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Old 07-21-2012, 07:41 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I'll buy one of your old antennas from you if you're selling.
Pm me your address and one will show up. I seriously have 3 or 4 in the garage. I swap radio units, but never replace antennas becase the installation is pretty involved for me. I hate seeing shitty installs with wires, so they usually run through the dash and under headliners and shit. still have a first gen hockey puck on the comanche.
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:55 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Just send it with BL and save the shipping. I won't have use for one until after her roadtrip anyway!
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:12 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Don't forget I'm staying south so I won't be going through MT on this trip.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:48 PM   #29 (permalink)
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heres a quick update from the weekend

Rough Plan of what i want to do (very rough i know im missing stuff)

The plan
-First get layout finalized
-insulate, put up wall studs and run wiring
-more insulation
-put up walls
-put in lights and anything else electronic
-put in cabinets
-wall paper
-put down floor im raising it up to put insulation in the floor
-front will be laminated flooring back will be carpet
-rear doors to close off living space

The goal is to make the living area look like something you would find in a nice toy hauler minus all the exspense. Im hoping to have it done by end of december so i can start working on the buggy, hopefully if i find some sponsors i can run a full 2013 ECORS season with a toterhome and have a buggy that will give the big boys a run for their money.


And some progress
First are some pics when i picked it up rest are of actaul work getting done
Heres the day i got it


My daily driver in the back after picking it up


And some progress made. The previous owner made the sleeping area above the cab larger to fit a queen mattress, since im planning on walling that off so i can utilize that space for cabinets, i first got rid of the extra pieces added. And before anyone ask yes i will have an opening so i can sleep up there.
First pictures still have the extra piece in place the second shows it removed.




If you notice in the pictures you can see the sharpie on the walls where i have started to outline where everything is going to go that whole driver side corner is going to be kitchen cabinets and counters from the fridge around the bend till about 2 ft off the passenger wall. A total of 12ft of counter space and cabinets. I will try to get a drawing of the set up.


heres the kitchen cabinets im looking at, they are unfinished but already put together. So far they are the nicest and best priced ones i have found, if anyone knows of cheaper cabinets let me know i want to keep the same look though where all edges are finished out.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:01 PM   #30 (permalink)
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-insulate, put up wall studs and run wiring
-more insulation
I'm installing ISO insulation boards. They need a 3/4" space between them and the exterior wall and the boards I bought are 1 3/8". That leaves just over an inch gap between the insulation and the walls to run the wiring. I want to do it this way in case vibration works something loose so I won't have to tear the walls apart while tracing and having it repaired.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:32 PM   #31 (permalink)
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That's kind of what I was thinking. Iam going to lay down the insulation (same type the 3/4) then put the faring strips which are 3/4 over that, so the insulation will be pinched between the box and the studs. Then that will leave a 3/4 gap between the insulation and the inside wall as an air space to run wiring and what not. I'm planning to staple the 12 volt wiring to the studs and running all the 110 through electrical conduit.
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Last edited by wheelin352; 07-25-2012 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:51 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I'm doing similar but I'm not running anything in the air space. Heat and cold will leak through the wood so I'm going to tape that all off so everything is sealed properly. I don't want to break it open(unless there's a water leak) so I'm going to run the conduit and anything else in the space between the insulation and the cedar planks on the interior.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:36 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Heres one for ya, from everything iv noticed reading the specs this stuff should work at 12 volt wiring but wanted to run it by you all before taking this route.

Landscape wiring, iv seen it in 14g 12g 10g and 8g, It says that it is for a 12 volt wiring system. Would this stuff work for running my 12 volt stuff in the hauler it comes already paired and costs about 50 bucks for a roll of 100ft. The only thing i would have to do is clearly mark what is positive and what is negitive as it is the same color.

Heres a link to some 12gauge has a spec sheet below.
http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/12lowvocawil.html
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Old 07-27-2012, 08:10 AM   #34 (permalink)
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would not have problems running that landscaping wire. Just be aware that it will not be oil/solvent/heat resistant like automotive wire is, keep that in mind when your route it.

also, there's probably a stripe on one of the wires in the pair or the text is on just one wire, that's your + wire.
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Old 08-06-2012, 04:37 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Fantastic seeing the old girl getting a complete make over! I have many great memories of the initial build with my son. Keep posting the progress. Really makes me miss the Jeep'n days!

Good luck, Scott
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Old 08-06-2012, 04:54 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Fantastic seeing the old girl getting a complete make over!
Thanks for starting this Creamsicle addiction!
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Old 08-11-2012, 06:58 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Its an honor working on the original i just hope to not screw it up to bad. Ive never done any kinda of house building before and am just learning as i go, the guys at Lowes are probably tired of me asking stupid questions, then having to bust out the phone to show them pictures of what im trying to work on.

Finally getting to do some work on it i will post up the pictures tomorrow, the plan is to get the upper sleeping area done and the wall closing it off before my trip to gray rock in october. Dont want my skinny ass rolling off the top.
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Old 08-11-2012, 07:08 PM   #38 (permalink)
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What size wire do you plan to run for your 12V wiring for lights and crap like that?
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Old 08-11-2012, 07:40 PM   #39 (permalink)
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planning on running 12gauge. On one run there will be be 8 or 10 recessed lights like these.


