My new tow pig thred..

[mike_belben]

Originally Posted by angryblack

My kids call me rythmless nation.. I cant play basketball for snot and cant dance..

now you know why all us honky ass white boys are into wheelin

[angryblack]

Haha, is that what got me into wheelin..

Well i have found what i think will be a decent outdoor work spot..Its about 10 mins from my garage in jersey..Guy says he has a forklift to help unload, cement pad that i can rent two small car sots for 140 per month..I told him 6 months paid in advance to get it outta the way.. Havent talked about heavy work there but i do wanna clean up and prep the sleeper..He said that would be ok..
Headed to pay for the sleeper this week then later pay for the parking and pick up the sleeper with the trailer.

We added u bolts to hold down the box and I think im gonna continue with the box..The family is smaller so its just gonna get a bed out back of sorts and some walls, relocate the hot water heater because the truck is shaking it apart..Then rock on..

Im gonna see how the summer plays out to find a truck to mount the sleeper without having to relocate the rear further back or adding frame rails.

Gotta slow down for a bit because the front leafs need bushings bad..Its starting to pop when im turning corners and shaking bad above 55 mph..Have to price new multi pack leafs from the local place next week versus replacing the main leafs in the two leaf military wraps i have now for a smoother ride. As well as i noticeable rad leak in the core area noticed friday morning..The LPX has a shorter rad at 27" tall than the rest of the trucks so im headed now to discuss a recore and going full rad with my guy..He is old school and still tanks and builds his own stuff..New rad may set me back 600 bucks.Gonna keep it topped off and watch the temps for now..I really dislike using stop leak and the crap out there..

[87manche]

whats the rad made out of? Might see if it can be brazed, but if it randommly sprouted a leak it's probably corroded and the metal is thin everywhere.

[angryblack]

Regular copper/brass.. It started pissing pretty good so i was forced to pour in some of that silver bars leaks stuff..i got two smaller bottles. Poured them in within ten minutes of each other and hit the road..No leaks.

Drove a good mix of highway and local mountain driving and she didnt weep a bit..Made it hard for my rad guy to find it when i got back from peekskill to queens.. He is not sure if its gonna be easy to double the core just yet as he wants to try to find a drop in for the LPX nose that has a full core..The half core just doesnt have enough themal energy to cool the truck off on the hills when im towing my chevy..

I may have to bypass the charge air cooler for a while just to run the full sized rad and later relocate it above the cab or behind the bumper..The damn nose is so short there is no room to put it someplace else. I m may look into mounting the charge air cooler above the engine and venting the hood adding ducts to the sides of the hood to get extra air..

I really dont wanna fix something thats not up to the job..From what ive found out so far is that the 8100 trucks have the body higher from the frame thus have a taller rad, the regular 4700 trucks also have a taller rad due to the decreased slope in the front nose..The LPX truck has a 27" ish tall rad.Makes it kinda hard to find the right one..Hopefully my man Kurt will hook me up with a good part number for a rad that will fit with minimal mods yet keep the truck cool..

[angryblack]

Well i have lost the battle with the box..

We did add some hardware to the cross beams through the floor but the fiberglass floor has started cracking its pretty thick at 3/4" but im finally done..Its just a loose loose battle..It appears that there is a lot of corrosion in the crossbeams and the adhisive they used isn't holding..

Plus there are some new cracks in the gell coat and paint on the drivers side that i noticed,


then under the truck at the far back the cross beams are not glued to the underside of the floor at all..


The above is an area of the corner of the truck where the side and rear under the floor is unsupported.

I lost a tail light from this and the new one doesn't hold too well either.The lighter area by the wire harness used to be some fiberglass which has fallen off.On top of that the cross beam there is pretty rotted..

This is the middle of the underside and i can easily pull the fiberglass they have over the cross beam down.

