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Old 11-21-2006, 10:09 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FYRMAN
What kind of controller? Some controllers will send a voltage thru the wire, with no amperage. That is how they check for the complete circuit and the controller lets you know the trailer is hooked up, either with a light or a display, etc... The voltage will light a test light. Hook up a trailer and see what it does.

This is all assuming that you have all the wires in the controller harness hooked up right.
Got it taken care of. Guy at the Local RV place saved the day.. i got this controller used from a friend who got it from his work... and well i guess they had it wired into one of their trucks and switched the wire colors under it.. he says im a dumbass for not peeling the tape back and i say im not cause it looked as if it had not been touched.. (wiring)
Anyway. its taken care of and in the end its a shitty controller anyway

Last edited by Mud Slayer 2.0; 11-21-2006 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 01-08-2007, 04:10 PM   #102 (permalink)
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How about an 04 Dodge 1500 Hemi. No towing package I wired in a 7 way, but I am worried about the blue wire. Its on the plug under the dash and traced it down to the drivers side fender.

So can I still use the plug under the dash and splice the blue wire in at the driver side fender?
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Old 01-08-2007, 04:34 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Yes. Answer is on page 1 in the Dodge section.
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Old 01-08-2007, 04:44 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Yes. Answer is on page 1 in the Dodge section.
Sorry must of missed it, thank you for the quick reply.
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Old 03-08-2007, 06:34 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Fyrman,

Many thanks for the tech. Got my Prodigy controller ordered.

The good news is that my Ford dealer did include the pigtail/relay and instructions, so I'm good to go (Stop.)
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:22 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Pics don't seem to work anymore?
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Old 10-05-2007, 10:39 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Pics don't seem to work anymore?


Alot of them were hotlinked. The ones that are still working are hosted here.

If you need to see something for clarification, let me know and I'll find one for you.
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Old 01-01-2008, 02:45 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FYRMAN View Post
Alot of them were hotlinked. The ones that are still working are hosted here.

If you need to see something for clarification, let me know and I'll find one for you.
I'll be doing an '02 Silverado 1500 soon. I believe it has the tow package, or at least it has a factory hitch and what appears to be factory 7-pin connector out back.

It'd be nice to see a pic of the plug I'll need that used to be in post #7.

If I understood what I read, and if I do indeed have the factory tow package, this is pretty much plug 'n play? Or is there still some hardwiring? I read post #7 repeatedly, and I read the whole thread, but I'm still a bit unclear. Guess I suck at reeding compreehenshun.
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Old 01-01-2008, 08:49 PM   #109 (permalink)
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The half of the plug you are looking for is the brown plug on the left. Make sure you get the right one for your truck. There are two available for Chevy that are the same plug, but wired differently.

Shouldn't have to run any wires. The only extra thing you may have to do is install a fuse for the battery charge wire, if you need it.
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Old 04-17-2008, 10:52 PM   #110 (permalink)
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rock on! this is exactly what I needed.
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:35 AM   #111 (permalink)
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Great thread. I have a 2006 dodge 2500 and am trying to install a prodigy P3. It has the tow package and I have the electric brake plug from factory in the glove box. Problem is, the plug under the dash is not where the pictures (TornadTJ) say it should be. Does this mean they did put one in and I need to hard wire (please say it aint so) or could it be somewhere else?
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Old 05-16-2008, 09:43 PM   #112 (permalink)
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2004 National Dolphin motorhome

My Dolphin motorhome has the 8.1 liter Chevy motor. Will the brake controller harness be inside of a enclosed box like the Silverado's or will it be just hanging somewhere. Plug in the back appears to be wired but the wiring gets lost up inside the coach and can not be traced to its ending!
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:50 AM   #113 (permalink)
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1997 Econoline E150

I ordered this van from the factory with the RV conversion package. I am installing a Prodigy P3 brake controller. I have found the wiring port under the hood, the wiring ports under the dash, but I can't find the two ports for trailer hookup on the rear frame. There is a large cable routed in at the front of the fuel tank but a small loom exiting from the rear. Has anyone located the ports between the fuel tank and the frame and am I going to have to remove the fuel tank for access? The other ports were taped securely into to the harnesses under the dash and hood.
The van came with the pigtails to plug into the factory ports. It will probably be easier for me to run my own wiring harness than bother you with the trivial. Just wanted to keep it original if possible.
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Old 12-13-2008, 08:59 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Electric Trailer brakes (HELP)

