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Old 01-22-2003, 09:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Slide in ramp ideas?

All,
Right now I have a skid steer trailer with ramps that stick way up in the air:



I'd like to hack these things off and make a little storage area under the deck for them but I'm unsure about how to attach them when they'll be in use, and how to lock them in when they're in transit.

Right now, these swing on what looks like a 1.25" solid steel roundstock that goes across the entire back. I'm open to leaving that in place and hooking the ramps onto there, or changing around the rear most c-chanell bar to accomodate some sort of tie in mechanism. I do not think I *need* to have them slide out right from the rear, but ideally, I think I'd like them to slide out, then I can pick them up and drop them onto something at the deck level where they'd stay attached.

Any pics or ideas would be great, pics would be preferred because I don't read so gud.

Thanks in advance,
Bryan
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Old 01-22-2003, 04:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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My trailer has some small diameter round rod hung off the rear C-channel of the deck by an inch or so. Goes from the edge of the deck inboard two feet or three.. something like that, with a space in the middle where there isn't a round-rod.

The Ramps have a hook on one end - nothing more high tech than a piece of angle welded to the end to take a "plain" ramp and add a "C"/U shaped "hook" on the end.

This area drops down onto the rod.. ta-da.

I've been thinking of adding some under-deck ramp storage.

Thinkin' of something as simple as two (or four - two per ramp) hunks of angle welded under the deck like "L" to slide the ramps into.

I'd go side-to-side, I think.

You could also go fore/aft, just make sure you move 'em far enough forward from the end of the deck that you don't hurt your departure angle (laugh, but departure angle on your trailer can be important!).

Weld "tabs" on the "under/forward" end to keep the ramps from going too far forward.

Then use a hitch-pin in the very center to lock the ramps from falling out.

Or, use a pin THROUGH the ramp and the end of the "slides" to lock the ramps in place.. won't even bounce and clang as much that way.
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Old 01-22-2003, 04:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quick question, why do you want to get rid of them? What about sticking up don't you like?

I just built a trailer myself and was thinking that I would do the ramps that way because it might make it easier to back into places while empty, being able to see where the end up the trailer is over my tailgate.

Just curious.
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Old 01-22-2003, 05:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by damon_achey
Quick question, why do you want to get rid of them? What about sticking up don't you like?

What I don't is as follows:
  • the trailer is barely long enough to accomodate a WJ:


    And even though I only have a CJ7 to go on there (more regularly), I like the idea of having room for something larger. IE, FS pickup.
  • The ramps sway like a couple of drunks when I'm motoring down the road.
  • They're also very tall, giving the trailer a larger appearance when being stowed, which just isn't as aesthetically pleasing
  • The ramps are eating into that solid rod across the back, eventually I'd have to do something with them.
  • I'd like to be able to open that up so if I'm having something loaded by fork truck, they can dump two skids on the back there, or whatever. As it is, they can load a skid in front of the fenders, but that's it.

Bryan

Last edited by Oxjockey; 01-22-2003 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 01-22-2003, 05:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally posted by tsm1mt
I'd go side-to-side, I think.

You could also go fore/aft, just make sure you move 'em far enough forward from the end of the deck that you don't hurt your departure angle (laugh, but departure angle on your trailer can be important!).
The only thing I don't want with the side to side mount is having to make a nice HD ramp and then carry it around to the side to put it away. I think if you can just mount it fore/aft you can just pick up the rod end, drop it into the slided, then pick up the other end and push...covering your ears because it'll cause quite a racket!

I agree with your mounting ideas, that would retain the flexibility I want for different width vehicles, also help with angularity/different mounting surfaces.

Bryan
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Old 01-22-2003, 09:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Your flip up ramps now have stands that support the rear of the trailer while loading/ unloading. This is to take the strain off the back of the trailer. Just something to consider. This was designed into the rating of the trailer.
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Old 01-23-2003, 05:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally posted by 70~K5
Your flip up ramps now have stands that support the rear of the trailer while loading/ unloading. This is to take the strain off the back of the trailer. Just something to consider. This was designed into the rating of the trailer.
I thought about building them into the slide in ones. What I don't like about those is they can tear up the surface they're on when I'm loading.

Many people have ramps without the little stands - even with them I had the jack off the ground while I was loading the WJ.

And I don't see how that has anything to do with the rating of the trailer.

Bryan
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Old 01-23-2003, 07:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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One other drawback to side-loaded ramps is that I've had to move the truck/trailer to get them out when parked next to something else. One thing I would do is make them both load from the same side (if you must side-load), mine is this way, and allows me to only have to use one lock on the ramps. I've seen lots of trailers with one on each side, that require two locks to secure the ramps.

Pete
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Old 01-23-2003, 08:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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One other drawback to side-loaded ramps is that I've had to move the truck/trailer to get them out when parked next to something else.
That's a good point.
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Old 01-23-2003, 08:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oxjockey


I thought about building them into the slide in ones. What I don't like about those is they can tear up the surface they're on when I'm loading.