Im not really wanting to keep repairing this stuff so im gonna pull the windows out, kitchen out and break out the sawzall..Cut the walls right above the floor and rock it as a ghetto flatbed untill i can start on the sleeper..Sucks because other than the short standup height i really love the way the truck has started looking.


So the plan is to remove the fairings on the sleeper..Mount it 2-3" from the back of the cab, try to reuse the peterbuilt seal and have a short 6' flat bed. With some 1 1/2 foot tall side walls and a tailgate that flips down to extend the bed space..Playing with some ideas in my head..

I do know that the sleeper and the bed will be one unit on rails that mount to the trucks frame..Air ride for the sleeper with twin cheapie electric compressors and a 15 gallon air tank i have..I still want a generator under the truck more than likely under the sleeper on the pass side.Some storeage place under the drivers side as well..

My main goal is to gonna be keeping the truck from looking like a baby tractor to keep dot off my ass(they run hard in the paint up here). I wanna be able to pull it all off as one unit to transfer if need be and my needs change.

Sitting down now skecting up some ideas..

[MT4Runner]

Dammit!

I like your idea of a modular rig on rails.

[angryblack]

Something like this.. I came up with the idea of the modularish body because i have limited space to work..Storage area in jersey is ok for light work but im not sure about welding and whatnot..The door to my garage is like 8'2" iirc ..Ive gotta look back at some of Yagers builds to get an idea if the stand up sleeper will fit through the door..I think he built a dolly to roll one of his around.

I do know i want the sleeper on air bags, maybe the self contained mounts from the newer truck that are more like a strut. One at each corner..Then squeeze and old sway bar from a chevy i have under to help it from too much roll. Then mount that onto twin 3x3 1/4" wall tubing with some simple round tube cross members(more than likely 2 1/2" .120 wall scrap from boiler retubes). I may or may not run these another foot past the factory framerails to make the bed longer and build the rear bumper/hitch into them.

For the bed im still up in the air..Really as long as i can keep a small job box on the back for my hand tools at work im good.I do wanna be able to carry stuff and at least a standard pallet of bricks for work, engines axles etc etc..I will never have a goose back there but after the axle may be doable.

Excuse my skectup skillzzzzzz

[angryblack]

Played around with these two..Leaning towards the one with the taller sides..It will work out to about a 5 or 6 foot deck..Thats 8 feet wide on the inside.

I tend to dislike stake bodies and the sides will help keep shit in the bed instead of the roadway.

Tube framed, with air ride for the sleeper..Genny mounted under the sleeper passenger side.If the crapper fits then a 16 gall waste tank there.Pass side storage box. 4" Channel bed with 2" channel cross members, wood deck. tube sides that will be unboltable.Working tailgate..

Any ideas thoughts flames or .......

[RoosterBooster]

ab
sorry to read about all the fiberglass trouble

i do have a bunch of ideas ... but they are maybe over your workspace ability

IMHO fitting the tall Pete sleeper to the "frame hugging" IH cab will be difficult
(especially if your sleeper has the higher cut "raised cab" passage opening)

i personally would raise the IH cab and mount it solid to the sleeper (set it on a shared steel beam) = air suspended the complete structure
i think you could re-use the factory front mounts; the inverted U-shaped rubber mounts should be able to tolerate the couple degrees of miss-alignment of the air suspension motion.

raising the low slung LP hood would give you also more under-hood clearance and radiator space

the factory cab mounts are on a re-enforcing plate that is bolted onto the cab structure; adding a beam in between would be fairly simple.

the sliding steering shaft (depending on year/style) as well as the flexible squirt brake lines should tolerate the height difference.
iirc you have auto ... but if not the clutch rod/bellcrank would also be simple to modify...

why dont you put the generator into the back under the bed like i do on my truck ?!? ;
this way the noise/heat/exhaust are well away from the sleeper and you also shift weight towards the rear axle.
...

