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Old 03-10-2012, 02:53 PM   #226 (permalink)
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Real cowl vents are fantastic. The crappy little slits that have been in every vehicle since the 60's don't even come close. In my '55 I could open that and have a cool wind blowing through the whole car without the noise of the windows.

What year bus are you looking at? I have driven a ton of school buses and honestly, from the crappy old 5.9's to the brand new MaxxForce 466's, they all seem like they have the same power. In fact with that exact comparison, there's an uphill onramp I take all the time and the nice new DT gets to the top 2mph faster than the old 5.9. It might be a gearing thing but they both go 70 sooner or later. We also had two buses that were identical, both 5 speed Internationals, but one had a DT360 and the other a 466... again, no scientific tests, but they seemed to move about the same.

A non-lockup auto is also guaranteed to get bad mileage, and I'm not totally sure how MDT lockups operate going over hills. They get good mileage on flat ground but in my experience, especially with the ones behind Cats, they like to "shift" by going out of lockup to give you a little more power.

Another thing with the flatnose buses is that they do a lot of stuff pretty weird to cram that motor in there. The motors might be the same but I think it'd be a lot easier to adapt a conventional chassis to that cab.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:19 PM   #227 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bustin Loose View Post
Oooh, please document/pic/post this process as you work on that cut out/pass through....
BL
this pass-through will be fairly unusual in its construction mainly because i`m going with a solid connection to the back (no rubber booth)
so i dont know if it is usable info ... but i will post pics anyway

in my Van i already installed the same style seats that i want to use in the DiamondT ,
so i grabbed one to mock up the seating position



the height is simply perfect ! i can use the original "snap in" floor brackets of the seat direct on the stock floor.
so there is no need to drop the floor (what saves me a lot of work)



very comfy! ... i`m actually too far away from the firewall
the steering wheel is huge (22" ...there was no power assist). it will be replaced with a 18" wheel



the seat back is sticking out of the pass-through, but my head is still inside the cab
(the opening cut is raw ... final cut will be a little larger, so there will be plenty of headroom)



it even passes the critical "frontal drinking test"
(note; no animals have been harmed conducting this test)

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Old 03-10-2012, 07:27 PM   #228 (permalink)
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Not fitting any air seats into that cab huh?
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:47 PM   #229 (permalink)
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Not fitting any air seats into that cab huh?
nope.... there is just no room for air seats

that is the reason why i`m going with a full "air ride" body like i did on my Pete.

it adds some weight and complexity (subframe & air plumbing)
... but on the other hand this way i dont need to mess with rubber boots and complex body mounts to deal with the chassis flex
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:12 PM   #230 (permalink)
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One thing I've thought of doing is just dropping the floor under the seat base, so it's recessed. Unless you're going to mount the cab closer to the frame than it was originally.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:14 PM   #231 (permalink)
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Rooster---You're fearless cutting back of cab like that. In some circles it is even a capital offense. Looks like you got it all under control tho.
Machinos--you ever drive a conventional Mack with the vent in the leading edge of the roof? Centered and right behind the three marker lights. One of the best ideas EVER in a truck. Flips both ways for 'air in' or air out'. Every truck should have those.
'Hay haulers' in the Sacramento valley used to lower the floors in their cab-overs about 3 or 4 inches. Still would have full range of motion in the air-ride seats but sit real low in the cab. For that 'coolness' and 'stylin' factor. All you would see was their heads and the window line.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:49 PM   #232 (permalink)
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One thing I've thought of doing is just dropping the floor under the seat base, so it's recessed. Unless you're going to mount the cab closer to the frame than it was originally.
hmmm... good idea

but even if i get the air ride seat down to the same height like the fixed seat i still have no room for the actual movement of the seat.

a air ride cab will not be the same "magic carpet ride" like a air seat, but my logic is that a air cab is a better ride for everybody (including the dogs stretching out on the floor)
it would also be a better ride for the old DiamondT body



btw
here are a couple pics to show how i plan to "extend" the back without loosing the classic, well rounded cab look;

i will need to trim the rough hole until the opening lines up with the inside door frame skin



then i plan to bend a ~ 16 inch wide (12-14 gauge steel) inverted "U"
and weld it to the door frame as well as the outside skin at the opening,
so that it sticks out even more then this mockup ;



eventually the opening will be down to the floor , i just left the lower part there for now so that the cab keeps its shape
(notice the big cutout that the FD guys whacked into the lower cab )



then i will hide the "extension" into the back body with the stacks ;



horrible mockup ... the real stacks will need to be taller but that was all i had laying around
i`m thinking to may only use one stack for the engine
and plumb the generator exhaust into the other to keep the fumes out of my campsite



i`m thinking to add a kinda "roll cage" to connect the "extension" pass-through to the back body structure
... maybe framing the opening with 2"x6" tubing so it hides in the wall ?!?
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:16 PM   #233 (permalink)
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what does the interior floor look like (when finished)? are you going to do some kind of center console? Seems like it would be pretty deep if you did. Maybe things like inverter or stereo amp that you really dont need to get to often could go in the very bottom and then have a multi layer storage like from a one ton pickup.

