|01-24-2011, 03:48 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2001
Member # 7410
Location: Palisade CO
Figuring out where you are....
Ive had to learn how to cut out some different things lately that dont let me cut a border out of the finished/usable material, so here is what I did.
Made a large square out of 1x1 angle that I can slide into the table and clamp down. I raise the torch up and use a ruler to make sure the y axis is running parallel on the square I made.
Now, we draw the part. In this case, its 4 1.75 circles cut on each side of 2x3 sq tubing that is 36 inches long. The edge of the first circle is 4.75 in from the end of the material.
Then from there I can pull everything out and leave only the circles, which I took over to CAD lite and got ready to cut, ending up with:
I set the square up so I have room to move the torch where I need to with the first cut. Then, since its a circle, and it has to be the same on both sides of the material, I locate it on the steel, and make a square drawing that outlines the circle.
Then the next step is to walk the torch over to the bottom left portion of the square, and zero out the program. Once the program is set, we run a test without the plasma on, and I stop it in a couple of places to measure and verify everything is right.
Once Im happy with the placement, Its time to run it. If everything works out ok, you end up with:
I used the same method on some shelves I built. They were too long to cut, so I had the steel shop shear them, so they had the bookends built in. I was able to cut the right side of six shelves, then flip and turn and do the left side, then break them, ending up with:
I also did the hanger slats out of the 3" strap on the backs of the shelves the same way. Find the zero, run it, flip the piece, run it again.
Anyway, hope this helps. Let me know if I left anything out of confused anybody and Ill clarify the best I can.
|01-24-2011, 05:36 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2004
Member # 26393
Location: Newport News, VA
That's the same method I use for cutting the clevis/receiver holes out of my 2x4 Jeep bumpers. I have a piece of angle that bolts across the end of the table to act as my "stop" for the ends of the bumper to butt up against. I then stack some thick spacers up against the Y side of the table to make my fence.. slide the bumpers in place and cut. Flip them over and cut the other side. Makes dropping the shackle mounts and receivers in place a breeze.. and it's much quicker than cutting by hand with a template.
Once I extend my table to 8' (hopefully this weekend), I'll be able to cut my tapered bumper ends too.. nothing like CNC precision..
Little CJ5 on 35s.
|01-24-2011, 06:47 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2004
Member # 29097
Location: East of Colorado Springs
Thanks Clint! I added this to the how-to's thread.
"Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable."
SunDog Quarter Horses
|01-25-2011, 07:58 AM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jun 2008
Member # 115338
In stead of finding zero the way you do, draw a rectangle representing the size of your square tube and position the lower left corner at 0,0 on your material guide. Draw your circles, make a path on the circles and apply a female tool path, then delete the original drawing including the rectangle.
Export the circles and import them into the driver software. When the configuration screen appears, instead of selecting lower left of tool path on the bottom left of the screen select x, y of import and zero out x and y.
This will place your circles based on the coordinates of the cad software, then all you have to do is position your torch at the lower left corner of your square tube and set program coordinates to zero.
|01-25-2011, 08:22 AM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2004
Member # 35700
Location: Mead, WA
But I still use the bandsaw to cut my tapered ends...
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