just too smashed up to really fix it right. Plus the drivers side had alot of mud in it from its previous life. If I could afford to have 2 I would of started over with a swb but you have work with what you have.

As it sits now I am at 104" wb and after the front is done it should be about 107" so its now a longer lwb Samurai :D
 
#27 · (Edited)
I added a couple inches to the overall body length so no more hard top but someone local is going to be building me a sweet safari style soft top in the next month or so.

The hardtops are fairly rare so I will hopefully find another lwb owner that can use it since its in pretty decent shape