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53' toyhauler build

69K views 301 replies 62 participants last post by  maveric 
#1 ·
I have decided after the last couple years of wheeling/camping, that I wanted a toy hauler. I like the idea of being able to keep my rig's out of the weather, as well as out of sight and secured. My 30' GN has served us well for the last 13 years, but it is not enclosed. We have slowly graduated from tent sleeping to wanting more comforts. I guess I am getting old, but sleeping on the ground does not appeal to me any longer.

2 years ago, I upgraded trucks to a HDT. It makes pulling 2 rigs much better IMHO, and the mileage I get from the HDT loaded is the same that I got out of my Cummins with the same load.

Last summer I decided that the ideal setup for us would be an enclosed trailer long enough to haul 2 rigs, and have a LQ section that I could spend a week in. Since we are in the west, almost every where we wheel is wide open, and I don't mind boondocking. I am thinking the trailer will be self sufficient, so I can park anywhere and enjoy the outdoors.

I found a 53' Wabash Duraplate trailer for a good price, and brought it home. It is 102" wide, has good wood on the floors, and aluminum roof. It has been sitting out in the weather all winter (if you could call it that this year), and the inside is still dry, so no leaks. I have drawn up some plans for the LQ, and was a little worried about weight distribution. I am not planning on slide outs, so everything has to fit inside 8'. I guessed on some weights of the loads I would usually be carrying. I used the trailer to bring home a load of wood pellets, so I located the pellets (1 ton pallets) in relation to where the loads would ride. The trailer handled the offsets fine, and since the trailer is rated for 65,000lbs, the 15-20k I will be putting in it should not matter.

Here is the trailer as it sits today.


 
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#2 · (Edited)
My plan is to locate the LQ in the front 20 foot of the trailer, which will leave me about 31-32' for the garage area. Since all of our rigs are Toyota based. they fit inside with room to move around them.



The 31' is enough to put the wifes 4runner and my xcab, and still have room to walk around them. If I can get 32' out of it, it will make room for my xcab and a 1st gen 4dr Tacoma (not much room to walk around, but they will fit).





Loading I thought might be an issue, but at 4' off the ground, it isn't too bad.
 
#3 ·
The plan for the LQ includes sleeping (comfortably) for my wife, myself, and my 9 yr old son. It also needs a toilet, shower, fridge, freezer, and cooking abilities. I don't plan on spending every waking minute in the LQ, but for the time we will be in there, I want it comfortable, and as roomy as possible. This may be difficult with a 20 x 8 box, but since it has a 9' ceiling, it will look more open. plus I can locate storage up on the walls.

Drew up some floor plans last night.
From above:


Driver side, side view:


Passenger side, side view:
 
#6 ·
I am looking at a 35' 5th wheel camper that the owner is thinking about parting out. If I can get it for the right price, I think I can use the appliances, water tanks, windows, and some of the little things like propane lines, plumbing, etc.

The 2 issues I have with this build so far are:
1) My wife really hates the color of the trailer. She also doesn't care for the color of the truck either. My solution... If you sand it, I will paint it. :D
I think this problem will fix itself.

2) The wall height is 9' on the inside. I have to frame the inside of the LQ. I am thinking that I would be better off to frame the inside with 2x2 or 2x4, and build a complete box inside the existing enclosure. It is currently weather tight, but it isn't very rigid. The side walls are aluminum, and they flex. By framing a box inside, the LQ will be independent of the floating shell.
After pricing lumber locally, there is a decent price difference between 8' and 10'. I think with the difference in price, it will be cheaper to build a subfloor about 1' off the existing floor. This will allow the use of 8' lumber for the side walls, floor, roof, and end walls. It will also give me an air-space between the trailer floor, and the LQ floor. I will be able to run the plumbing and heat ducting in this space.

Since I have never attempted anything like this before, I am not sure if 2x2's would be strong enough. Or would 2x4's be a better option? I priced 2x2's and they are almost as much as a 2x4, but I could buy 2x4's and rip them in half.
I am thinking 2x2's are my preference, since I am looking for as much interior space as possible (would gain 4" inside space over 2x4's), but I don't want this thing falling apart in a couple years either.
I am planning on framing the walls in, then placing foam board insulation between the studs, then some type of paneling over that. (something similar to what newer camp trailers use)
I then plan on framing the rest of the interior, such as cabinets, counters, etc. The hanging cabinets will be approx. 18" deep, and about 2' tall. I think it would be better to frame these than to hang pre-fabbed cabinets.
Good idea/bad idea?
 
#7 ·
Layed out the basic design inside the trailer with masking tape to get an idea on how cramped it would really be. I have changed the layout just a little...



For the garage side, I am planning to run anchors in the floor, and use Mac style tire tie-downs. I am currently using them on the flatbed of the tow rig, and they keep movement to a minimum. I usually tie to the axles anyway, so I think the tire straps up front and straps from the rear axle to the floor.