Have you decided on finish for interior like carpet or redoing the dash, sound dampening etc?

Always like the idea of having an old truck for a hauler or RV but the cabs are just tiny compared to modern trucks and finding a crew cab or cab and a half is like pulling hens teeth.

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Old 03-11-2012, 08:57 AM   #234 (permalink)
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Lookin' good, and after seeing the mock up, I'll go along with the stacks and shut up about the weed burners! (for now). Don't be scared to use 8" ones !! Excellent idea on the generator stack!
I'd bet the hack job cut out in the cab was done by the fire body builder, when they did the body install.
Them goofy floor riders have been lowering the floors on trucks for quite a while, just so they can look like their air ride seat is broken. To me it looks like they are riding on a bag of dicks!
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:48 PM   #235 (permalink)
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Rooster---You're fearless cutting back of cab like that. In some circles it is even a capital offense....
lol ... i was kinda nervous until the first cut ...

i will save all the parts that i dont need (front axle & suspension, steering box, stock bench seat , frame horns with towhooks, etc ... )
and put them on ebay and CL ... maybe somebody that is restoring a DiamondT is happy to get the parts.
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:37 PM   #236 (permalink)
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what does the interior floor look like (when finished)? are you going to do some kind of center console? Seems like it would be pretty deep if you did. Maybe things like inverter or stereo amp that you really dont need to get to often could go in the very bottom and then have a multi layer storage like from a one ton pickup.

Have you decided on finish for interior like carpet or redoing the dash, sound dampening etc?

Always like the idea of having an old truck for a hauler or RV but the cabs are just tiny compared to modern trucks and finding a crew cab or cab and a half is like pulling hens teeth.
yeah, there would be no way for me to fit the cab comfortable without removing the backwall ...
and my cab is one of the larger ones of that time

but now with the cut i ended up with an amazing ~64" from firewall to back of seat.
at the hips the cab (and opening) is exactly 60" wide, what is only 5" narrower then my E-150 van.
i`m very happy with that

right now i`m completely undecided on materials and finish of the interior.
i guess i will need to pick up the leather seats first. (there is a guy here locally that sells them very cheap)
depending on what he has available right now i probably go with tan or charcoal and then pick the upholstery materials to go with them.

floor will be just flat and open.
i can not do a center console; i need that space so that the passenger can squeeze to the back during travel.

i want to keep the dash as "vintage" as possible ; all the modern things like speakers, head unit, amps, XM, i-pod,... will be hidden
i`m thinking of adding a low profile overhead space between roof and sun visors, so that the flip-up visors cover most of the electronics.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:07 PM   #237 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoosterBooster View Post
i want to keep the dash as "vintage" as possible ; all the modern things like speakers, head unit, amps, XM, i-pod,... will be hidden
i`m thinking of adding a low profile overhead space between roof and sun visors, so that the flip-up visors cover most of the electronics.
I struggled with this for awhile with the CJ-10.

Ended up throwing some "modern" gauges with the "classic" big center gauge.

I loved the stock military stickers, so I kept them. Just taped them off, sprayed the dash, and untaped them. Worked great. Don't think it will be back to an airfield soon, but if it is, I have the light patterns on my dash









I decided to run my phone as a "stereo" and plug it into a hidden amp for something to listen to.

Nothing wrong with a classic steel dash.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:10 PM   #238 (permalink)
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Not going to T it with the rear cut out between the seats so you can actually walk back there? I always thought the early sleepers where you more or less just climbed through a daycab's back window were a bit silly.
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:39 PM   #239 (permalink)
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There are some companies that will rebuild vintage gauges with newer workings and/or make new gauges look vintage. The speedo in my F-5 cab is cool as hell (no pic, but it's got a great look and has printing on it telling you when to shift the non-synchro trans and 2-speed rear), but obviously it wouldn't work with any non-original configuration.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:42 PM   #240 (permalink)
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Not going to T it with the rear cut out between the seats so you can actually walk back there? I always thought the early sleepers where you more or less just climbed through a daycab's back window were a bit silly.
as i already posted () the finished opening will be all the way to the floor ...
i just left that back section for now so that the cab does not fall apart

btw
pulled the cab out of the shop to get back to work on other things ...
i can not really start "building" anything on the cab until i have a chassis for it

this one would be just about perfect ;
http://www.commercialtrucktrader.com...4700-102097761
... if it was any closer and not in frigging Florida
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:14 PM   #241 (permalink)
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Nothing wrong with a classic steel dash.
that looks nice ...
yeah, nothing wrong with a body color painted steel dash ...
so i guess mine will be red with black and chrome
i like the old fashioned pull switches and push start button ... but i need to somehow add a couple things like air park brake and IGN key
(are there no keys in fire trucks to avoid errors and confusion ?!? ...i guess that would make sense)

