Drilling for Pyrometer - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

jwag · 05-02-2005, 09:07 AM

Did you remove your exhaust manifold?

I am getting ready to install an EGT gauge and my assumption was that I had to remove the manifold to ensure that no chips made their way to the turbo; but now i have read a couple of installation articles that don't remove it

Seems to me you are asking for trouble by not taking the time to take it off.

Is it better to have the pyrometer on the cast housing or weld a bung on the pipe going to the turbo?

Thanks

derek · 05-02-2005, 09:10 AM

i didnt remove mine. just greased the drill bit and tap and cleaned and regreased a lot.
then ran a magnet around the hole for a while to get the big chunks.
that was like 20,000 miles ago and no problems so far.

derek

m016324 · 05-02-2005, 09:30 AM

if you are super anal you can remove the exhaust manifold, but honestly there is no good reason to. If you take out the chips while you're drilling and pause before you break all the way through and clean out everything you're only going to have a couple little chips and the second that you start the engine it's going to blow them all out through the turbo. The miniscule amount of metal shavings that goes through the turbo isn't going to hurt it.

As for where to put the pyro the closer to the engine the more accurate the temperatures. However the difference between putting it on the manifold (that's where I have mine) and putting it on the pipe to the turbo probably won't be very large.

-ben

RE:Todd · 05-02-2005, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derek

i didnt remove mine. just greased the drill bit and tap and cleaned and regreased a lot.
then ran a magnet around the hole for a while to get the big chunks.
that was like 20,000 miles ago and no problems so far.

derek

Grease is your friend

Joey D · 05-02-2005, 10:23 AM

I have read that leaving the motor running while you drill and tap is the way to do it, unless you remove the manifold.

pimptony · 05-02-2005, 10:45 AM

I dont know about leaving it running but I greased, drilled, regreased, finished and inspected then tapped slowly. Its been fine for 10K miles. I have read that post and pre temps differ by about 200 degrees depending on the post location. FYI.

fire_beer_mayhem · 05-02-2005, 03:59 PM

I just left the motor running and used grease on the bit with no problems. be sure to wear some safety glasses if you do it while running.

TR · 05-02-2005, 04:54 PM

i just did mine this past weekend and i started with a greased 5/32 bit then a greased 5/16 bit and ended with a greased 7/16 bit and greased the tap up really good. then i just fired it up and the turbo is still spinning

bchesley · 05-02-2005, 07:29 PM

I drilled mine until I almost broke through, cranked it up and finished drilling and it blew all the chips out. I then greased the tap and finished it up. I did regrease it twice. Had no problems so far and dont plan on any either!!

Brad

weedwacker · 05-02-2005, 07:58 PM

I guess that makes me one of the anal retentive type. I pulled the turbo off pushed it over after loosening the down pipe, cleaned it out. Only takes a little longer. Stuff a rag past the drill point, vacume out pull rag, send a magnet down just to make sure.

thump93yj · 05-03-2005, 07:14 AM

4 bolts, loosten the turbo enough to slip some cardboard/posterboard or something in there and then vacuum the shavings out when your done.

Not that much extra effort to be safe.

jwag · 05-03-2005, 09:02 AM

I just ordered the gauges from John at Diesel Performance Shops and he confirmed that he leaves the engine running while drilling the manifold. The 20 or so psi of pressure pushes any chips out as you are drilling. He also sent a picture showing where to drill for a boost gauge on an LLY Duramax. Great guy to deal with.

CTD600 · 05-03-2005, 08:13 PM

Used grease on drill bit and tap last weekend. used magnet to clean up any leftover chips. no problems

Wildjeeper · 05-03-2005, 10:15 PM

Ditto, just use the oil and magnet.

Oxjockey · 05-04-2005, 06:23 AM

Could hold a shop vac there while you're drilling. I'd still crack the bolts on the turbo and put the paper or cardboard in there as mentioned.

Jeepdude_Jay · 05-04-2005, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by weedwacker

I guess that makes me one of the anal retentive type. I pulled the turbo off pushed it over after loosening the down pipe, cleaned it out. Only takes a little longer. Stuff a rag past the drill point, vacume out pull rag, send a magnet down just to make sure.