I hope to get some e-track to mount on the garage walls, so I can attach work bench's / additional sleeping bunks. This would allow easier storage of them when not in use. I also plan on making some shelves on the upper garage walls for storing lighter parts.
My son loves sleeping on the upper bunk in the tow rig, so planning to build a bunk above the door from the garage to the LQ, that is actually above the hood of the front vehicle. This is kind of wasted space anyway, so it should work well.
 
#8 ·
I don't think box-within-a-box will be a problem at all.

Most RV's are 2x2 construction anyway, and your walls will only be carrying the paneling and cabinets--not external wind loads and the weight of the roof.

You will need to be a bit creative with your window trim rings. Most RV walls are only ~1.5"+ thick.


With a 9' ceiling, you could also consider a 6'-6" interior ceiling (like most RV's) with a 2.5' attic. Store lightweight/bulky stuff up there--tires, tarps, camp chairs, etc..or even give your kid a bunk room over yours.
Definitely reuse all the RV parts you can. If you have a raised floor, you could put your water tank(s) in there, too, and make them more freeze-resistant.

Buy a new black tank if it fits better instead of trying to make an old one work. They're only $100-200.

Consider building a full basement between the landing gear and the rear axles. This would also be a great spot for your fresh water tanks--and heavy stuff--tools, air compressor, welder, generator, barbecue, etc. Make it out of 0.083" wall 2" square tubing and skin it with aluminum. This could also help highway fuel economy much like skirts.
 
#10 ·
I thought about the 6'6" interior, but my wife is really set on the high ceilings. She doesn't like the look of the cramped quarters on standard campers. If it makes her happy....
I was looking at 100 gallon fresh water tanks, and I can get one that is about 8" tall and 6-7 foot long. I think this would work great under the raised floor, and would help keep it warm during our cold times of the year.

The window framing has boggled my mind for a while, but I think I will just make a floating surround, knowing that it won't seal real tight against the glass. I don't see a huge issue, unless something falls down between the wall and window.

I currently have plans to mount the generator on the truck (so I have power when bob-tailing), but I am planning on building a framework under the truck for storage and to alter the look of the trailer. I want to put a small air compressor, propane tanks, black/gray water tanks, and all the heavy stuff under the trailer. Also planning on a set of fold up / slide type steps. The RV design will work fine, but they are all too short. So I want to do something similar to this, but with another 2 steps that fold down on the bottom:



This is along the lines that I am wanting to make the bottom of the trailer look like. Just want to make it look "less commercial" than it currently does.

 
#13 ·
Looking forward to this.

When you build the floor make sure you have plenty of flip up or removable panels to gain room to work.

x2 on the black tanks, buy new ones.Over time abs gets really brittle.You will more than likely crack one trying to get it out from the camper frame. Do cut off the drain shut offs though.
 
#15 ·
When you build the floor make sure you have plenty of flip up or removable panels to gain room to work.

x2 on the black tanks, buy new ones.Over time abs gets really brittle.You will more than likely crack one trying to get it out from the camper frame. Do cut off the drain shut offs though.
Planned on a new black tank. Didn't think about saving the old shut off though. I think the black and gray tanks will be mounted under the trailer in the cargo area, directly behind the landing gear (since that is almost directly under the bathroom). The less plumbing I have to do, the better.
 
#16 ·
Electrical wiring

What does everyone think about putting 2 separate electrical systems in the LQ? I am planning to run a 110v system, that will be ran off the generator, or off shore power. I will be running a couple outlets in each section of the LQ.
I am also planning on running solar panels on the roof of the trailer (looking at the flat, flexible, stick on panels.
http://peelandsticksolarenergy.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Solar-roof-T48.jpg

I am considering running a 12v systems as well, and having separate outlets. These would be for things like 12v lighting, small appliances.

I think running 2 separate lighting systems makes sense, so I can run off the battery bank when I don't want to run the generator, but not sure if running separate 12v outlets is a waste of time.
 
#19 ·
No outside door on the LQ?

Windows big enough/open to escape out of should the need arise?
No outside door from the LQ. Not enough room for one, plus, I would rather have the dirt and mud in the garage. There will be a single door from the LQ into the garage in the center of the rear wall. The walk in exit door for the trailer will be located on the curb side, directly rearward of the LQ back wall.
I am planning on large exit windows above the bed in the front of the trailer, as well as above the table (opposite the stove) on the curb side. I am debating putting a trap door on the rear wall of the upper bunk (kids bed), that would allow him to exit directly into the garage, but I don't know if it is worth the effort, as he can just drop to the floor of the LQ and exit the door.
 
#25 ·
Great project, I'll be following along. We're doing just about the same thing here too, but we'll be about 6 months behind you. I just picked up the tractor ('95 kenworth W900 extended frame) a couple weeks ago so starting the rebuild on that when we have time.

I think your layout looks pretty good. I like the loft over the truck storage, that's a great use of space. It looks like you've got lots of cabinet space built in too. Building a sub structure is absolutely the right move IMO. It gives you room to run electrical and plumbing, and most importantly insulation. Talking with Big Rich, that's the number one thing he recommended. If you've ever been in a trailer in the summer you know they get HOT, so do everything you can to prevent that. I'll likely be having mine spray foamed.

