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Old 06-22-2011, 01:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Sami Engine Swap

I saw this on our local Craigslist.

I can't decide if I want to swap a 4.3L Vortec, Cummins 4BT, or a VW diesel into my Sami.

I plan to put Yota axles under it this summer, then worry about the power plant later, as I currently have a rebuilt 1.3L under the hood with only 30K miles on it.


http://missoula.craigslist.org/pts/2429049458.html



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Old 06-22-2011, 01:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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One day I really really want to swap a 1.9 TD in my zuk. Either that or a supercharged 3.8 with a auto
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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One thing to think about is that if you do a VW turbo diesel swap is that you and everybody else on a trail ride with you will have to breath....

....STANKIN ASS DIESEL EXHAUST FUMES ALL DAY LONG

Rode with a group at Tellico one day that had a diesel engine swap in the group,DAMN... SMELT that STANKIN CRAP ALL DAY LONG

But, if you are wantin a diesel swap for a street/dd zuki, I say HELL YEA to the VW td engine
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplezuki View Post

But, if you are wantin a diesel swap for a street/dd zuki, I say HELL YEA to the VW td engine
Exactly,for an "expedition/camping" rig the 1.9 would be awesome..
I'm leaning towards a 2.0 supercharged ecotech for the buggy upgrade
and get rid of the 4.3..
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackrider View Post
Exactly,for an "expedition/camping" rig the 1.9 would be awesome..
I'm leaning towards a 2.0 supercharged ecotech for the buggy upgrade
and get rid of the 4.3..

Same here except mine is a 1.6l 16v right now. the eco tec 2.0 supercharged is really looking like a very feasible engine 4 me with plenty of power.

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Old 06-22-2011, 04:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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X2 with what blackrider and purplezuki said, that stink and fumes coming out of them is horrid unless ur way in front of them then u have to listen to them rattle all day long
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i am going with a 22re, toy trans/transfer and toy axles for the simple fact that i ride with mostly toyota guys and that means the part are interchangeable. this way we can share spare parts if needed.

i would look at who you ride with. if its chevy guys use the 4.3 etc...
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i would look at who you ride with. if its chevy guys use the 4.3 etc...
Some of the best advice out there.

I would go as far as to apply that to axles, engines, transmissions etc. It is one of the reasons I don't go with Toyota axles. the Toyota crowd has an "in" on parts and axles, because all their friends run them. Now If I wanted to go with Dana's I could get parts free or cheap all day long, but don't want heavy under my rig.
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I don't agree with that ,everyone should be self sufficiant as to carrying
spare parts and tools for there own rig..in a perfect world ,just sayin'
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I am with you on that, I was more aimed at collecting and buying parts for a build and at home. I try and carry everything I need for the trip if I break I can usually fix it.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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well yes ideally everyone has their own spare parts but since it is not an ideal world you are bound to be missing something. odds are you are only going to break what you dont have. nice to have the option of goods friends with spare parts. remember though it is a two way road, lend to those in need.
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Ive had a 1.9TD, It does have plenty of power, but it runs annoyingly loud and it is damn heavy. Not reliable for me either, and it was parked with a rattling diesel. I would rather have a light gas engine with enough power, like an ecotec 2.0

ed: or a m18, this is bolt on with a mix of jimny and samurai parts

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Old 06-23-2011, 10:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ts21greener View Post
i am going with a 22re, toy trans/transfer and toy axles for the simple fact that i ride with mostly toyota guys and that means the part are interchangeable. this way we can share spare parts if needed.
This is what I have now and its not bad at all
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Two suggestions regarding stink and noise. First, if that's really a concern, and you don't mind less power, get an IDI engine rather than a TDI. The TDI is high compression for a direct injected (19:1 if I remember right but most DI's are more like 16:1). But the 1.5 IDI is 23.5:1 and the 1.6 is 23:1 and the combustion is less noisy and more turbulent in an IDI making for less emissions. Unfortunately also less power and less boost before spitting a headgasket.

Second would be RUN BIODIESEL. Especially on the trail. Some of the earlier 1.5 and 1.6 engines require a seal kit to survive the solvency of bio tho. You won't be stinkin' folks out in your greizel with bio.

As to a 4bt FORGET IT in a sami unless you want to build a buggy. The torque is VIOLENT and that engine is HEAAAAVY. And you'd be silly to not to run 250ish hp worth of fueling and 30-35 psi of boost to help offset the power/weight ratio. In fact, even in a buggy forget it. The 4bt would destroy every piece of running gear in a Sami.

Having said that, a 4bt (hopefully p series not a ve pump) could have some SERIOUS power with a stock 6bt turbo, (I'd choose a hy35) The early getrag or stock autos would survive behind a built up 4bt. And even the smaller 12.25" stock clutches would handle the power. 4bt's good for about 250ish hp at the crank with just turbo and fueling mods and an aftercooler. Ve pump might not deliver enough fueling for that level of power, though.

