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Old 02-21-2013, 09:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Dually wheels on a single wheel truck

I am wanting to run a set of dually wheels and tires on the back of my SRW 97 F350. I have searched, but most info seems to be speculation. So I thought it would be cool to have a thread with actual info, from people who have actually tried it. From what i have found, people do it with 70's and 80's chevys by just installing longer studs. I found one pic that makes me think it wont work on my truck, but I am not sure.

So post up if you have actually tried it, on what truck, and what it took to make it work, or why it wouldn't work and pic if you can.





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Old 02-21-2013, 11:03 AM   #2 (permalink)
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No hard evidence to back it, but a local ford "expert" (self proclaimed) I know says that the F250's rear end is the same as a dually rear and there's no difference in the complete rear end. I somewhat question a few things here, but maybe he is right, the studs on them are unusually long. Try FordTruckEnthusiasts.com
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If we are talking about SRW and DRW pick up trucks, then, no, the rear axles are not the same between the two. The pick up DRW axle is wider than the SRW to allow the inner duals to clear the leaf springs. The bearing hubs and brake drums are also different to accomodate the significant additional offset of the duals.

You can buy DRW wheel adapter/spacers from Arrowcraft Adaptors, Wheels, Duality Fenders and Complete Kits - Arrowcraft :: Helping You Handle the Road for over 30 years! that will allow you to bolt on DRW wheels on an SRW axle. They also sell the spacers for the front as well.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
If we are talking about SRW and DRW pick up trucks, then, no, the rear axles are not the same between the two. The pick up DRW axle is wider than the SRW to allow the inner duals to clear the leaf springs.
The DRW pickup axle is wider to allow 4' between the wheeltubs in the box. The C&C axle has narrower spring perches and narrower leaves to clear the tires.
The bearing hubs and brake drums are also different to accomodate the significant additional offset of the duals.

The FRONT hubs are different for that. The center of the contact patch in the rear is the same, so it doesn't have to be changed in relation to the bearings.
Added the bits in yellow.

The sterlings [10.25s, at least] all have the same hubs.
The axle shafts are the same for the SRW and C&C. DRW are longer shafts.
Brakes differ between DRW/C&C and SRW, but with all the backspacing on the backing plates I saw on my C&C axle they should interchange on the housings.

Last edited by [486]; 02-21-2013 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So with say a ~2" spacer I could run dually wheels and tires?

I was thinking I could do this for long trips with a high rear axle weight (IE camper and possibly 2 (light) wheelers on a trailer)
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Like said before a dually rear is wider. A cab and chassis rear is the same width but the frame is 34" instead of 38". The issue you run into is the inside tire hits the springs. I did it for pulling i didn't run it on the road. I had a 2" spacer and about 3/4" of washers to get them to clear. I was running 265/75 r16 tires where stock duallys are 235/85 r16 so i might of been able to clear them with just the spacer but it would have been close. 3" would be perfect. The sidewalls of my tires were also rubbing together with the 265's but with about 250 washers already used i didn't feel like cleaning out the next hardware store haha SO i would say a 3" spacer or fnd a dually rear. Mine was a 97 f-250 also and the studs are plenty long enough
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sterling Axle Measurements for reference:

Sterling 10.25 in a 1996 F350 SRW
Spring Perch to Spring Perch (Center-Center) - 45"
WMS to WMS - 65.5"
Backing Plate to Backing Plate (Inside-Inside) - 53.5
Leaf Springs - 3" wide.
The SRW axle uses a lug-centric 8 x 6.50" bolt circle and conical lug nuts.

Sterling 10.25 DRW Cab and Chassis Axle (from a 1993 Econoline Conversion Dually VanTruck, or TruckVan, if you wish)
Spring Perch to Spring Perch (Center to Center) - 40.5"
WMS to WMS - 65.5" (Same as SRW)
Backing Plate to Backing Plate (Inside-Inside) - 53.5 (Same as SRW)
Leaf Springs - 2.5" wide
The DRW axle uses a hub-centric 8 x 6.50" bolt circle and flat lug nuts

Sterling 10.25 DRW Pickup Axle (from a 1995 F350 7.3L)
Spring Perch to Spring Perch (Center to Center) - 45" (Same as SRW)
WMS to WMS - 72.5"
Backing Plate to Backing Plate (Inside-Inside) - 58.5
Leaf Springs - 3" Wide
The DRW axle uses a hub-centric 8 x 6.50" bolt circle and flat lug nuts.

The easiest way is to track down a non Cab and Chassis dually axle. Direct swap. Done.

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Old 02-21-2013, 09:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I looked into putting duals on my first gen Dodge diesel. It is a 250 4x4 with a 70 rear. I also compared it to another stock first gen. Here's what I found on mine. Since I have lift springs in the rear with no blocks, I could install duals with 215/85 tires and have 1/2 to 3/4 inch of clearance to the leaf spring. However, you would have to alter the wheel tubs on your bed because if you squat the truck it will kill the inside tire. The spring is about 2" inboard of the wheel tub.

I tried the same thing with a 93 single wheel first gen that had the factory 6" rear blocks. On this truck, you could not run duals without a spacer of at least an inch because the inner bead of the wheel ran into the tops of the U-bolts. If this truck had shorter blocks, or lift springs without blocks like mine, it would have fit the same as mine.

If you want to run duals with a camper, you will most likely be hosed. The mods to make the wheel tubs clear the tires most likely won't allow a camper to fit in between them.
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The problem with running wheel spacers on the rear to move the tires out enough to not rub the spring is that you are moving the centerline of the wheel package away from the centerline of the hub bearings. This increases the side load on the bearings so they aren't rated to support the same load as they would be if the weight was centered on them.
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RanchTruck View Post
The problem with running wheel spacers on the rear to move the tires out enough to not rub the spring is that you are moving the centerline of the wheel package away from the centerline of the hub bearings. This increases the side load on the bearings so they aren't rated to support the same load as they would be if the weight was centered on them.
I was thinking the same thing, kinda defeats the purpose of the duals anyway
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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the non cab and chassis 10.25 sterling dual isn't bolt in anyway, uses different leafs, as you noted above... the inside tires will hit a 3" spring.. I've seen the pictures on fte.
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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the non cab and chassis 10.25 sterling dual isn't bolt in anyway, uses different leafs, as you noted above... the inside tires will hit a 3" spring.. I've seen the pictures on fte.
I think you meant to say the cab and chassis axle. The pickup axles, both the SRW and DRW, use 3" leaf packs.

The Chassis Cab axle is the odd one out, the other two are directly swappable.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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honestly you are not gonna raise you GVRW and with out a real axle change its just for looks is there any reason you want to do this besides have 2 more wheels and paying more on tolls?
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Do they make duallys pay higher tolls back there? Out here I'm pretty sure it's only number of axles.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Where did you find that first picture? That's my old crew cab.

It was a 14 bolt single wheel, I just threw on 16.5" dually wheels. Had to cut the inner fender wells out though in the box. 16" rims would not clear the bigger brake drums, and I had to grind the fins of the drums down to get the 16.5s to fit. I did that for looks more than anything. The front end was original with snap-on hubcaps.

Then I was doing a full dually conversion, ended up needing to drive it so I threw the single wheel axle back in, and forgot the A-Frame hoist was still chained up to it. Needless to say it destroyed the truck and I ended up getting that grey dually 4x4 and diving it for a while.





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