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Old 03-06-2012, 06:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Aggie007 - Drive Over Fenders

I started widening my trailer and building driver over fenders today. I just bought a bender and the bend-tech software and needed a project to get me familiar with the new tools before I start the chassis. I plan to cover the top with 3/16" plate.


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Old 03-06-2012, 07:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Why so much clearance between the top of the tire and the tube? There can't be that much travel in your suspension. I'd lower them down as close as I could before they hit. My stock fenders are only about 2" above the tires on my trailer.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Why so much clearance between the top of the tire and the tube? There can't be that much travel in your suspension. I'd lower them down as close as I could before they hit. My stock fenders are only about 2" above the tires on my trailer.
Travis..
There is 3.75" of space between the top of the tire and the bottom of the DOM. The springs are under the axle so the trailer sits lower than normal, the previous owner used to tow race cars with it. There is 3" between the frame and the top of the axle, so I made the fenders a tad taller incase I messed up my bends, but they came out as planned. The top of the fenders to the deck will be 14" tall, and the slope is 45deg so I wouldn't imagine any vehicle that wide will have any problems driving over the fenders. Is there real gains by lowering the fenders? I don't want to rework what I started, but if I will benefit from it then I will.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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harder to pull a dead vehicle over the fenders being that there taller and also if you ever have to tow a car mostly the door wont clear the fenders when you try to open it...just my 2 cents

edit: looks like you might be able to just shorten the ends and move it down with out scrapping the tube you've already bent

Last edited by Ranger5.0L; 03-07-2012 at 05:39 AM.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I built something similar on my flatbed.


Build details here;
http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23039
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Looks pretty good to me. You could lower them an inch or two but in the end, I don't think it makes a big difference for functionality. As for pulling a dead rig on it, you're still pulling it at the same angle of approach. The only difference is another couple inches of height. I don't see any issues with it. You will probably have a winch at the front of the trailer anyway. It seems like more of a cosmetic difference than anything else IMO.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm very interested in drive over fenders. I wish I could build a set for our trailer. I'll be following your build, especially of you are using bend tech.
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Last edited by Aggie007; 04-07-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Looks good.

Any idea of how much weight you are adding to the trailer with the pipe and 3/8 plate?
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy356 View Post
Looks good.

Any idea of how much weight you are adding to the trailer with the pipe and 3/8 plate?
you mean tube and 3/16?

#200 maybe?
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Its seems like 1/8" plate would be more than strong enough.
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I used 1/8" strap to fill between my tube fender. More than adequate.

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Old 04-08-2012, 07:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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the fenders on my 12k skid steer trailer are just 1/8" diamond plate, rolled on the edge to form a lip; no "structural" tube of any kind. i transport farm tractors all the time with one, or both rear wheels right up on the fenders. ive never had an issue, nor do the fenders show any sign of damage/wear/beds.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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^^^

Mine are the same way - while these builds are well done, I think they are seriously overkill.

I've driven all sorts of shit on these fenders and nothing moves-
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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you mean tube and 3/16?

#200 maybe?
Quote:
Originally Posted by smewhtguy View Post
Its seems like 1/8" plate would be more than strong enough.
I have the exact number on my computer at home and will post it up.

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^^^

Mine are the same way - while these builds are well done, I think they are seriously overkill.
Nothing is overkill when it comes to safety and longevity.

Here is some updated pics. I ended up using 1/8in plate to cover the tubing, diamond over the fenders and smooth everywhere else. I welded on a receiver hitch so I can add a removeable winch later on and I stripped the trailer so I can take it to get it galvanized.




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Old 04-23-2012, 09:22 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I think you just added 20lbs of weld to the trailer, nice work.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:45 AM   #17 (permalink)
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that's seriously awesome!
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:52 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I dig it. Nice work.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Nice job, I just picked up a used 10K bumper-pull last winter and have plans to do something similar. Just went to Moab and my trailer is trashed. Had a last minute funeral and didn't get to repacking wheel bearings and a drunk friend "helping" me load and it now needs some love. I like what you did.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:38 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I think you just added 20lbs of weld to the trailer, nice work.
That is no lie...haha...I know at least 10lbs for sure.

Total weight added was: 103lbs in tube plus 169lbs in plate plus 10lbs of welding wire...so roughly I added 282lbs to the trailer.

Thanks for the compliments!
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Old 05-01-2012, 03:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Nice. Clean job abd you will have a little better traction from the diamond plate in case it's wet/muddy. Nothing like dropping your axle on your own trailer.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Great job and you can never have too much overkill on these narrow trailers and whimpy stock fenders, now a tractor or dually or 20 winch wide tractor tired 4x4 can fit with no prob especially at night or with muddy wheels, great job!!!
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:51 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Looks good, but you really need to learn how stitch welding works. Fully welding all that sheet metal is beyond over kill.
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:56 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Looks good, but you really need to learn how stitch welding works. Fully welding all that sheet metal is beyond over kill.
Only place my original fenders were rusted was between the stitch welds where dirt and moisture had accumulated inbetween the c-channel and the fender.

Also since I am galvanizing the trailer, I was advised to fully weld all seams by a local trailer manufacturer.

http://www.galvanizeit.org/about-hot...alvanizing/faq
"29. If I stitch-weld, will there be uncoated areas after galvanizing?
When stitch-welding is used, there is a possibility of gas release between gaps, which will prevent the galvanized coating from forming in these areas. By leaving at least a 3/32” (2.4 mm) gap between the contacting surfaces, gases are allowed to escape and cleaning solutions and molten zinc are allowed to flow in between the surfaces for a complete and uniform coating."

Last edited by Aggie007; 05-03-2012 at 05:56 AM.
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:05 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Finally had an opportunity to pick up the trailer this past week. I am very pleased with how it turned out. It was a little more than I expected but at least I won't have to mess with it for a while. I went ahead and put new lights, wiring and new brakes on the axles. I am going to reuse the old wood I have and replace it next year or the year after.

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