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Old 02-13-2012, 11:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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4x4 Water table build

I upgraded my 2' gantry to the 4' and my 2x4 table was not designed to be expanded so I'm building another one.

Specs
60' of .083 wall 2"x4" tubing & 4' of 1.20 wall 2"x2"
3/16" water pan
1/4" slat holders
1/8"x 2" flat bar slats
4 600lbs casters


I went with the .083 wall because of two things I won't be loading anything more then 4'x'4x1/2" plate on the table and it cut the cost in half. I designed it with supports in all the right spots so even a 1" plate should have no problem.

Here is the CAD drawing I cut all the tube and I'm ready to weld it together I just haven't had the time. The gantry should be here in a week so I better get my ass to work








I designed the front section to be bolt on so I can extend it when TorchMate comes out with the 8' rails


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Last edited by B.A.M.F; 02-27-2012 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
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what software did you dfesign it in? diggin it.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
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looks like google sketch up pretty sure its a free program
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah it's Google sketch up I have the pro version but you can get it for free and come up with the same thing. http://sketchup.google.com/
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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ah yes i know that softaware.... looked familiar....never got around to using it.

makes for good visuals
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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10 gal. water pan seems very shallow..how deep will the water be? Hate to see you cut thru the bottom of the pan.I have a 4x4 bolt together and built a 10 inch deep pan but can easily get away with 4 inches of water.You want the water level no more than 3/8 inch from the plate or you won't contain a lot of the airborne carbon dust.Also you can add Borax powder to the water the prevent rust on the submerged steel bed,same theory why the cast iron frying pan in your sink wont rust in the submerged dish detergent water.4 years of cutting, the debris finally reached the water level...clean out next week...get the buckets ready


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Old 02-16-2012, 06:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah I meant 10 Gauge not 10 gal the water pan will be 4" deep.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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holy shit that is a lot of cutting to fill that thing up... how could you spend that much time cutting and still not have an AVHC
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:56 AM   #9 (permalink)
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holy shit that is a lot of cutting to fill that thing up... how could you spend that much time cutting and still not have an AVHC
HA!.....I gots it down to a science and with all the problems I hear you guys complaining about them.....Do I want to open that can of worms?....may be someday...
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:47 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Jerry, what are you doing with the 2x4 water table?
Interested in selling? I'm trying to decide what size table to go with(such a tough decision), and might just start at 2x4 like you did so if you were selling the table it would save me some time.

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Old 02-17-2012, 01:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Jerry, what are you doing with the 2x4 water table?
Interested in selling? I'm trying to decide what size table to go with(such a tough decision), and might just start at 2x4 like you did so if you were selling the table it would save me some time.
I'm planing on chopping it down and making it a welding table if I were to sell it I'd let it go for $350 it needs new slats and some paint.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm planing on chopping it down and making it a welding table if I were to sell it I'd let it go for $350 it needs new slats and some paint.
thanks for the offer Jerry. I decided I'm going with a different size now though so looks like you're gonna have a new welding table.

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Old 02-22-2012, 07:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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if you have 3" slats, doesnt that make the slats the same height (flush) with the top of the table? dont you need a 1" gap under the slats to help clean and remove them?

With the slats flush, wont the water be splashing out. Excuse my ignorance, i have a 4x4 on the way, and am also trying to build a table before it gets here.

On the boarder of the pan you have 2" flat stock surrounding the pan with holes drilled in it, what is the purpose of these holes? Is that how the slats attach? dont they require a groove and not a hole to attach?

kinda stealing your design a little
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Old 02-22-2012, 09:15 AM   #14 (permalink)
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if you have 3" slats, doesnt that make the slats the same height (flush) with the top of the table? dont you need a 1" gap under the slats to help clean and remove them?

With the slats flush, wont the water be splashing out. Excuse my ignorance, i have a 4x4 on the way, and am also trying to build a table before it gets here.

On the boarder of the pan you have 2" flat stock surrounding the pan with holes drilled in it, what is the purpose of these holes? Is that how the slats attach? dont they require a groove and not a hole to attach?

kinda stealing your design a little
My slats sit just under 1" from the top of the frame. The slat notches are on in that rendering I didn't have the time to mess with it and I know they are there. the holes in the front is for bolts the front rail will bolt on so that when TorchMate comes out with the 8" rails I can just build another table just like this one and sandwich them together. The pan will be fully welded in place accept for the front rail.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:50 AM   #15 (permalink)
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got it, so the flat 2" stock on the sides and middle is the slat holders. how deep will you cut the grooves into the slat holders? one inch? I ask, because I was wondering how you could still have 1" from slats to top of the frame, if you are using 3" wide slats. Your walls are 4" tall and you still need a 1" gap under the slats right? That seems like it would make the slats flush with wall height. Im sure Im confused somewhere, I just like the design and its giving me ideas for mine.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:56 AM   #16 (permalink)
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got it, so the flat 2" stock on the sides and middle is the slat holders. how deep will you cut the grooves into the slat holders? one inch? I ask, because I was wondering how you could still have 1" from slats to top of the frame, if you are using 3" wide slats. Your walls are 4" tall and you still need a 1" gap under the slats right? That seems like it would make the slats flush with wall height. Im sure Im confused somewhere, I just like the design and its giving me ideas for mine.
You know Ive been wrong all along the slats are 2"x 1/8th flat bar not 3" I just checked my 2x4 table
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:58 AM   #17 (permalink)
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thanks for the offer Jerry. I decided I'm going with a different size now though so looks like you're gonna have a new welding table.

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Sounds good to me I'm just going to slap a top on this bitch and drop it down and call it good

What size are you going with?
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Old 02-22-2012, 11:38 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Sounds good to me I'm just going to slap a top on this bitch and drop it down and call it good

What size are you going with?
Looks like I'm goin beast... 4x8. So now I need to figure out how I'm going to move full sheets of steel.

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Old 02-22-2012, 11:46 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Looks like I'm goin beast... 4x8. So now I need to figure out how I'm going to move full sheets of steel.

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Old 02-22-2012, 09:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Well I got a wild hair up my ass and started building the table.

Here it is just about all tacked up.




I'm building this one low so it's easier to load sheets and grab parts out of the middle that's a 6 ton HF jack stand.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:15 AM   #21 (permalink)
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You know Ive been wrong all along the slats are 2"x 1/8th flat bar not 3" I just checked my 2x4 table
now it makes sense,

Looks Good

will the water pan be removable or is it welded to the table?
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:38 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Yeah it's looking pretty good I love how low it is I built my 2x4 way too high and loading 1/2" is a pain in the ASS!!

The water table will be welded in.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:08 AM   #23 (permalink)
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i know you built this so you can extend it to 8 ft down the road. on the end of the table that is still open have you thought of how you will attach the other half. if you could cut out that last upright and put in a 2x8 when you add the other half it will have a good surface to sit on and butt right up and if your at all anal it will look semantically when finished
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:13 AM   #24 (permalink)
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i know you built this so you can extend it to 8 ft down the road. on the end of the table that is still open have you thought of how you will attach the other half. if you could cut out that last upright and put in a 2x8 when you add the other half it will have a good surface to sit on and butt right up and if your at all anal it will look semantically when finished
Yeah I was thinking of just building it the same as this one so it will have 2 2"x4" tubes in the middle giving the appearance of a 2"x8"
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Old 02-27-2012, 11:23 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Well I went and picked up the sheet for the water pan and they only had 3/16th in 4x10 so I went with that instead of the 10 Gauge.

I'm getting my 4' gantry tomorrow so I should have some pics of it all done soon.
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