48" Press Brake Project

[BESRK]

Reassembled the arms/linkage this evening. The 48" long bottom die (1.5" V) dropped right in place in the bed. The upper punch had the "safety tang" on the spine, so I had to modify the punch holder to accept it. Basically spaced one punch holder plate out 1/8" to fit the wider die tang.

Dropped a piece of 3/16" scrap (46" long) into place and pulled the lever. I just ran the punch down until the hydro system hit the bypass (2750psi). I'll have to do more testing but the work piece probably hit 90deg well before the hydro system stalled.

Here's the new dies and the piece that I bent...




It actually bent slightly past 90deg. I sighted down the edges and it looks like it may have canoe'd about 1/16" or so in the center. If need be, I'll add more material under the bed and shim the lower die a bit to level it out.



All in all, I'm pleased with the results so far. I plan to play around with it more this weekend. I really want to try 36" of 1/4" in the 2" die.. I'm tired of welding winch plate fairleads/ribs to the plate.. I wanna cut the stuff on the plasma table, pull the handle a few times, and slap a Fedex label on it..

[BESRK]

Was able to do a test bend on 36" of 1/4". Overall, it did okay. I can see movement in the bed area when it's under a heavy load. I still need to fully weld that area and then I think I'll add some more material below the bed area. The test piece turned out pretty good though.

Test Bend 36" if 1/4" - YouTube

[S1036s]

Very nice work. I may have to get the file from ya for the frame. What are you planning for a back gauge?

[Benderart]

Nice work mate....thing's got a bit of grunt.

[BESRK]

Originally Posted by S1036s

Very nice work. I may have to get the file from ya for the frame. What are you planning for a back gauge?

Something similar to the Iriquois back gauge. Precision Acme thread cranking the gauge in/out.. combined with a simple DRO.

[S1036s]

Id like to know how much you are into it after the back gauge. Including dies... I know those are not cheap.

[BESRK]

Originally Posted by S1036s

Id like to know how much you are into it after the back gauge. Including dies... I know those are not cheap.

Before the back gauge, I'm in about $5500-$5600 (including dies). I'm figuring about $300-$400 for the back gauge.


I added the price breakdown to the bottom of the first post..

[JohnC]

Dave,

Nice thing is you're already setup with this stuff:

5hp 220v1p Motor.. $380 (Northern)
Log Splitter Valve..$80
Stroke Control Valve.. $150
10gal Reservoir..110
Strainer..$20
13.6gpm Dual Stage Pump..$160
Couplers..$55
Hydraulic Lines and misc fittings/adapters.. $350

[S1036s]

Yes, and I may try to cut it from 1" to save some time with the welding. That is why I have been hoping everything worked for BESRK. Keep us posted...
Once that bottom is all welded, Id like to see how the bends turn out.

[TRUCK_RAT]

besrk
why did you choose the 1/4+1/2+1/4 inch sandwich for the main body. is it a cutting capacity issue or a strength issue
would the sandwich be stronger than a solid sheet of 1 inch.

not trying to be a smart ass im just a newb

[North Shore Fab]

Originally Posted by TRUCK_RAT

besrk
why did you choose the 1/4+1/2+1/4 inch sandwich for the main body. is it a cutting capacity issue or a strength issue
would the sandwich be stronger than a solid sheet of 1 inch.

not trying to be a smart ass im just a newb

a noob that cant read

cliff notes:
gave his son practice on welding
needed bolt holes precise and didn't have a mag drill
Could not pierce 1 inch plate.

think after it was all said and done he wished he farmed it out. i would think with as much weld is on that thing its just as strong as a 1 inch plate.

i too am waiting and chomping at the bit for this to get fine tuned so i can get going on my own.

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

Originally Posted by North Shore Fab

a noob that cant read

cliff notes:
gave his son practice on welding
needed bolt holes precise and didn't have a mag drill
Could not pierce 1 inch plate.

think after it was all said and done he wished he farmed it out. i would think with as much weld is on that thing its just as strong as a 1 inch plate.

i too am waiting and chomping at the bit for this to get fine tuned so i can get going on my own.

[BESRK]

After bending the 48" of 3/16" and the 36" of 1/4".. I would say the bends are acceptable "as-is".. with very slight canoing in the 3/16" and "almost none" in the 1/4". If the 3/16" were a pair of rock sliders, I'd have no problem bolting them onto my rig.

I don't regret building the thing from laminated plates.. It was the most effective way that I could do it and keep everything "in house". I'm a DIYer.. I don't like to send stuff out. I had more time and "free labor" than I did $$$.

I laminated with the 1/2" center plate because it matches the thickness of the "spine" on standard press brake dies. That allows the dies and punch plate to be easily aligned with each other by simply clamping them between the guide plates. However, it really wouldn't be difficult to juggle guide plates around to work easily with a single thick main frame. If I were going to laminate again, I'd probably step up to 3/8" plates for the outer plates.. for a total thickness of 1.25".