Iv done the math and i have just a little breathing room as far as exceeding what the wire is capable of.

I will try to draw up the wiring plan but there will be 3, 12 volt switches one running the main house lights, a porch light, and recessed lights under the kitchen cabinets. I will have 2, 12 gauge runs going from the power distribution source to the switches; one will run nothing but house lights the other will be split between porch and under cabinets.

One 12volt run to the sleeping area running a single switch for the 2 lights in that room.

Ill have a seperate run for a radio, and then there will be a run for 4 wall lights that will be at each bed/sleeping area.

Thats probably really hard to follow but i will get it drawn out, but im planning on doing it on 12gauge. I actually bought some 12/2 landscape wire today and plan to run it through out in 1/4in wire loom to keep it better protected.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:03 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Also meant to ask, bringing the hauler home yesterday, the speedo wasnt working last time i drove it had no issue, sat for 2 weeks and now nothing. Anyone ever have theres go out, does anyone have a place to start looking.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:58 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Also meant to ask, bringing the hauler home yesterday, the speedo wasnt working last time i drove it had no issue, sat for 2 weeks and now nothing. Anyone ever have theres go out, does anyone have a place to start looking.
behind the dash ?!?
...
serious ; unfortunately the IH dash wiring and even mechanical stuff is usually very crappy
i dont know if you have seen my posts about the Arduino based digital speedo/ tach/ CC/ EGT/ etc my brother is working on.
cheap, easy to DIY (we will share the software ..all the other parts can be found online) and fairly bulletproof ... may invest in replacing your dash with something like that instead buying another Speedo cable
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:10 PM   #42 (permalink)
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The pictures as promised



This box will be a 110 outlet (just realized i still need to run 12 volt for a reading/bed light) but it will be run just a little over to the right and down a bit from the outlet

This is a run incase i decide to run an outside halogen

First walls up


Here you can see how the walls are layered
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:19 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Heres a couple updates, finally got the wall started and most of the wiring ran for the room. Not sure everything is done quite the way others would consider right but hell we all gotta start some where... It works!



Wires ran




And as you can see 36 1/8 became 33 1/8 from my trip from the uhaul to the garage to cut the wall board


And a 110 volt fan to keep air flowing through the room.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:45 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Do you have that fan ducted anywhere? Could you grab a pic if you do, and explain why if it's not?

Looks like it's coming along. I've been planning on how to lay out and build something like this myself, I just need to find myself a decent used gooseneck! (Already have the tow-truck and plenty of space to park a trailer, or I'd probably be looking at u-hauls...)
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Old 09-19-2012, 01:04 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Just have a 6in square vent on both sides of the wall just to keep air flow going.

I like the Uhaul just because it is cheaper then having a full size truck, and paying insurance on a full size truck. I had a 06 dodge ram paid 12k (200 a month payment) and another 1500 for insurance every 6 months, I had a jeep Comanche that was getting way better gas mileage and was a project and enjoyed driving more then the dodge. So I was driving the dodge once or twice a month so each time I drove it, it cost me 225 bucks.

I paid 4k for the Uhaul and it cost me a whole 250 bucks a year for insurance. And I don't have a payment on the uhaul so even if I only use it twice a year it is cheaper then owning the dodge.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:31 AM   #46 (permalink)
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hmm, i hadnt thought about payment and expensive insurance for a truck. that sure makes a good argument for a uhaul. lookin good!
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:52 AM   #47 (permalink)
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hmm, i hadnt thought about payment and expensive insurance for a truck. that sure makes a good argument for a uhaul. lookin good!
being cheap asses is how we all got to Uhaul's.

I bought mine, converted it to a toterhome, and still have way less than the cost of a decent used truck and trailer.
My insurance is $160 a year, and it's insured for way more than it cost to build it. I kind of hope the barn it's parked in burns down, cause I'll have a helluva an upgrade on state farm's dime.
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:47 PM   #48 (permalink)
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hmm, i hadnt thought about payment and expensive insurance for a truck. that sure makes a good argument for a uhaul. lookin good!
I had someone tell me it was stupid to get a uhaul that his truck and toy hauler was the best way to go.

He paid over 30k on an 05 chevy years ago still making payments close to 500 bucks, has a 38ft toy hauler paid 20k on it so hes at 50k plus insurance. I have 4k invested, will probably have close to 2500 in it making it the way i want it intially.

So hes got 50k invested, i will have 6500 invested and i am able to pull 2 vehicles unlike his 1 vehicle. Only thing i would say is his truck may be a bit more comfortable to drive and quitter. I think ill keep my 43k i dont have

Signed Cheap Basturd
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:36 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Alright i got some more pictures after this weekend, but first things first.

Got some stuff fixed and somethings that are still driving me nuts.

Figured out that the speedo sender came loose of the transmission causing me to not have a speedo - check off the list
Wired up the front room and got all 110 and 12volt working

Now heres my biggest problem, the oil leak. It only really leaks when the truck is running, the passenger side of the frame rail is soaked and it seems to be collecting on the starter but cant find where its source is. Iv tried pressure washing the motor but cant get the washer everywhere so i still have residual oil. Any ideas would be looked at in great detail i am at a lose and hate trying to find leaks.
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:53 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Has anyone pulled the oil pan off is there enough room to get it out in the middle of the project with trans already out.
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