Exactly what I did. I'm ususally the better safe than sorry type.

swansong04 · 05-06-2005, 06:18 PM

when i did mine .. my wife controoled the shop -vac while i driller .. and just before i broke through i duct tapped my tailpipe and quickley started the truck and proceed to drill .. i am telling you i had a blast of exhaust through that hole !!! i am sure and filling came out !! simple stuff !!!!

Good luck

dirtydury · 05-07-2005, 10:10 PM

I magnatized the drill bit, then put a shop vac on the whole. Then tapped it with grease, shop vac again. Just to be safe I magnatized a small allen key and swished it around in the whole till there were no more shavings. I've done it on 3 different trucks. No problems.

DRM · 05-08-2005, 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oxjockey

Could hold a shop vac there while you're drilling. I'd still crack the bolts on the turbo and put the paper or cardboard in there as mentioned.

Well, cracking the turbo bolts on my 1998 truck with almost 300,000 miles on them looked like potentially more trouble than it would be worth.

The Jerk · 05-08-2005, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRM

Well, cracking the turbo bolts on my 1998 truck with almost 300,000 miles on them looked like potentially more trouble than it would be worth.

3 days of pb blaster should do the trick

Jeepmangled87 · 05-11-2005, 11:45 AM

just did mine last night, lots of greese, and the Edge instructions, say to start the motor right after you drill and let it run for 15 to 30 secs.

05-02-2005, 09:07 AM	#1 (permalink)
jwag Rock God Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7638 Location: norcal Posts: 1,095	Drilling for Pyrometer Did you remove your exhaust manifold? I am getting ready to install an EGT gauge and my assumption was that I had to remove the manifold to ensure that no chips made their way to the turbo; but now i have read a couple of installation articles that don't remove it Seems to me you are asking for trouble by not taking the time to take it off. Is it better to have the pyrometer on the cast housing or weld a bung on the pipe going to the turbo? Thanks

05-02-2005, 09:10 AM	#2 (permalink)
derek Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Member # 1860 Location: knoxville, tn Posts: 953	i didnt remove mine. just greased the drill bit and tap and cleaned and regreased a lot. then ran a magnet around the hole for a while to get the big chunks. that was like 20,000 miles ago and no problems so far. derek __________________ the more i play with it, the bigger it gets...... my truck that is

05-02-2005, 10:23 AM	#5 (permalink)
Joey D Granite Guru Join Date: May 2003 Member # 20053 Location: Arlington MA Posts: 820	I have read that leaving the motor running while you drill and tap is the way to do it, unless you remove the manifold. __________________ 98 K2500 SAS dynatrac pro rock 60, ORD high steer, RCV CV's, arb's front and rear, 4.56 gears 06 D Max Express

05-02-2005, 10:45 AM	#6 (permalink)
pimptony Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Member # 20025 Location: North Texas Posts: 338	I dont know about leaving it running but I greased, drilled, regreased, finished and inspected then tapped slowly. Its been fine for 10K miles. I have read that post and pre temps differ by about 200 degrees depending on the post location. FYI. __________________ [COLOR=DarkOrange][I]I really hope that God has the capacity for forgiveness that Christians claim, because I am going to test the absolute outer limits.[/I][/COLOR]

05-02-2005, 03:59 PM	#7 (permalink)
fire_beer_mayhem Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Member # 1708 Location: Redwood City, CA, USA Posts: 133	I just left the motor running and used grease on the bit with no problems. be sure to wear some safety glasses if you do it while running. __________________ 1986 4-runner sas,v6rear,4.88s,dual cases w/ cust. homemade xmember,Marlin Hy-steer, some other nifty shiznit, 98.5 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD 4x4, 4" exh, bully box, big fuel kit airaid intake, 02 YZ 250 GOT BEER? NORCALBMX.COM

05-02-2005, 09:30 AM	#3 (permalink)
m016324 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Member # 11256 Location: San Antonio Posts: 1,779	if you are super anal you can remove the exhaust manifold, but honestly there is no good reason to. If you take out the chips while you're drilling and pause before you break all the way through and clean out everything you're only going to have a couple little chips and the second that you start the engine it's going to blow them all out through the turbo. The miniscule amount of metal shavings that goes through the turbo isn't going to hurt it. As for where to put the pyro the closer to the engine the more accurate the temperatures. However the difference between putting it on the manifold (that's where I have mine) and putting it on the pipe to the turbo probably won't be very large. -ben

