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Old 11-28-2011, 07:58 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Yeah.. I was concerned about this. If it deflects (which it sounds like it will), I'll add more material to the bottom.

Isn't your brake an open "C" on either side? Were the "C"s deflecting up at full throttle? I'm hoping the "closed" frame will help but I guess we'll see. I don't mind picking up another sheet of 1/2", sandwiching the lower frame (for a total of 2" thickness) and extending it down to the upper leg brace. I'd like to push on it first to see though.

I actually don't plan to run a full 1/4" at 4ft (I say that now).. I'm looking at 4ft of 3/16" and probably 2-3 ft of 1/4".

Yes, mine is a "C" style and it was flexing at the c's but it was also flexing on the lower die holder.

The closed frame should flex less because there is no leverage pushing the frame sideways.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:59 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I need one Bad! Nice work!
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:03 AM   #28 (permalink)
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so much want!..... im to lazy to draw up my own plans. would u think of offering copies of your plans for sale?
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:16 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Once I'm confident this thing will work, I'll share the DXFs and go back thru with a parts list/part numbers.
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:37 PM   #30 (permalink)
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is the reason you are making a laminated machine is because your cutter cant cut the thickness you need, or does the upper die need a cavity to slide up and down in?
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:33 PM   #31 (permalink)
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So after seeing this thread you inspired me and I decided to try and design a smaller brake I came up with this it has a 37" window. I will have to farm out the main frame but the rest i can cut on my little 2x4'

I hate to thread jack but I figured Id post it up.

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Old 11-30-2011, 03:52 PM   #32 (permalink)
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BAMF.. That's a "Mini-me" Press Brake..

North Shore.. Couple reasons I did a laminated setup.. By using 1/2" for the center plate, it matches the 1/2" thick rib on standard press brake dies. That allowed the big "punch plate" to be 1/2" thick.. making it easy to setup the punch holders to hold the upper punch. Also allows an easy way to have the whole punch setup slide up/down in a channel and easily line up with the lower die.

I could've used my 1250 to cut up to about 1" plate but I would've had to "edge start" and would've had to drill a shitload of bolt holes by hand (renting a mag drill).

By doing multiple thinner plates, I was able to plasma cut all the holes. Yeah.. it's gonna take a lot of welding to get everything done but I'll do a little bit at a time. I'll also let my son get a lot of welding practice in by filling all the Rosette Holes.. I want him to feel a sense of "ownership" on this project..
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:11 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Just an idea to save space, if someone is short on room--instead of having the ram mount off to the right side so far, you could extend the left-side bellcrank taller, and attach the ram to the top of it, above the tie rod.

At least, it works in my head....
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:14 PM   #34 (permalink)
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So after seeing this thread you inspired me and I decided to try and design a smaller brake I came up with this it has a 37" window. I will have to farm out the main frame but the rest i can cut on my little 2x4'

I hate to thread jack but I figured Id post it up.

Where are you located in Northern California. I'm in the bay area if you need some cutting done,I have a 5x10 table. It would be fun to do.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:39 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Just an idea to save space, if someone is short on room--instead of having the ram mount off to the right side so far, you could extend the left-side bellcrank taller, and attach the ram to the top of it, above the tie rod.

At least, it works in my head....
Interesting.. wonder how that would affect the "connecting link".. putting it in tension versus compression when bending?.. would definately want quality heims.

All other things being equal, it would shorten the up/down throw of the punch but increase the tonnage.. does that sound about right?



I'm currently waiting for my bushings to come in so I can fit them to the pivot tubes and order pins. This upcoming weekend, I'm gonna trying to pull the "bow" out of the punch plate and begin welding on it.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:43 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Interesting.. wonder how that would affect the "connecting link".. putting it in tension versus compression when bending?.. would definately want quality heims.

All other things being equal, it would shorten the up/down throw of the punch but increase the tonnage.. does that sound about right?
Yep, that's how I see it. I figure it's probably really easy to get a cylinder just a little bit longer if need be. (if you're using 100% of the throw already)
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:41 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

this is awesome can't wait to see some pics of this in action
makes me want my own
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:26 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Looks really good! Watch the "flatness" of the laminated parts as you weld them together. A lot of heat is going into that part.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:59 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Looks really good! Watch the "flatness" of the laminated parts as you weld them together. A lot of heat is going into that part.
I know.