Personally, I HATE working with 2x2's. I'm constantly splitting them, or breaking them. Since weight is not a huge issue for you I'd think about using a 2x4 flat against the wall. This keeps a thin wall but also adds strength and more board to attach things to without as much risk of splitting or cracking the board.

How much head room will you have for a door into the garage with a sub floor and a lofted bunk?
 
#27 ·
Personally, I HATE working with 2x2's. I'm constantly splitting them, or breaking them. Since weight is not a huge issue for you I'd think about using a 2x4 flat against the wall. This keeps a thin wall but also adds strength and more board to attach things to without as much risk of splitting or cracking the board.
I have thought about doing this too, as it would make the walls quite a bit stronger for things like the ceiling level cabinets, although I don't currently plan to store anything heavy in them. The heavy stuff will be stored on the lower cabinets and under the trailer, or in the garage.

How much head room will you have for a door into the garage with a sub floor and a lofted bunk?
The way I have it currently drawn out, there will be about 6.5 feet from the garage floor to the bottom of the loft. Maybe 7 if I make the loft more of a cave. With a 1' raised floor, it would place the bottom of the loft about 5.5-6 feet from the LQ floor. That is not enough room, since I don't want to have to duck every time I walk in or out. So I think I will have to place the bottom of the door at deck level, and have a landing just inside the door (enough to open the door, step through, and still close the door), then a step up to the LQ sub floor.
I'm not sure I like the idea of having a step you can trip on while walking in the door, but may not have any other options.
 
#30 ·
Great build! I've been thinking about doing this for a long time as well. I was leaning toward using a drop frame trailer(ie: moving van) but I do like the idea of a large storage space under the floor. Plus trailers like yours are plentiful and cheaper.

You could make the loft parallel with the trailer instead of side to side and against one wall. It really would only have to be as long as a mattress and wide enough for a twin or double. If the majority is sticking into the garage above the hood area of one of your trucks that's 4-5 feet of the length right there.
 
#34 ·
I will keep that in mind. This trailer is in very good shape. There area couple panels with minor damage to them (cosmetic), but overall it is good. The only thing that I need to address before it get used a lot is to replace the spring on the locking pin for the sliding suspension. 3 of the 4 are there, but one is completely missing. There is also a little rust on the light housings on the back of the trailer, but I am planning to rebuild them, as well as the bumper.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Some thoughts after towing and scaling with ours:

- Water/grey tanks as big and as forward as possible. We have a 150, but I'd go bigger if I could. It works out to be another thousand lbs on the drives currently.

- with the living quarters up front, and heavier rigs in the back I wish all the heavy storage stuff was up front under the living area.

- Think about the pit/ camp layout. In the belly boxes, stuff you use all the time on the same side as the entry doors. Stuff you hardly use on the other side. Some of the stuff may require longer doors to be put away nicely.

- For lack of a better term: blowout walls. When a trailer tire lets loose its a lot more energy than anyone wants to believe. If your belly storage compartments are close, reinforce the walls to the point you think its safe, then add in some more. Our last blowdown tore up 3/8" steel like it was paper.

- Full size electrical panel. 12 breakers is not enough.


Welcome to the big times. Where fuel milage is the same and the hills don't matter.
 
#36 ·
I have some buddies with a 53' hauler they haul 2 short course trucks in. They have a lofted queen bed over the garage area and it works good. They also have work benches built that they pull the truck up on. Under the benches is parts storage and 4 wheelers and golf carts fit between the benches under the trucks. It's a nice setup and much cheaper than a toy hauler.
 
#37 ·
Awesome!! I look forward to seeing how this works out. I agree on turning the 2"x4" flat against the wall. It would give more confidence on carrying weight, plus attaching to them would be nice and easy. Not as much room for insulation, but it would certainly help with blending your windows in without having a deep "pocket". A couple of well placed ramps (collapsable) inside could help stack a rig as well if you get bigger and bigger down the road. I look forward to following along on this one!! Keep the pictures coming.

Bryce Stewart
Stout Fabrication
 
#40 ·
I haven't seen BarrelRoll's truck, but I saw Evan Evans' hauler in Baja several years ago. Work benches about 30" high, framed with 2" or so square tubing. Put diamond plate on top.

Works GREAT. Far better than loading the trucks, then stuffing everything around them, then having to unload all your crap in the dirt just to unload the trucks.

Permanent storage under the benches, more storage between the benches (what would be between the tires if the truck sat on the floor), workbenches, and a built-in mechanic's pit.

The back 8' or so was a hinged ramp. For transport, the back of the ramp was flush with the back door sill so trucks could be driven up on top. In camp, the ramp could be lifted for a flat workbench...or you could jack it up to use as a mechanics' pit.

The weight of a rig is not THAT dense, relative to everything else in the trailer, or relative to what the trailer used to haul, so it's not like you're raising the CG an insane amount.
 
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