I'm set up the trailer brakes and I'm corn fused... On the brake backing plates are two wires both the same in color one with a stripe (I assume to be positive) the other ground. the brake control module shows normal operation. I don't have any brakes. I checked for power and its there. Anyone have any ideas? Brakes are new.
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Old 12-27-2008, 01:26 AM   #115 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikegyver1 View Post
I'm set up the trailer brakes and I'm corn fused... On the brake backing plates are two wires both the same in color one with a stripe (I assume to be positive) the other ground. the brake control module shows normal operation. I don't have any brakes. I checked for power and its there. Anyone have any ideas? Brakes are new.
Not the place for this question, but I see you started a new thread... I'll leave some ideas in the new thread.
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:52 PM   #116 (permalink)
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awesome tech! answered all my questions! Thanks
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Old 01-25-2009, 02:07 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Only thing I have to add; I do not recommend the use of scotch locks. Soldering and heat shrinking; followed by a wrap of 3m super 88+ electrical tape is my prefered method.

And when using electrical tape, the $1 rolls are VERY inferior to the 3m super 33+ or 88+ in terms of flexibility, stickiness, and long life. I prefer 88+ for vehicles because it works even in colder temps, and will never fall off. Most times you can't even unwrap it, you must slice the tape off.

As someone who has done many stereo installs and fixed lots of trailers with wiring issues, these are just my perfered methods. With a decent solder job and good tape I have never had anybody complain of the connection coming loose.
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:07 AM   #118 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Only thing I have to add; I do not recommend the use of scotch locks. Soldering and heat shrinking; followed by a wrap of 3m super 88+ electrical tape is my prefered method.
Agreed. We have even changed the way we do things in our shop to upgrade the way we make connections. Only place where a scotchlock is used any more is to make the connection at the stop light switch. Most times there is no room to make a proper connection, and for being in a dry environment, it's fine.
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:18 PM   #119 (permalink)
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i found the plug under my dash for the controller. anybody have any idea where the extra two wires are on the back of my frame that i need to round out the 7 wire plug? (it has a flat 4 on it now) truck in question is a 94 f-350...

thanks
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:58 PM   #120 (permalink)
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You may have to dig for them, but they are there. Drop the spare and look at the drivers rear of the frame. Should be a roundish plug with a heavy orange and blue wire. There will be one more wire in there for the reverse light. I know that wire is a 10 guage wire, but, yes, it should be the reverse wire.

Oh, yeah... cut the plug off. You will never find the mate.
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Last edited by FYRMAN; 07-27-2009 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 09-15-2009, 12:40 PM   #121 (permalink)
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dumb question.... but, does it matter if you hook up the power to a keyed power source or a constant 12v source??
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Old 09-16-2009, 04:00 AM   #122 (permalink)
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dumb question.... but, does it matter if you hook up the power to a keyed power source or a constant 12v source??
With the newer controllers, they pull very little power so it shouldn't matter. My main concern would be that the source be able to handle the amp draw the controller will need.
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Old 12-08-2009, 11:45 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Really such useful inforamtion.
But I have a 2007 Nitro with a factory tow package. I am told I need to install an electronic brake control to pull the trailer I have. I bought a Reese Brakeman Compact but I cannot seem to find the wires to connect it. Can anyone tell me where to look? Thanks.
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:08 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Motorhome

Hey, how about a motorhome? 1993 25' Fleetwood Flair class A. I assume it would be the same as an older non pre wired truck except you would need more wire. It is wired in the back for the round 4 plug already.
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:10 PM   #125 (permalink)
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The reason 99-02 chevys and 03-07classics are different is the 99-02s had a switched ground system and the 03-07 has a switched +.

My 00 k3500 (obs) had all the wires run and some hack "mechanic" ran all new wire (18ga. Instead of the facotry 10ga.....when the factory wire was there? mind blowing ). The factory had the aux and brake controller wires by the harness going into the fusebox. Simply cut out all the hack and put the aux on one of the aux posts, and poked the brake wire through the steering column grommet. The ass-end of the truck was a whole page of hack, 28 butt connectors and 7 wires? Awesome! So i probably dont have any good advice for that. (I cut 5 lbs. of wire out)
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