The main frame is actually bowed about 1/4" at the moment. I'm gonna lay it on its side to flatten it out and then weld the ends of the outer plates in place to hold it flat initially. I'll then jump around while welding everything up to keep from overheating any one area. I think I can keep it farily flat if I'm careful.
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:25 AM   #40 (permalink)
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BAMF.. That's a "Mini-me" Press Brake..
Yeah your size brake would be too large for my little shop hell you could put this one in yours but I would like a nice brake so I figured 37" would be plenty for my shop.
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:02 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I know.

The main frame is actually bowed about 1/4" at the moment. I'm gonna lay it on its side to flatten it out and then weld the ends of the outer plates in place to hold it flat initially. I'll then jump around while welding everything up to keep from overheating any one area. I think I can keep it farily flat if I'm careful.
What do you do if it doesn't stay flat after you get it welded? That's going to be a real bastard to straighten out once the layers are welded together. This is the point where I usually let a project sit and simmer for a few days as I think about every possible way that I'm going to screw up $800 worth of material.

Edit: BTW, this thing is really cool and if it all works out I'm going to copy it on a smaller scale as well.

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Old 12-01-2011, 10:45 AM   #42 (permalink)
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BESRK,
Do you know what this will cost you VS a used 48" press brake? (Ballpark figure)

I looked around on google, and it appears that 48" press brakes are expensive!
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:25 AM   #43 (permalink)
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What do you do if it doesn't stay flat after you get it welded? That's going to be a real bastard to straighten out once the layers are welded together. This is the point where I usually let a project sit and simmer for a few days as I think about every possible way that I'm going to screw up $800 worth of material.
I can actually "bend" it slightly by hand since it's so long.. so it won't take much force to straighten 1/4" over approx 8ft of plate. If I lay it with the bow facing up, supported at the ends, I should be able to get it pretty straight. I'll then weld the outer plates at either end. That will hold it in place. I'll then weld the plates together carefully.. avoiding too much heat in any one area.

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BESRK,
Do you know what this will cost you VS a used 48" press brake? (Ballpark figure)

I looked around on google, and it appears that 48" press brakes are expensive!

I think I'll be in for about $4000 or so when it's finished. That's with new dies and a new hydraulic system. Most used stuff I've seen that's capable of bending 3/16" and 1/4" in 4ft lengths is at least twice the price.. and heavy enough that shipping is hindered.

Plus, this type of project is fun..
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:31 PM   #44 (permalink)
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What about possible welding some "ribs" in to help keep it flat?
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:39 PM   #45 (permalink)
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If I notice it starting to bow during welding, I may do something like that. I've got a nice piece of cold rolled flat stock to use as a straightedge for checking the flatness. I verified the bar is straight by holding it up to my "precision ground rails" on the plasma table..
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:04 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:10 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Worked on that warped main punch plate today. I used a bottle jack and some chains to pull it straight and then welded one of the outer plates in place. The plate originally had a bow of about 3/4". Once I welded the outer plate in place, it was actually pulled back too far in the opposite direction by about 1/16". I'll fix that when I weld the opposite outer plate in place.

Here's the one outer plate in place..




Here's my straightedge laid up against the plate.. you can see how it pulled it up just a bit too far at the ends.. I'll take care of that when I do the other side..


Really enjoying this Hobart Ironman 230..
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Old 12-04-2011, 02:53 PM   #48 (permalink)
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That's all I got. Just cheering you on Eddie, really nice work. Looking forward to this coming together for you.
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:29 PM   #49 (permalink)
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just found this little guy on ebay. WAY over priced could make it out of scrap. should give the guys with the small machines something to aim for. very simply

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-inch-24-w...5#ht_687wt_936
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:32 PM   #50 (permalink)
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just found this little guy on ebay. WAY over priced could make it out of scrap. should give the guys with the small machines something to aim for. very simply

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-inch-24-w...5#ht_687wt_936
ha, i wonder if the guy would let me swing by and checked it out. may not be the price id be willing to pay but the size would do well for most my needs.
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