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There are some companies that will rebuild vintage gauges with newer workings and/or make new gauges look vintage.
yes, i have the original DiamondT lettered speedo ... but for now i dont think i can afford to have that rebuild/customized
so my idea is to run a small digital speed display (maybe hidden behind smoked glass and framed to look like a decor piece ?!?)
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:31 AM   #242 (permalink)
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You can get vintage-looking modern gauges that are affordable (just kind of "generic vintage", wouldn't look like Diamond T) that are pretty reasonable. I'm not positive how they work but I think generally you just find something that gives a speed output, like maybe a cruise control sensor, and then calibrate the speedo by driving a measured mile.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:15 AM   #243 (permalink)
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your sheetmetal skills make me jealous.

carry on sir.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:20 AM   #244 (permalink)
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Realized I forgot to reply... found here, seems to be for sale: http://www.weimarauto.com/inventory/...3-77363650684b
I emailed these guys to see what they wanted for it. They replied that they are taking bids. The standing bid right now is $15,000.00 !!!!!
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:22 AM   #245 (permalink)
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I emailed these guys to see what they wanted for it. They replied that they are taking bids. The standing bid right now is $15,000.00 !!!!!
I know of one sitting and rotting away, I really should stop and see about it someday.
I pass it everyday going to work.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:24 AM   #246 (permalink)
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i like the old fashioned pull switches and push start button ... but i need to somehow add a couple things like air park brake and IGN key
(are there no keys in fire trucks to avoid errors and confusion ?!? ...i guess that would make sense)
No ignition key is not necessarily a 'fire truck' thing. I drove a 1972 Pete (small window big hood model 359) fuel truck & trailer without an ignition key. Flipped a switch & hit the start button. I liked it that way.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:33 AM   #247 (permalink)
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Some of the motorcoaches just have a key for the battery shutoff switch's compartment, which I think is silly because then you have to shut that switch off for it to be really secure... otherwise someone could smash a window and drive off with it. I suppose fire trucks were only ever parked inside and didn't have to worry about that though.

One of the coolest truck mods I've seen was a switch to kill (and restart) the motor without having to touch the ignition switch. A guy on DTR put one in his Dodge so he could shut it off for drivethrus, etc. without resetting his stereo and everything.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:09 AM   #248 (permalink)
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No ignition key is not necessarily a 'fire truck' thing. I drove a 1972 Pete (small window big hood model 359) fuel truck & trailer without an ignition key. Flipped a switch & hit the start button. I liked it that way.
yes, i also like how Peterbilt has individual switches for IGN and starter.

a driver that delivered sand to me with a Pete dumptruck and a Pub trailer had a waterproof starter button wired next to the Pintle hitch.
after dumping the Pete he reversed it close to the trailer, killed the IGN in gear, walked back to lift the Lunette and "bumped" the Pete with the starter into the hitch

i guess when you work alone you get creative (i just hope he never forgets to shut off the IGN )
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:14 AM   #249 (permalink)
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I emailed these guys to see what they wanted for it. They replied that they are taking bids. The standing bid right now is $15,000.00 !!!!!
... damn, that is unreal
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:42 AM   #250 (permalink)
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a driver that delivered sand to me with a Pete dumptruck and a Pub trailer had a waterproof starter button wired next to the Pintle hitch.
after dumping the Pete he reversed it close to the trailer, killed the IGN in gear, walked back to lift the Lunette and "bumped" the Pete with the starter into the hitch

i guess when you work alone you get creative (i just hope he never forgets to shut off the IGN )
That's really clever! I'd be worried about strangers pushing it though.

One time I was picking up an old car from a guy who had it in storage. It was supposed to run and drive but it didn't want to start that day, some kind of wiring problem that hadn't been there the last time he'd run it. It was in a place where I couldn't get the trailer to winch it out, and we weren't able to push it over a hump outside the storage. I had him operate the car while I stood on the bumper with the hood open and jumped the starter with a huge screwdriver. He was pretty impressed
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