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Old 06-14-2017, 05:13 AM   #1851 (permalink)
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If you do the air solenoid activated by the brake light switch, are you activating the trailer brakes also, or does your controller operate on braking pressure instead of an electrical signal?
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Old 06-14-2017, 06:30 AM   #1852 (permalink)
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Trailer brakes will also be activated by the electric brake switch.
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:26 AM   #1853 (permalink)
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Have another thought for activation of the brake. Not 100% sure what part I would need though. Would consist of a pressure switch on the intake manifold. When intake pressure drops to approx. 0psi the switch would turn on the valve to activate the ram. This way I could roll on and off the throttle and the brake actuate on its own but never while under boost. Similar to how the newer trucks reacted with an ex. brake when you let off the throttle. Arm it with a switch for on/off so it can be locked out.

Anyone know what kind of switch I can use that is in the on/off position at 0-1psi? Thanks. ***Also found pneumatic cylinders that have internal return springs.
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Old 06-14-2017, 06:29 PM   #1854 (permalink)
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wouldn't it be easier to just put a microswitch on the throttle arm?

no brake unless 0 throttle.
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Old 06-14-2017, 06:54 PM   #1855 (permalink)
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Quote:
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wouldn't it be easier to just put a microswitch on the throttle arm?

no brake unless 0 throttle.
ding ding ding

this is how jakes were set up before electronic governors came about
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:58 PM   #1856 (permalink)
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ding ding ding

this is how jakes were set up before electronic governors came about
agreed, thats the ONLY way it should be set up... I drove a few vulva's that had the jake tied into the brake pedal, complete shit..

You want it to come on whenever you are at zero throttle, no sense in wasting brakes when the jake/exhaust brake is free..
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Old 06-15-2017, 03:47 AM   #1857 (permalink)
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What kind of micro switch do you recommend? I like a soft throttle pedal and don't want to add a heavy spring for a switch to function properly.
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Old 06-15-2017, 04:13 AM   #1858 (permalink)
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A little looking around and found this, looks like it would be pretty light to activate. Tell me if I am on the right track will this, just don't want to order the wrong parts.

https://vetco.net/products/12a-micro...FQxWDQodTqUJ5A

This is the cylinder I am looking at too. Just ordered a billet s300 4" flange and clamp and will be going with 4" v clamps for the brake.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/CLIPPARD-Q41-2...%257Ciid%253A7

Here is a picture of the project me and my Dad are working on. Methanol 350 BP&B, 13.6:1cr, Brodix track 2 CNC heads, Jessel rods and shaft rockers, 850cfm quick fuel, etc etc etc. Leaving the line with a 6500rpm stall through a trans brake turbo 400, 4.88 gears and 10.5" slicks. Have the car solid enough that it should pull the tires. When we built the motor it spec'd out to make around 650hp, my guess is around 620hp. Figured I would share before we put the front clip on and button it up.
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Old 06-15-2017, 04:54 AM   #1859 (permalink)
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A little looking around and found this, looks like it would be pretty light to activate. Tell me if I am on the right track will this, just don't want to order the wrong parts.

https://vetco.net/products/12a-micro...FQxWDQodTqUJ5A
That should work just fine.

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Old 06-15-2017, 05:34 AM   #1860 (permalink)
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Another option. I think this one was the factory switch in the bigcam fuel pump.

https://www.dansshopinc.com/store/sh...-micro-switch/
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Old 06-15-2017, 06:52 AM   #1861 (permalink)
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What kind of micro switch do you recommend? I like a soft throttle pedal and don't want to add a heavy spring for a switch to function properly.
it shouldn't add anything to the pedal. You literally need a bracket that holds a switch on the throttle lever for the pump. When trottle return spring pulls the lever to closed, hits switch.

if you want it to be super proper, just get a nitrous WOT switch.
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Old 06-15-2017, 10:30 AM   #1862 (permalink)
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Sounds good, got a bunch of parts ordered for it. Found a chart that has the back pressure ratings for a bunch of motors. The 7.8 is rated at 45psi back pressure. Definitely going to put a drive pressure gauge on it. Chart says mount at least 42" behind the turbo. Anyone know whats up with that? All I can think of is because of space constraints.

http://www.pacbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/L2009.pdf
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Old 06-15-2017, 10:33 AM   #1863 (permalink)
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that may be so there's enough volume in the pipe to avoid weird pressure spikes or some shit from the cylinders.

