Converting 2WD '01 CTD to 4WD?

[Desert Jeepin]

Anyone done it? Anyone have any advice? Anyone want to donate stock parts?

[35xj]

man, that seems like it would be a lot of work!

[ASTAR]

Cake, just do it. I'm gonna do one as soon as my buddy get's his 2WD stuck again

[mytzlflick]

my advice is not to do it, loads of work involved, if you use stock parts you'll start finding all the places that dodge cut corners in the 4wd bits and start upgrading and then it'll be money too.

[Desert Jeepin]

I understnad and even expect nay-sayers.

My truck is almost payed for. It'd be cheaper to convert it than it'd be to sell it, and buy a 4x4.

[Flake]

Just curious are you planning to use stock Dodge coils and control arms, go leaves or custom stuff?

[ASTAR]

It really wouldn't bee all that tough. You could use some stock springs , the stock sway bar (with modified links) and make some links up. If you go that way, I would just take measurements off of a stock Dodge to handle the link locations etc. Otherwise, you can leaf spring it and that would be silly easy. The only problem I'd see with that is sagging springs from the motor weight. Just make sure you do utilize a sway bar, and be sure to have proper steering geometry so it drives well. How much height do you want?

[Desert Jeepin]

I want it to look like it came from the factory.

I intend to utilize as many stock pieces as possible.

[pcorssmit]

Originally Posted by Desert Jeepin

I want it to look like it came from the factory.

I intend to utilize as many stock pieces as possible.

Have you ever driven a stock 4x4 model? The whole front end design is a disaster. If you're going to do the conversion, at least make it better than stock.

Pete

[Desert Jeepin]

Originally Posted by pcorssmit

Have you ever driven a stock 4x4 model? The whole front end design is a disaster. If you're going to do the conversion, at least make it better than stock.

Pete

Honestly, I have not. All I know is I'm sick of getting stuck, and in looking at a new towing setup, I think I'll need 4wd for 24K GCTW.

[ChiXJeff]

I may have to replace the front axle housing on my 99 2500 CTD. Junkyard price in the Midwest is anywhere from $1,100 to $1,750. Add in a 241HD tcase and driveshaft. Don't forget the shifter as well.

You sure it's gonna be cheaper?

[Desert Jeepin]

I can make my own driveshaft, Basically I'm thinking I'll need the axle, springs, arms and T-case.

I'm est. $400 for the tcase, I'm hoping I can get the stock springs and arms from someone who is doing a lift, so maybe what $200? Then the axle, and I'm guessing $1000 or so if I watch around like I did for the Jeep.

[TornadoTJ]

is the trans different from 4x2 to 4x4?

[Desert Jeepin]

I assume so. I will either be forced to sell my 2wd to buy a 4wd, or maybe jut swap outputs. I don't know. I need to buy a manual I guess.

[weedwacker]

I would rather nail my hand to a tree than spend 1 cent on a stock 4x4 steering box for that truck. DO NOT use the factory steering or track bar parts. They suck, big time!!!!! I know the tail case on the auto is different not sure about the output shaft.

[Desert Jeepin]

I have the 5spd..

[ASTAR]

Originally Posted by pcorssmit

Have you ever driven a stock 4x4 model? The whole front end design is a disaster. If you're going to do the conversion, at least make it better than stock.

Pete

This I don't understand. My truck drives kick ass...

[Pavement Pounder83]

sucks u are down there there is currently a v10 4wd truck in the junk yard. complete fron end and all that suspension and everything in good condition.

Drew

[pcorssmit]

Some of the quality parts that are part of the OE suspension:

Ball Joints.
$300 non-servicable front wheel bearings, which are absolutely impossible to buy on Memorial Day (and in my case, required a service truck to remove while sitting on the side of the road).
Track bar with a ball joint at the top end, which often lasts as little as 20k miles.
Death-wobble prone Inverted-Y steering (except for '98-'99).
Crappy Brakes (before ~'01)


Pete

[brian4wd]

Originally Posted by Desert Jeepin

I think I'll need 4wd for 24K GCTW.

