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Old 04-25-2010, 04:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Another water table build

I ordered a tourchmate 2x2 a while ago and it shipped last week. I was tracking it and saw that it was scheduled to be delivered on Monday but was going to be in Fountain right near my work on Friday. I called to see if I could pick it up and they said sure. Can't blame them for not wanting to drive way out east of the Springs. It saved them at least 40 miles one way on the delivery. Forgive the pics they are crappy cell phone pics.

Picked it up and stopped for some good eats at the Tomahawk truck stop in Fountain.


Got it put together, squared up, hooked up the electronics and made it move around a bit. I didn't have any problems with binding or with the setup files. I will say that the horizontal bearings all came undone in shipping and were all over the inside of the crate. I would suggest putting them in the package with the rest of the hardware.


Test fitting what will be the base for the gantry and the top of the water table.


Welding it up.


Added the legs and the sides of the waterpan.


I made some jigs to hold the bottom of the slat supports in place as it gets welded in. Lots of clamps, weld a little at a time.



I was on a roll and didn't take any pics of the vertical slat supports but it was time consuming and tedious. The slats have 1" spacers made from 1" .25" bar stock. I cut them about 1" in length (eyeballed it) and welded them in using my jig for the bottom support as a spacer. Then started cutting out the slats. I need to go get some more 1.5" for the rest of the slats.



I still need to add the bottom of the pan, a drain, silicone it all, add a bottom shelf, wheels, tap into the controls of my Spectrum 375 and a bunch of other stuff. I am still waiting for the mounting plate and manual height adjuster as they were back ordered.

Thanks again Bill for putting a tool like this within reach of an average guy with a home shop.

edit..
Is there any reason that I shouldn't use a rubberized coating like line-x or herculiner to seal up the water pan? It seems like it would make it really easy to seal it all up and prevent it from rusting.
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Last edited by SoundManCO; 04-25-2010 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 04-25-2010, 05:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Lookin good man

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Old 04-25-2010, 07:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I couldn't help but notice that the gantry looks like it is on backwards, I'm not sure if it can be run in that position without changing the configuration setup for the Y axis.

I'm about to build my own water table and am looking at attaching the bottom part of the pan completely with JB Weld, at least thats my plan at the moment. JB Weld or some other epoxy should hold the pan in place and make it water tight.
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Old 04-25-2010, 08:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm thinking about trying an a/c drain pan. Should have the machine this week sometime.
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron678 View Post
I couldn't help but notice that the gantry looks like it is on backwards, I'm not sure if it can be run in that position without changing the configuration setup for the Y axis.
It can be run in this position if desired. In the software, an axis direction can be assigned and reversed very easily.

Water table looks good!
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:32 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLKBOB View Post
Lookin good man

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Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ron678 View Post
I couldn't help but notice that the gantry looks like it is on backwards, I'm not sure if it can be run in that position without changing the configuration setup for the Y axis.

I'm about to build my own water table and am looking at attaching the bottom part of the pan completely with JB Weld, at least thats my plan at the moment. JB Weld or some other epoxy should hold the pan in place and make it water tight.
I did put it on backwards, intentionally. This thing is going to travel and be in public view a lot. I wanted the X-Axis motors in the rear toward where I will be seated when operating it and the side of the gantry with the torchmate logo and mine (very soon) facing the people that will see it. I flipped the Y-axis in the software and ran a couple dxf files through TM3 to create tool paths and it worked great albeit without the plasma cutting anything. I may have to modify the torch holder slightly but I want the torch under the gantry so I can take full advantage of the tool travel. I am still waiting for the mounting plate and the torch holder to be delivered. Once I get them I will work through that portion.

The depth of my pan is 4" total, it will be 3.75" deep with water. The sides are 2, 2"x2" square tube and the base will be a flat 16ga plate. All of that is welded together but I know it will have pin hole leaks and I don't want it to start corroding. I have never used POR before and thought that the thick rubber coating from a bed liner type material would kill a couple birds with one stone. It will seal it up and prevent any corrosion. What I am unsure of is will there be some sort of chemical reaction with the rubber, water, plasma debris that I am unaware of.
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I figured there musta been a reason for reversing it. The 4 inch depth is pretty much a requirement from what I have seen others do. As for caulking, that issue has crossed my mind as well and I feel that an epoxy should do the trick. Store bought Plasma waters are supposed to delay rust, so they say. I find that silicons etc. always let you down after they age, I have used JB weld on various plumbing fixes joining dissimilar joints /metal to ABS etc. and they are still holding many years later.
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