PS since you're thinking about toyota axles AND a diesel I'd go with a VW and 4x4 toy trans and case to straighten the rear drive shaft out. Bolt in kits for the 4cyl w56 (don't use an old L series, it won't hold up) are available. I think you can also use a v6 R series if you get a bell off a 22ret turbo trans, or a Tacoma w59 (driver's drop tho) if you get a 22r/re bell.

You'd lose some gearing at the transfer case because the toy is 1:1 in high, but the stock diffs will drop some (3.90 or 4.10) and the diesel will help A LOT for low end-you might not want too low of gearing anyhow. The stock transfer case and mounts would become a serious weak link in your running gear. Especially behind ANY diesel engine. Low end torque breaks stuff, and all diesels make copious amounts of it.
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:50 AM   #15 (permalink)
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My vote would go 22RE. That's what I have now and it's plenty of power. I've wheeled them in much heavier rigs and they do just fine. Of course, if I can talk my buddy out of his shitter Bonneville with the supercharged 3.8 I'll be putting that in.
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Old 06-24-2011, 01:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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10-4 on the 22RE, or maybe the 3.8 Bonne engine,

But NO on the biodiesel , unless it is a form of the stuff I am not familiar with?

Some of our treehuggin, boggin wearin,green peacin customers converted their old Mercedes Benz 300 D,s over to run on that shit and they STANK

They STANK WORSE than the regular diesel does, smell like a damn mcdonalds dumpster on fire...STANK.

And if we had one in the shop for half a day in he summer, they would have a SWARM of flies buzzin on em

And all that etra CRAP in em to make it all WORK ....DAMN.

But if they make a form of it that don,t STANK..I say SOUNDS GOOD too.
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Old 06-24-2011, 03:50 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Unless you are going yota drivetrain all the way stick with a 16 valve. or a suzuki 2 liter

If you want a toy drive line (tranny t-case etc) then go for it.

Adapting Toyota axles to the Sammy transfer case is a cake walk, so if just want to run Toyota axles without all the other stuff, stay Suzuki it's easier and puts out 100 horse or better.
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:37 AM   #18 (permalink)
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You should forget the diesel and look for 2.0 Suzuki engine, if you find a 2.3 they work as well but need parts from a 2.0 to work. I would like to run against a 4.3, I think a 2.0 would outrun and outperform it. Weight and rev limit is against the 4.3
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:32 AM   #19 (permalink)
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You should forget the diesel and look for 2.0 Suzuki engine, if you find a 2.3 they work as well but need parts from a 2.0 to work. I would like to run against a 4.3, I think a 2.0 would outrun and outperform it. Weight and rev limit is against the 4.3


X2

I think the 2liter is the perfect balance of power and weight, especially in a light weight rig.
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Old 06-26-2011, 03:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Can you get a stand alone harness for the 2.0?
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Old 06-26-2011, 04:12 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Can you get a stand alone harness for the 2.0?


Brent from Trail Tough will redo a factory harness and make it stand alone. I talked to him about doing mine but ended up doing it myself with a lot of help from a friend.

With a little machine work on the flywheel the 2liter will bolt straight to a tracker transmission, which made the choice to run one very easy for me.
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Old 06-26-2011, 04:28 PM   #22 (permalink)
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10-4 on the 22RE, or maybe the 3.8 Bonne engine,

But NO on the biodiesel , unless it is a form of the stuff I am not familiar with?

Some of our treehuggin, boggin wearin,green peacin customers converted their old Mercedes Benz 300 D,s over to run on that shit and they STANK

They STANK WORSE than the regular diesel does, smell like a damn mcdonalds dumpster on fire...STANK.

And if we had one in the shop for half a day in he summer, they would have a SWARM of flies buzzin on em

And all that etra CRAP in em to make it all WORK ....DAMN.

But if they make a form of it that don,t STANK..I say SOUNDS GOOD too.
Uhhh if they had to "convert" they weren't running biodiesel. And fwiw I don't think anyone would mistake my biodiesel burning coal rolling duallie on big rigs for a hippie wagon. Biodiesel is PATRIOTIC unless your patriotism lies with binfockhead and his homies. MADE IN USA.

I think the main issue for the diesels is simply the weight, but a 22r/re is iron block too, so you get the weight there.
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Old 06-26-2011, 04:35 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I think the 2.0 is aluminum block, so minimal weight penalty, and substantially more power without significant weight penalty. That's what I'd do if I had it to do now.
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Old 07-07-2011, 02:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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10-4 on the 22RE, or maybe the 3800 Bonne engine,
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Old 07-10-2011, 03:06 PM   #25 (permalink)
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4.0 v6

Hey guys, they all sound good, but Im putting in a ford 4.0 v6, from ranger, with c4 trans, 1350/1354 dub, d44 front axel, 9" rear, and all locked up. plenty of power, and if I need more power, don't have to change any thing!
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