Why?

Take a look at the Dick Cepek (or whoever is selling it now) long arm kit. It comes with new locating brackets and arms - might even work on a 2wd frame. Might save some hassle in making your own mounts.

Brian

[Desert Jeepin]

I had actually planned on doing that. I looked for that thread wher Lance had shown off his new lift kit. Something I was thinking about.

Also...
1) Trac Bar is easy fix with a 2003 and bracket.
2) Steering is an easy fix.

Not sure how to address the Bearings...

[brian4wd]

Lance's 'lift kit' ain't cheap and I believe it uses the stock control arms and locating brackets.

To address the unit bearing/wheel bearing use an older axle with regular wheel bearings and manual hubs. Dynatrac makes a manual hub kit for the '94-up front axle but it's expensive.

What's your plan for the steering? I have an '00 2500 4wd CTD and I haven't had any death wobble problems with it. I did have problems with a '96 2500 4wd 360 V8 truck though - caster adj solved the problem.

Any differences between a 2wd and 4wd frame?

Brian

[ASTAR]

Originally Posted by pcorssmit

Ball Joints.
$300 non-servicable front wheel bearings, which are absolutely impossible to buy on Memorial Day (and in my case, required a service truck to remove while sitting on the side of the road).
Track bar with a ball joint at the top end, which often lasts as little as 20k miles.
Death-wobble prone Inverted-Y steering (except for '98-'99).
Crappy Brakes (before ~'01)
Pete

Ok, I guess I'm lucky cause my wheel bearings are fine, ball joints are fine, track bar lasted 60k, no death wobble at all, and brakes are great (have drilled, slotted rotors) oh wait...it's an '01

Another idea is...hold the bullshit... using a Dana44 front. I don't know what your intentions are with the truck but it sounded "tow riggish" and I know that if I had a D44 in mine it would be fine (till the 30lb boost 4WD launches) but with normal "get it out of the snow, tow down a snowy road" it'd be fine. That would take care of every problem noted above. Oh, an I'll be putting in an 03 Track Bar in mine when this one goes out as well.

[Mechanos]

Originally Posted by ASTAR

Ok, I guess I'm lucky cause my wheel bearings are fine, ball joints are fine, track bar lasted 60k, no death wobble at all, and brakes are great (have drilled, slotted rotors) oh wait...it's an '01

Another idea is...hold the bullshit... using a Dana44 front. I don't know what your intentions are with the truck but it sounded "tow riggish" and I know that if I had a D44 in mine it would be fine (till the 30lb boost 4WD launches) but with normal "get it out of the snow, tow down a snowy road" it'd be fine. That would take care of every problem noted above. Oh, an I'll be putting in an 03 Track Bar in mine when this one goes out as well.

I'm not so sure about that. What's the weight capicity of a D44? My '01 CTD weighs in at 4200lbs on the front axle with me in the seat and a 1/3 tank of fuel. I'm not convinced that the D44 wheel bearings would last very long toting around that 1025 lb. engine mounted above them.

[Desert Jeepin]

Originally Posted by ASTAR

Ok, I guess I'm lucky cause my wheel bearings are fine, ball joints are fine, track bar lasted 60k, no death wobble at all, and brakes are great (have drilled, slotted rotors) oh wait...it's an '01

Another idea is...hold the bullshit... using a Dana44 front. I don't know what your intentions are with the truck but it sounded "tow riggish" and I know that if I had a D44 in mine it would be fine (till the 30lb boost 4WD launches) but with normal "get it out of the snow, tow down a snowy road" it'd be fine. That would take care of every problem noted above. Oh, an I'll be putting in an 03 Track Bar in mine when this one goes out as well.

Hey, I think maybe I should have mentioned the 4.10s, Straight Pipe, BHAF, and Drag Comp...