[angryblack]

Not sure if i can afford the downtime of lifting the cab..But it all does make sense.. If this storage guy will let me do heavy work running my generator and welding it would be awesome.. Another possible way could be parking the wheeler and trailer there and using the space where it sits in front of my garage..Im sure i could talk to the land lord and always try to leave it looking like a truck.. Raising the hood is super easy..Just looks like I could raise the mounts and rock on.I could get a full sized rad or see if one from an 8100 truck is taller than the 4700 and will fit with some hose rerouting..



I tried to get picks of my cab mounts.. The front look like a simple sandwich style.... Most guys up here who are stretching petes are using these for the pro star bodies all around. http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-66128-G...hu-rd_add_1_dp I'd still have to get the factory IH mounts or make my own..I think four of them would work great and I could always add two more in the middle if needed.. Simple 3x3 frame maybe with a four point mount.. Guess it boils down to if i can find a place to lift the cab without taking three weeks in the barn in ga to try to pull this off.

Definitely something to think about for sure versus building a body with an air ride sleeper..The rear frame body idea appeals to me as i may need this truck for something else down the road..Im still looking into bigger class 7 and 8 trucks to build a long term rv from.Or getting a smaller 24-30 foot commuter bus with a cummins and convert that..Right now im learning from you guys builds and whatnot but getting too involved with this truck on that level may be a bit much..

Musta had a brain fart about the genny..Thats a great idea..I keep forgetting on these lightweight trucks you need to move things back a bit from the front axle.Out back id have more room to soundproof it as well. Run a small tail pipe up behind the sleeper and up away too..

[MT4Runner]

I like the sketch with the rolled tube bedsides, but I agree that higher sides will keep more of your hauled belongings in the bed and not on the street.

Mesh isn't a bad idea, but sheet metal bedsides would be cleaner--fair them in with the back of the sleeper and up from the lower fairing.

[Bustin Loose]

Damn AB, all those cracks suck balls but I'm glad you got the sleeper. I hope things work out better for you now. Whatever you do it HAS to have expanded metal attached somewhere. It's the latest fashion statement from what I understand.

[angryblack]

Yeah im just glad i didnt purchase the fabric i was gonna use..Faux suede and it was pricey..

Im gonna go over the hot water heater and the kitchen and make it a rolling island for the garage so i can wash my hands upstairs..Two 12 gallon drums should be good..

As long as i can squeeze a double bed, microwave, fridge and maybe a tiny sink im good..Crapper would be nice if i can get it to fit under the bed and the bed flip up..

Changed the insurance today to personal use mdt. Flatbed truck pulling a trailer..Only went up 9 bucks a month..

Later on if i can get all the stuff in i may go back to insuring it as a toter home or small rv.

Im really likeing the idea of the air ride cab and sleeper..For me its gonna be one of those start and get into projects. I need to look at the steering column, and whatnot..If i had to i could cut and weld some spline shafts on it..Other than that lifting the cab and not removing it from the truck.. Possiblyif i an lift the cab 12" so i can have room to work Then lower the cab when i leave..Build the frame for the cab air ride and sleeper in the shop then cart it over to the storage place to mount it.

If im gonna do it its gonna be full air and not pivots up front and air out back..I think i can do it but have to mull it over some more...

[Bustin Loose]

Originally Posted by angryblack

I need to look at the steering column, and whatnot..If i had to i could cut and weld some spline shafts on it..

Somewhere in nat_ster's Haul All thread he fabbed up a steering column.

/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1004576-nat_sters-haul-all.html

It might give you some ideas and inspiration.

[angryblack]

Im gonna look into trying to perform the work at my garage in the spot my trailer sits..If i can lift the cab up and keep some wood blocks under it so i can measure and slide the frame under there i may be able to pull it off.Build the frame to bolt the sleeper to as well as bolt the cab to..Then build mounts for the air struts to the frame..I guess if i get in over my head i can bolt it all back together and go with the floating sleeper and hard mount bed...I really dont wanna be down without the truck for no longer than two months..As i hate driving my monte carlo in ny..Too many dumbasses who tag your bumpers and parking dings.