Many people have ramps without the little stands - even with them I had the jack off the ground while I was loading the WJ.

And I don't see how that has anything to do with the rating of the trailer.

Bryan
Let me see if I can 'plain this better. The trailer was designed with those supports at the back when loading. Some trailers come with ramps and no supports, they were designed to load without the supports. It may take a while but down the road the frame will crack or bend from the stresses over the design limit if you get rid of the support while loading. I've seen the same thing happen to tilt equipment trailers that have been loaded off a dirt ramp instead of using the tilt. If you had to carry 2 rolls of steel 8tons each roll on a 48' flat bed. You wouldn't put both rolls in the center of the trailer, even though it's within the load rating of it. You'd pit 1 roll over the drivers and 1 roll over the trailer axles. If you put both in the center of the trailer your axle weights would be OK but it would bend or break the trailer.
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Old 01-23-2003, 09:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I understand what you mean, but I bet the jacks are there to prevent the trailer from laying down completely if it's not hooked up to the tow rig.

I figure they won't be hard to build into the new ramps, with a pivot so they can lay flat for sliding in.

Bryan
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Old 01-23-2003, 12:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You could check it out by taking the ramps off and measure the distance from the ground to the frame at the back and just behind the rear of the springs. Then put the front end of your jeep on the end of the trailer without the ramps there and measure it again. If the measurements drop by the same amount the frame isn't flexing from that amount of weight and you should be OK. And you should be able to drive up on it with no ramps if your front axle is getting traction. That would answer if you need the extra support the drop legs will give you.
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Old 01-24-2003, 02:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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My gooseneck was built by a friend. He made a support frame under the bed from angle iron to slide the ramps into from the rear. There is a door for each ramp. He did a nice job of it. I can send you some pics if you want.
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Old 01-24-2003, 03:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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My gooseneck was built by a friend. He made a support frame under the bed from angle iron to slide the ramps into from the rear. There is a door for each ramp. He did a nice job of it. I can send you some pics if you want.
Please do. Email me.

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Old 01-24-2003, 04:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oxjockey
I understand what you mean, but I bet the jacks are there to prevent the trailer from laying down completely if it's not hooked up to the tow rig.

Bryan
who loads their rig on to their trailer without a truck hooked up to it???? Sounds kinda stupid too me... that trailer could shift around if anything went wrong without the tow rig anchoring it there.

Those jacks are normally there to take stress off the frame, other than that they serve no real purpose. I know when I pull the nose of my Jeep on to my flatbed the tail end of the trailer drops about 5" and that is with axles rated for 6,000lbs each. as tall as my trailer is.. the full weight of the jeep is on the ramps and deck right before it hits the drive over fenders for the rear axles. Thats 4,000lbs of weight right behind the axles. (5,000lb jeep)

Some I beam in the center, two pieces of angle down the side, drill a hole in the end of the Ibeam for one of those bling bling "climbers hooks" rated for 150lbs... the ones you see everywhere. run that through the hole to hold the ramps in. Thats what I am doing someday... moving my 80lb ramps from the deck to the back sucks!
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Old 01-25-2003, 06:28 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Why do you need the ramps? Wont your Heep drive on to the trailer without them, thats what i do when i use a trailer.
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Old 01-25-2003, 09:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Why do you need the ramps? Wont your Heep drive on to the trailer without them, thats what i do when i use a trailer.
Do you ever load your rig in the rain? Cars? WJs?
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Old 01-25-2003, 05:01 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Why do you need the ramps? Wont your Heep drive on to the trailer without them, thats what i do when i use a trailer.
The only problem with this is when you finally need to use the ramps (ie to load a friends car), the damn lock is rusted shut, and the key breaks off in it. At least mine did.

Pete
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Old 01-27-2003, 06:23 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oxjockey


Please do. Email me.

Bryan
Will do. Sorry, didn't check my email over the weekend. I'll send 'em from home tonight.
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Old 01-28-2003, 06:36 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Sent 'em this morning. Could not get online with my home ISP last night.

This setup is nice because all you have to do is open the door, slide the ramps out and set the ends on the lip of the trailer. No carrying them or tying them down. They're always out of the way, and the door could be locked. I just use a pin normally.

Looks like you could shorten those ramps to 2/3 or 1/2 the length they are in the pic.
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Old 01-30-2003, 06:09 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Brian - we don't need no stinking ramps!!
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Old 01-30-2003, 06:14 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Brian - we don't need no stinking ramps!!
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Old 01-30-2003, 11:15 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Bryan, did you get the pics?

When I use my car trailer, I don't bother with the ramps, but I need 'em with my gooseneck. The deck is higher.
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Old 01-30-2003, 11:34 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Bryan, did you get the pics?

When I use my car trailer, I don't bother with the ramps, but I need 'em with my gooseneck. The deck is higher.
I did, thanks very much!

I just haven't had time to d/l and look at them at home.

Bryan
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