05-02-2005, 04:54 PM	#8 (permalink)
TR Zeus of the Sluice Join Date: Jan 2001 Member # 2877 Location: Gordonsville, Va Posts: 3,502	i just did mine this past weekend and i started with a greased 5/32 bit then a greased 5/16 bit and ended with a greased 7/16 bit and greased the tap up really good. then i just fired it up and the turbo is still spinning __________________ Penn State study finds that heavy drinking is 100% easier than giving a shit

05-02-2005, 07:29 PM	#9 (permalink)
bchesley Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Member # 12387 Location: Texas Posts: 135	I drilled mine until I almost broke through, cranked it up and finished drilling and it blew all the chips out. I then greased the tap and finished it up. I did regrease it twice. Had no problems so far and dont plan on any either!! Brad

05-02-2005, 07:58 PM	#10 (permalink)
weedwacker Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Member # 15945 Location: Savannah Ga. Redneck capital Posts: 1,689	I guess that makes me one of the anal retentive type. I pulled the turbo off pushed it over after loosening the down pipe, cleaned it out. Only takes a little longer. Stuff a rag past the drill point, vacume out pull rag, send a magnet down just to make sure. __________________ Pens and Paper for peace, help our troops win hearts and minds! - [url]http://www.freemanproject.org/about-the-project/our-mission[/url]

05-03-2005, 07:14 AM	#11 (permalink)
thump93yj Rock God Join Date: Nov 2002 Member # 14874 Location: FW/d Texas Posts: 1,066	4 bolts, loosten the turbo enough to slip some cardboard/posterboard or something in there and then vacuum the shavings out when your done. Not that much extra effort to be safe. __________________ -clint Secret black text says... Buy my Stuff! For Sale: Driveshaft

05-03-2005, 09:02 AM	#12 (permalink)
jwag Rock God Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7638 Location: norcal Posts: 1,095	I just ordered the gauges from John at Diesel Performance Shops and he confirmed that he leaves the engine running while drilling the manifold. The 20 or so psi of pressure pushes any chips out as you are drilling. He also sent a picture showing where to drill for a boost gauge on an LLY Duramax. Great guy to deal with. Attached Images

05-03-2005, 08:13 PM	#13 (permalink)
CTD600 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Member # 34536 Location: Keller, TX Posts: 166	Used grease on drill bit and tap last weekend. used magnet to clean up any leftover chips. no problems

05-03-2005, 10:15 PM	#14 (permalink)
Wildjeeper Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Member # 14836 Location: El Paso, Texas Posts: 258	Ditto, just use the oil and magnet.

05-04-2005, 06:23 AM	#15 (permalink)
Oxjockey Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Member # 7163 Location: PA Posts: 1,863	Could hold a shop vac there while you're drilling. I'd still crack the bolts on the turbo and put the paper or cardboard in there as mentioned.

05-06-2005, 06:18 PM	#17 (permalink)
swansong04 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Member # 27843 Posts: 7	when i did mine .. my wife controoled the shop -vac while i driller .. and just before i broke through i duct tapped my tailpipe and quickley started the truck and proceed to drill .. i am telling you i had a blast of exhaust through that hole !!! i am sure and filling came out !! simple stuff !!!! Good luck __________________ 1987 sas 4runner GEARED LOCKED AND READY FOR ROCK 2004.5 Dodge 3500 tow rig A friend helps you move ...... A good friend helps you move a body ...

05-07-2005, 10:10 PM	#18 (permalink)
dirtydury Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 39153 Posts: 211	I magnatized the drill bit, then put a shop vac on the whole. Then tapped it with grease, shop vac again. Just to be safe I magnatized a small allen key and swished it around in the whole till there were no more shavings. I've done it on 3 different trucks. No problems.

05-11-2005, 11:45 AM	#21 (permalink)
Jeepmangled87 ROCK & ROLL OFFROAD Join Date: Mar 2001 Member # 3906 Location: ROCK AND ROLL OFFROAD Dallas/Ft.Worth Tx. Posts: 6,130	just did mine last night, lots of greese, and the Edge instructions, say to start the motor right after you drill and let it run for 15 to 30 secs.

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