You're essentially building a pressure vessel when the exhaust brake shuts. So you may need a certain amount of volume to keep spikes from happening.
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Old 06-16-2017, 06:46 AM   #1864 (permalink)
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Sounds good, got a bunch of parts ordered for it. Found a chart that has the back pressure ratings for a bunch of motors. The 7.8 is rated at 45psi back pressure. Definitely going to put a drive pressure gauge on it.

http://www.pacbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/L2009.pdf

You're actually now considering pressure gauges?!?!
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Old 06-16-2017, 10:14 AM   #1865 (permalink)
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Well now that I am tearing it all apart, yes. Wasn't much point in a DP gauge when 2/6 cylinders we're leaking around the manifold gasket. Just got the Barder Diesel billet S300 flange and clamp in the mail, real nice piece. Much nicer than a homemade flange and wrong clamp that it had. From the turbo into a 4"X1/4" 90* elbow with a 4" vband on the end. Two 4" vbands on the brake and back into standard 4" aluminized after the brake.

In the hospital right now, our baby boy was born last night. Today is my wife's birthday too so it was great timing.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:03 PM   #1866 (permalink)
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CONGRATS! on the new Son!

Hope everyone's doing well.
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Old 06-19-2017, 11:49 AM   #1867 (permalink)
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Thanks, all is good and back to the grind. Have been talking to the wife about getting a different truck camper. Built the truck to handle an 11' maybe 11'6" camper. What we have right now is 10ft and will be too small, I also dislike the wet bath a lot. Looking at Northwoods Mfc, they build the Arctic Fox series of truck campers. Aluminum frame construction and heavy insulation, made very well. Want to find something with a 10ft slide, dry bath, plus everything our current camper is equipped with, something no older than 2012 and through a dealer. Have had our current camper almost 3 years, it has served us well and have learned a lot from it.

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Old 06-19-2017, 01:29 PM   #1868 (permalink)
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Got the parts to finish the exhaust brake minus the electrical pieces. Got some fabricating to do.
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Old 06-19-2017, 04:28 PM   #1869 (permalink)
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As far as I got today.
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Old 06-20-2017, 07:02 AM   #1870 (permalink)
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Well now that I am tearing it all apart, yes. Wasn't much point in a DP gauge when 2/6 cylinders we're leaking around the manifold gasket. Just got the Barder Diesel billet S300 flange and clamp in the mail, real nice piece. Much nicer than a homemade flange and wrong clamp that it had. From the turbo into a 4"X1/4" 90* elbow with a 4" vband on the end. Two 4" vbands on the brake and back into standard 4" aluminized after the brake.

In the hospital right now, our baby boy was born last night. Today is my wife's birthday too so it was great timing.
CONGRATULATIONS on the newest addition to your family!!!

You'll need the longer camper with another toddler in a few years!
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Old Yesterday, 04:46 AM   #1871 (permalink)
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Thanks, kicking things into high gear. So this year I won't be able to hit the road all summer like years in the past. My folks will still be making the trip west though. With only one trailer (the Bloomer) and no stock trailer, that means no room for the beloved JD Gator. The next best option is our ATV. That being the case, I have to build an ATV rack for the trailer. Was able to source the roof rack from my F350, an old trailer tounge, and a 10.25" Sterling hub. It will be a tilt deck for easy on/off and removal from the trailer. Still have to put it all together.
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Old Today, 12:53 AM   #1872 (permalink)
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Won't that much weight that far back unload the tongue too much?

I would think that on even a 5th wheel moving that much weight that far back would not be a good idea.
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Old Today, 04:32 AM   #1873 (permalink)
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Shouldn't matter because the trailer axles are so far back. Pin weight is likely 3,000lb+ also, heavy enough to squat an F450 with 100psi air bags.

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Old Today, 05:24 AM   #1874 (permalink)
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Got it about 80% done last night, just some finish work to do. It holds the quad no problem and the shocks help out big time.
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Old Today, 11:52 AM   #1875 (permalink)
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How's the flex of the deck? It seems like you're probably good, but I'd be worried that you're creating a pretty long lever off the hitch. Hit some of the shitty roads here in Michigan, and I can see that thing flexing up and down pretty good rolling over the craters our state calls expansion joints.

Any thoughts about running a couple of straps/cables from those corners farthest away from the hitch up to the top corners of the trailer? Just to help take some of the play out of it?
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