Home built trailer Design Q? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

rockbuggy84 · 02-18-2012, 10:33 AM

So after hours and hours of searching and stopping to measure numerous trailers, I still dont have an answer. I want to build a light 24' 2 rig hauler. My idea is to use 2 x 6 x 3/16 as the main frame.

I will build a 24' x 6.5' perimeter with the 2 x 6 tubing and install 2 x 2 x 1/8 tubing cross supports every 16". I will then install 2x8 wood studs for the deck. So my question is if this sounds strong enough to haul 2 CJs on tons.

I was thinking that if the first jeep was loaded backward and 2nd forward, this would put the main weight of them (engine etc) more or less over the axles. This would reduce them trying to flex the trailer between the hitch and trailer axle.

I have seen quite a few heavy duty equipment trailers that use 6" I beam and that is the only design difference vs mine and understand its stronger. But I dont plan on hauling anywhere near what those trailers are rated for.

KS Toy · 02-18-2012, 08:42 PM

Sounds good to me.

SixSped5 · 02-18-2012, 10:44 PM

2x6/2x2 what? Angle? Channel? Tubing? I'm assuming tubing.

I have seen very few trailers with 6" I-Beam (Usually larger), there are a lot of 6" channel trailers out there though. I will do some research, but I am afraid I am not qualified to compare Channel or I-Beam to the strength of tubing.

#rawkon · 02-19-2012, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SixSped5

2x6/2x2 what? Angle? Channel? Tubing? I'm assuming tubing.

.

Thats what we need to know to help.

Bustin Loose · 02-19-2012, 06:38 AM

There are quite a few trailers out here that people have built from tearing down junked travel trailers if that's an option for you. They abuse...err use them to haul scrapped cars and so far look to be holding up okay.

rockbuggy84 · 02-19-2012, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SixSped5

2x6/2x2 what? Angle? Channel? Tubing? I'm assuming tubing.

I have seen very few trailers with 6" I-Beam (Usually larger), there are a lot of 6" channel trailers out there though. I will do some research, but I am afraid I am not qualified to compare Channel or I-Beam to the strength of tubing.

Tubing, sorry didnt post prior.

#rawkon · 02-19-2012, 01:27 PM

I wouldnt try it with tubing. go with channel.

hadfield4wd · 02-20-2012, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by #rawkon

I wouldnt try it with tubing. go with channel.

Why? Wouldn't 2x6x3/16 rectangular tubing be stronger than 2x6x1/4 channel? Just wondering as I've been thinking of redoing my trailer. Make it 26' with 2x4.3/16 rectangular. I just don't know if it'll be strong enough.

rockbuggy84 · 02-20-2012, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hadfield4wd

Why? Wouldn't 2x6x3/16 rectangular tubing be stronger than 2x6x1/4 channel? Just wondering as I've been thinking of redoing my trailer. Make it 26' with 2x4.3/16 rectangular. I just don't know if it'll be strong enough.

This has been my question? I see alot made of C channel but is it really that much stronger? I think 2x4 3/16 would be pushin it at 26' for a car hauler but not sure?

pic_jon · 02-20-2012, 12:51 PM

FWIW... BigTex uses 12" I beam for the frame & neck (with 3" channel cross-members) of their 14k Rated 102" x 20+5 Gooseneck. It weighs in at 4920#.

http://bigtextrailers.com/pdf/product.pdf

If I were to use tubing, it would probably be galvanized simply because it's hard to paint the inside of tubing...

MT4Runner · 02-20-2012, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hadfield4wd

Why? Wouldn't 2x6x3/16 rectangular tubing be stronger than 2x6x1/4 channel? Just wondering as I've been thinking of redoing my trailer. Make it 26' with 2x4.3/16 rectangular. I just don't know if it'll be strong enough.

Biggest concern is hidden rust/corrosion.

Not only is it hidden, but it's more likely. You WILL get water inside the channel, and once inside, it will take quite a long time to dry.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pic_jon

If I were to use tubing, it would probably be galvanized simply because it's hard to paint the inside of tubing...

