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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 116955
Location: Philippines
Posts: 77
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Toyota front axle and spindle info
I know a lot of zuk guys run toy axles and my rig is a samurai so I thought I'd ask here also. Hope someone can help.
I'm ordering double splined axles for my rear full float conversion using toy front outers. Andrew needs some info on the snap ring groove and measurements of the spindle "Should snap ring dimensions be?: - Groove depth: 1.220 - Groove width: .080 to .100 - Button width: .200 What's the Toyota spindle ID?" He wants to make sure the axle he'll be making won't be too thick. Thanks in advance |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Member # 11983
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 2,957
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I'm no machinist but with my cheap harbor freight calipers I got a couchy hair over 34mm the battery is dead so that a visual read. Luckily I had a spindle laying around. Name the axle pac man hope that helps
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My crappy build [url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=587635[/url] |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 116955
Location: Philippines
Posts: 77
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thanks for that
![]() I just used a tape measure.. you're right I got close to 35mm's its a Dana 44 with toy front outers now. pac man.. took me a while to get that. Last edited by jayboy; 05-15-2011 at 09:07 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 116955
Location: Philippines
Posts: 77
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actually I wanted to start a new topic about my rear axle.. but since we're talking about it, Ill just post it here..
I bent my rear flanged Dana 44's probably coz Im using 2 inch steel spacers (heavy) that put a lot of leverage on the axle specially when doing this ![]() I didnt want to just replace the axle and keep on using the spacers so I decided to convert to full-floating using toyota front parts. machined an adapter that will bolt to the axle housing flange ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Question in my head is.. Was it worth it? is this a good rear lightweight axle for a samurai on 36's? better than a toyota? (everywhere I look ppl say toy rears are unbreakable under a zuk and dana 44 is crap) I now have a full-float rear thats around 55" WMS with thick (er than toy tubes), bigger ring gear, 30 spline inner and outer chromo axles.. Im just trying to convince myself this was better than getting a complete toy axle for the rear.. besides I already got the gears and the locker for the dana |
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#5 (permalink) |
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pudpounder
Join Date: Apr 2007
Member # 89997
Location: nm
Posts: 252
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Good idea, I think it is a workable solution, the big expense in the locker and gears, whether it is better than a stock 44 or a toy, time will tell. Nice machine work though.
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87 samurai, 2.0, 3spd auto, 6.5 tc, loaded toy truck axles, 4.88's with ARBs,TT Trailslayer and 38's |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 146004
Location: Fort Bragg, ca
Posts: 103
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The toyota axle is deceptively strong. I'd say that if you went 4130 the toyota shafts are stronger. If you have 4140 I'd guess them about the same. The 8" also has the benefit of drop out third for less hanging up, though with 36's clearly that is less of an issue.
Toyota's semifloater is strong for a semifloater, but still has ballbearings versus your tapered rollers. Also you can break a shaft and easily pull it on the trail and replace or still drive. Especially factoring the rear cover access issue. I would say it's somewhat of a tossup until you factor your investment into this axle previous to your current mod. And the kewl factor which merits bragging rights!
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Sami 6.5:1 xcase Alloy axles PS 1.6 block (9.6:1) 1.3 head, triY 2", ratchet lockers. Last edited by totalloser; 05-22-2011 at 05:04 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 116955
Location: Philippines
Posts: 77
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yeah, thats what I always hear.. that toy axles have supernatural magic strength
![]() if I had the money, I would have built toy axles right from the start but the danas were cheap.. less than 200 for the set.. gears were less than 50 per axle lockers around 200 shafts im getting are 4340.. thats where cheap stopped |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 146004
Location: Fort Bragg, ca
Posts: 103
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Yeah, I figured they were run of the mill chrome-moly until I tried to machine a lathe adapter for a bigger chuck out of them. I machine CM all the time for tractor pins, and had to give up on cutting the Toy axle. c6 carbide wouldn't do squat to it except work harden the surface.
Dunno what the magic toy axles are made of but they are "good" metalurgy. I was referring to more than the locker and gears as far as previous investment, that's some fancy coil springs on that axle! Obviously that's a lot of work that'd be nice to not have to do over.PS 3140 was a typo I meant 4130
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Sami 6.5:1 xcase Alloy axles PS 1.6 block (9.6:1) 1.3 head, triY 2", ratchet lockers. Last edited by totalloser; 05-22-2011 at 05:11 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 116955
Location: Philippines
Posts: 77
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yup they were the fanciest pair of springs I could find in the junk yard
dont even know what car they came out off.. but I think my bling limit straps are fancieryeah, youre right.. major reason of not changing the axle was not having to redo coil mounts and link brackets etc.. I believe the cheapest axle is the one already underneath the vehicle.. just have to polish it the samurai axles were unpolishable for 36's
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