I got a solid price of 400 bucks to recore my rad all the way across..Going to get that done at the same time as well..

If everything goes well i should be starting the work next weekend..

[angryblack]

Forced motorvation today..Had to remove the kitchen stuff..I had so many tools and crap in there it took me 5 hours to get it all out..My garage looks like im a hoarder

Sold three 440 cu in SB2 headed motors, and a set of brodix canted valve head with the top end today..That should clear up some extra cash after the big bills get paid..



On the ride home with the box empty i kept hearing thing bang..Looked back once and saw the damn body slapping the cab hard..So i got a few sawzall blades and went to work..Just gotta hit the garbage dump in the morning..

No turning back now i guess..

[deke]

[spreader]

Originally Posted by angryblack

Forced motorvation today.
On the ride home with the box empty i kept hearing thing bang..Looked back once and saw the damn body slapping the cab hard..So i got a few sawzall blades and went to work.
No turning back now i guess..

Day-Am, you're right handy with a blade. You say the obligatory "I'm gonna cut you bitch"?

[RoosterBooster]

darn .. you dont fuck around ... i like that
too bad your so far away or i would stop by with some cold ones for a " ok ... what now?" brainstorm session

[angryblack]

Well i did actually start screaming like a squealing pig as i cut it up..

And rooster i dont drink beer but i will fly out to hang out and drink vodka..

I think i will be ordering some of the metal in the morning..For the bed its gonna be 4" channel with two in channel for cross members, and 6" channel atop the frame rails.Then some bed frame angle iron for the side panel frame work.

Im gonna have to measure but im thinking the air ride frame will be 3X3 1/4" wall. with some schedule 40 1 1/2 pipe cross members and gussets.

I need to use the truck on the 21st to tow my junk so i will at least have the bed pretty much done and mounted..Leaveing the frame where the sleeper will be empty..

[MT4Runner]

Originally Posted by deke

.

Are you going to leave what is left of the glass for bedsides? That would look bitchin'!

[angryblack]

Originally Posted by MT4Runner

Are you going to leave what is left of the glass for bedsides? That would look bitchin'!

I wish i could but thats the part thats lifting away from the aluminum frame under it..Shouldnt take much more than a high lift to break away the fiberglass section..)

Im thinking of ways that i could use the aluminum frame..It looks like 5" c channel running along the trucks frame rails and small 3" crossmembers..

Dont really have a desire to use it but hell its there..And could work out if i can bolt it all together..Not ready for a spool gun welder just yet to weld aluminum..

But from what i know the pete sleeper frame is aluminum and i do want two rear windows that i may have to frame out

[y2knole]

Originally Posted by angryblack

I wish i could but thats the part thats lifting away from the aluminum frame under it..Shouldnt take much more than a high lift to break away the fiberglass section..)

Im thinking of ways that i could use the aluminum frame..It looks like 5" c channel running along the trucks frame rails and small 3" crossmembers..

Dont really have a desire to use it but hell its there..And could work out if i can bolt it all together..Not ready for a spool gun welder just yet to weld aluminum..

But from what i know the pete sleeper frame is aluminum and i do want two rear windows that i may have to frame out

you know what you ought to do?

find a post-war aluminum camper, and a good deal on a rivet gun... and then...

[87manche]

Originally Posted by y2knole

you know what you ought to do?

Find a post-war aluminum camper, and a good deal on a rivet gun... And then...

win!

[MT4Runner]

Originally Posted by angryblack

But from what i know the pete sleeper frame is aluminum and i do want two rear windows that i may have to frame out

Originally Posted by y2knole

you know what you ought to do?

find a post-war aluminum camper, and a good deal on a rivet gun... and then...

Originally Posted by 87manche

win!

Why did I also have the exact same thought?

RoosterBooster has forever warped our paradigm of aluminum.