Agreed. My boat trailer is galv. tubing (as are a lot of boat trailers).

rockbuggy84 · 02-20-2012, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pic_jon

FWIW... BigTex uses 12" I beam for the frame & neck (with 3" channel cross-members) of their 14k Rated 102" x 20+5 Gooseneck. It weighs in at 4920#.

Way overbuilt and not even close too lightweight

http://bigtextrailers.com/pdf/product.pdf

If I were to use tubing, it would probably be galvanized simply because it's hard to paint the inside of tubing...

Not even close to a problem around here

Lets throw the rust, I beam, c channel issues out the window. Is the design strong enough for said purpose?

ryantowry_81 · 02-20-2012, 02:41 PM

this is about the closest build i have seen as to what you are trying to build:

http://www.kaufmantrailers.com/heavy...ailer-p67.html

it is slightly longer but weight wise would be similar, looks like they have 4 6" C channels for a deck and a 6" C channel tounge all the way to the axles.

If you did 6" touge to the axles with the 6" c chanel deck on top with a 4" C channel stringer in a 25ish length i bet you would be structually sound.

just my 2 cents though.

Landman87 · 02-20-2012, 03:00 PM

Sounds like it should work. My heavier equipment trailer have 6" channel on them then the tongue is 6" also that runs all the way back to the axles. Its only a 20 footer also. I'll grab a pic for you real quick. I think where your going to run into your issue is being that long its going to want to torque pretty bad. Here's the pic for reference

hadfield4wd · 02-21-2012, 07:49 AM

Well I hope I'm not hijacking too much. If I could go to 4" I could drop my trailer 6". What I would do would be 4" box, but I suppose I could to channel as long as it was strong enough due to the rust issue. I would then have extensions about 10" width wise to make the trailer wider and drive over fenders. This would be doen with 2"x2" or even 2" channel. with a "hump" for the fender area. This would add strength for the entire length. Then wood in the middle. I don't mind the tube much as my flatbed is all of tube. Rust can't be that big of a deal.

Like this one.

6" is alot to drop my trailer. Going from deck over this will reduce my frontal windage.

hadfield4wd · 02-24-2012, 06:23 AM

anybody?

02-18-2012, 10:33 AM	#1 (permalink)
rockbuggy84 Gettin there! Join Date: Mar 2005 Member # 45202 Location: Galt Ca Posts: 1,407	Home built trailer Design Q? So after hours and hours of searching and stopping to measure numerous trailers, I still dont have an answer. I want to build a light 24' 2 rig hauler. My idea is to use 2 x 6 x 3/16 as the main frame. I will build a 24' x 6.5' perimeter with the 2 x 6 tubing and install 2 x 2 x 1/8 tubing cross supports every 16". I will then install 2x8 wood studs for the deck. So my question is if this sounds strong enough to haul 2 CJs on tons. I was thinking that if the first jeep was loaded backward and 2nd forward, this would put the main weight of them (engine etc) more or less over the axles. This would reduce them trying to flex the trailer between the hitch and trailer axle. I have seen quite a few heavy duty equipment trailers that use 6" I beam and that is the only design difference vs mine and understand its stronger. But I dont plan on hauling anywhere near what those trailers are rated for. __________________ Wheeling before all the dbags made it "trendy" Last edited by rockbuggy84; 02-19-2012 at 12:39 PM.