However I probably wouldn't laminate if I were to go back and do it again. I'd go ahead and cut the 1" plate for the main frame myself with my 1250. I'd just drill a hole and edge start. I'd also just buy a Mag drill to use my annular cutters for drilling the thick plate.
I'd still plasma cut all the holes in the thinner (1/2" thick) guide plates and punch holder plates.. and use those holes to layout the holes in the thicker plate.


I'm satisfied with my test bends. The next hurdle will be wear/longevity. I need to keep an eye on the pivots and linkage system... especially keep an eye out for cracked bushings, galling, or excessive wear. I was kind of worried about the ability of the 1.5" pins to resist bending. However, I've stalled the hydro system on purpose and the pins held.

No problem on any of the questions... they help more than most realize. It's easy to "think in a bubble" when you're alone doing this type of stuff. However, Pirate is a great resource.. especially for pinging ideas off of talented, innovative people. Having to answer questions keeps me thinking critically (about my own work).. especially when I'm trudging in virgin territory on an expensive-assed project.. but as they say, "No guts, no glory!"

[BESRK]

Got a chance to use the brake for something "real". Up till now, I've always cut/welded/ground the fairlead mounts and rear stiffening rib. Now, I can pull a lever twice and toss the winch plates in a pile..

[BESRK]

Another thing I think I'm going to do in the future.. tap into the hydro system with a "diverter" valve and run quick disco lines to my tube bender. I've already got a JD2 (Model 3) with the little 2hp hydro power unit and SPX (single acting) ram, but I've had nothing but problems with the power pack since the day I bought it. It started seeping under the spool block within a week of firing it up.

I think I'm going to mount the tube bender on a pivot arm that swings out and locks in place. That way, I can swing it back against the press brake (under the back gauge) when not in use. I'll run something like a 3"x24" dual acting ram and have power in both "bend" and "retract" for the tube bender.

Initially, I was kind of intimidated by the hydraulic system.. having never really messed with one. After seeing how it works.. I see all sorts of cool projects for it... swing out tube bender, swing out dimpling station, swing out hole punch... a fawken Swiss Army Knife on steroids..

[North Shore Fab]

soooo what your saying is your going to start looking at some edwards iron workers and copy their plans as well???

well get to it.

[BESRK]

I'm not very innovative.. but I'm a hell of a copycat..

[S1036s]

What die are you using on the 1/4 winch plates. 1/8" punch and a 2.5" lower?

[BESRK]

2" lower die.. 1/8" radius upper punch.. both 85deg.

[seanmurphy265]

Originally Posted by BESRK

I'm in about $5500-$6000 so far. Still have to do the back-gauge.. which I'm figuring on another $400-$500 or so.

I'm hoping that this press will pay itself off rather quickly.. like my plasma table did. Got a bunch of projects I'm anxious to try out.

I would think you would have no problem getting work for this machine. I worked in structural steel and for a steel supplier for several years. Lot's of companies pay to have parts bent, and do not own a brake. If you have a rebar plant or concrete construction place near your shop; you have a potential customer. Concrete construction uses tons of bent plates with nelson studs or rebar welded on them.

[BESRK]

I've got some ideas for this brake. However, I built it as much for a "project" (just to see if I could) as anything else. I've been intrigued by the design and have wanted one for years.

Like anything else, once word gets around as to your capability, business usually follows. For now, I'll use it to help me with my fleabay stuff, Jeep bumpers, winch plates..etc.

I'm in no hurry. Like anything else, I want to learn/master this tool before I commit to any work with a deadline.

[BESRK]

Did a little work on the backgauge.

Ordered 3ft of 3/4"-8 (1/2" travel/turn) Acme Precision Thread and flange bearings for the threaded crank system. Also ordered a couple hardened 3/4" rods and linear bearings for the backgauge "guide rods".. along with some locking collars. Total cost at McMaster was about $320 for the small parts.

The back gauge is about 30" from the face of the main frame... I cut the main mounting plate from 1/2" and the rest of it from some 1/4" I had on the plasma table.




Here's the Acme Precision threaded rod with the brass nut and mounting flange. This will be bolted up to the backgauge itself..


Here's a linear bearing. It fits snugly inside a piece of 1.5"x.120" DOM.. so I can weld the backgauge to the DOM and then slip the linear bearing inside (retained by a couple "C" clips).


Hand-wheels are kind of pricey.. so I'm making my own. I cut the wheel from 1/2" plate on the plasma table. Turned a piece of 1.25"x.250" DOM to make a small locating "collar" on it for the wheel.. and then bored the tube to 3/4" ID so it slides over the Acme Thread. I'll drill/tap the tube for a bolt and mill a flat on the Acme thread to get a "D" shape for the bolt to lock the wheel in place firmly. Think I'll powdercoat the wheel Lime Green..

[carslut]

looks freaking stellar!

[jatepper]

As always, top quality work there Eddie! Looking forward to seeing that back gauge in action!!

[bggrnchvy]

Be careful welding that DOM and then putting the linear bearings in there.

The distortion in both the welded assembly in regards to true position of the bores and the cylindric distortion can well be enough to jack a smooth linear guide system up without boring the holes true after. With only .120w you need to be really careful about the heat and you really don't have much wall thickness to fall back on if you need to bore the assembly.

2" .250 would be a lot more foregiving.