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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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TorkLift SuperHitch Extension ?
I've never seen one in person, but on the Torklift Extension hitch, is the extension 2"x2" x 1/4" wall, or is it 2x2 solid?
![]() I need a 28" extension to clear the rear of my camper, but puked at the price... $1500 cdn. If the extension is 2x2x1/4", then I'll make one... |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Member # 13268
Location: Hillsbororegon
Posts: 1,502
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I think the top is hollow and the bottom is solid.
Uhh...does that convert to about $1200 US?!?!?!? If I am doing that correctly, I can get it a LOT cheaper than that. I don't know about shipping it to you though. I can check on it if you want me to.
__________________
16543, 16593, 16676, 16736, 16858, 16940, 16987, 17091, 17157, 17298 I did...did you? |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Member # 422
Location: Roswell NM
Posts: 6,374
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Quote:
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Todd Steele TINBENDERS Formula Toy #006; Thanks to Deaver Spring, High Angle Driveline, Longfields, Rock Buggy Supply, PRP Seats, Marlin Crawler, Coast Motor Supply and RockStomper. [url=http://www.tinbenders.org]TinBenders.org[/url] |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Member # 2463
Location: Phoenix,az
Posts: 2,927
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Wolf,
I too couldn't stomach the price, plus I have a custom rear bumper on my PSD. Here's what I did, and I personally think it's a better design than the Torklift. Theirs is obviously made for less install hassle, but it only mounts to the bottom of the frame. On the Ford's, the rear of the frame isn't even boxed, which doesn't help to spread the weight. I made 3/8" plates 18" long that were cut to go around the rear shackle and spread the weight on the frame. To these plates 2.5" receiver stock was welded. The 3/8 plate is welded on both sides of the frame, and on the bottom where the Torklift would bolt. My custom bumper has two 2" reciever tubes, one on each side, that slide in and out of the 2.5". I pull the two 3/4" hitch pins in the pic and the whole bumper slides out. This lets me get my camper closer to the cab for my Happi Jack tiedowns. The rear mounts also have frame mounted tiedowns, front I have bed mounts with a stabilizer bar. I pull the pins and slide in the extension in the next pic. It is a 4' one, the amount of stress on these things is unbelievable. I'm actually bending drop hitches now. I suggest you plate your actual hitch before you run into the same thing. The leverage will literally start to bend the 3/4" steel that holds the ball on. Just a heads up, mine is doing it after only a dozen or so trips. I personally don't like the chain, I'd rather have a solid tube extension to spread the weight. Chain won't spread the weight or load. Take it for what it's worth, but try to spread the weight along the frame as much as possible. Top, bottom, sides, hit them all. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Member # 2463
Location: Phoenix,az
Posts: 2,927
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I just loaded up for the 4th weekend, and I'm not wheeling. I just left the bumper on. But when I tow, I pull out the pins you see above, there's one on each side. The whole bumper comes off with a tug. I then insert this thing into the two receiver tubes.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Finished:
Just took this 2000 KM over the Rogers pass, and down some back roads. Bent the jack over a couple times because the hitch is so long it tends to dig in when you go over a bump, but the hitch itself held up fine. I will be making it about 8 inches shorter as it doesn't ned to be quite as long, and ever bit shorter will put less stress. I'm also going to add another set of cross bars to tie into the rear camper tiedowns... This is the new secondary receiver. It bolts to the factory one, and also to the frame. It's removeable with 6 bolts. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Last edited by WOLF359; 07-04-2005 at 01:10 PM. |
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