02-18-2012, 10:44 PM	#3 (permalink)
SixSped5 Wheeler Join Date: Jan 2009 Member # 126806 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 216	2x6/2x2 what? Angle? Channel? Tubing? I'm assuming tubing. I have seen very few trailers with 6" I-Beam (Usually larger), there are a lot of 6" channel trailers out there though. I will do some research, but I am afraid I am not qualified to compare Channel or I-Beam to the strength of tubing. __________________ Jack Miles :: Tampa, Florida :: 2003 Dodge Ram 3500 - QC/DRW - 4x4/SixSpeed - Tow Rig 1978 Mercedes L1116 4x4 - 6CTA Cummins - Hiab 550 Knuckle Boom 1963 Unimog 404 / Doka Hardcab / TurboDiesel / Exocaged / NotMuchStock - Play Rig 1961 Unimog 404 / Soft Top / Flat Bed

02-19-2012, 06:38 AM	#5 (permalink)
Bustin Loose Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Member # 196490 Location: Occupied Territory Posts: 1,675	There are quite a few trailers out here that people have built from tearing down junked travel trailers if that's an option for you. They abuse...err use them to haul scrapped cars and so far look to be holding up okay. __________________ My IDIot Build [url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=14157134[/url]

02-19-2012, 01:27 PM	#7 (permalink)
#rawkon Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Member # 78077 Posts: 1,893	I wouldnt try it with tubing. go with channel. __________________ Don't blame me, I voted against him.

02-20-2012, 12:51 PM	#10 (permalink)
pic_jon $5 Fine For Whinin' Join Date: Sep 2009 Member # 142381 Location: Houston, Texas Area Posts: 856	FWIW... BigTex uses 12" I beam for the frame & neck (with 3" channel cross-members) of their 14k Rated 102" x 20+5 Gooseneck. It weighs in at 4920#. http://bigtextrailers.com/pdf/product.pdf If I were to use tubing, it would probably be galvanized simply because it's hard to paint the inside of tubing... __________________ Project "Lacking Time" Last edited by pic_jon; 02-20-2012 at 01:01 PM.

02-18-2012, 08:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
KS Toy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7938 Location: The Land of OZ... Posts: 3,512	Sounds good to me.

02-20-2012, 02:41 PM	#13 (permalink)
ryantowry_81 Expert Web Wheeler Join Date: Oct 2008 Member # 122722 Location: chicago park, CA Posts: 978	this is about the closest build i have seen as to what you are trying to build: http://www.kaufmantrailers.com/heavy...ailer-p67.html it is slightly longer but weight wise would be similar, looks like they have 4 6" C channels for a deck and a 6" C channel tounge all the way to the axles. If you did 6" touge to the axles with the 6" c chanel deck on top with a 4" C channel stringer in a 25ish length i bet you would be structually sound. just my 2 cents though.

02-20-2012, 03:00 PM	#14 (permalink)
Landman87 Wheeler Join Date: Jun 2011 Member # 192722 Location: Broken Arrow Posts: 223	Sounds like it should work. My heavier equipment trailer have 6" channel on them then the tongue is 6" also that runs all the way back to the axles. Its only a 20 footer also. I'll grab a pic for you real quick. I think where your going to run into your issue is being that long its going to want to torque pretty bad. Here's the pic for reference

02-21-2012, 07:49 AM	#15 (permalink)
hadfield4wd Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Member # 82644 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 2,131	Well I hope I'm not hijacking too much. If I could go to 4" I could drop my trailer 6". What I would do would be 4" box, but I suppose I could to channel as long as it was strong enough due to the rust issue. I would then have extensions about 10" width wise to make the trailer wider and drive over fenders. This would be doen with 2"x2" or even 2" channel. with a "hump" for the fender area. This would add strength for the entire length. Then wood in the middle. I don't mind the tube much as my flatbed is all of tube. Rust can't be that big of a deal. Like this one. 6" is alot to drop my trailer. Going from deck over this will reduce my frontal windage. __________________ [QUOTE=xjdoug;9487015]this is like watching a kid stick his finger in a light socket.... sooner or later he's gonna figure out why the rest of us arent doin it...[/QUOTE] Last edited by hadfield4wd; 02-21-2012 at 07:54 AM.

02-24-2012, 06:23 AM	#16 (permalink)
hadfield4wd Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Member # 82644 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 2,131	anybody? __________________ [QUOTE=xjdoug;9487015]this is like watching a kid stick his finger in a light socket.... sooner or later he's gonna figure out why the rest of us arent doin it...[/QUOTE]

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