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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Member # 14455
Location: TOO DAMN COLD LAKE
Posts: 2,233
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New rolling shop, but needs a new frame.
I got this from a government auction and know very little about the "metal workers trailer". What I do know about it is that there are all new tires (4) with it but there are only 2 hubs on in it and 1 of them is damaged from someone over eager with a punch. The front axle is a steering axle and the rear is fixed (ridgit) mounted. There is a rack for OXY-ACY with a reg and the rear folds down for a work bench with slide in trays for tools like a grinder and vise. I would like to make this street legal and I know that I am going to need to put new axles under it.
Others I have seen had diesel lighting units behind the work bench as well as diesel compressor which I am hoping are still there. I am not certain on what size axles to put under it but I am thinking that it should be at least 2500lb axles and leafs. I will also have to replace the existing yoke as it swivels 2 in places and would make it very difficult to back into something or help carry the load. I found a cheap source for tor-flex (3500lb) axles with brakes. I am just not all familar with mounting these types of axles and on a short trailer? Currently it is setup to be a wagon and I want to convert it to a trailer configuration for extended travel. My plan is to throw the existing hubs back on it just enough to drag it to my shop (200 yards) until I can get new axles for it and put proper trailer lighting on it. I also plan to mount a few jerry cans in it, a battery charger, 2 8D batteries to have a truly mobile shop. This should make a lot of space in my garage once all the tools in there are relocted into the trailer. How short is too short for a tandem axle trailer. I figure of the leading axle is just ahead of the trailer center that would be suffecient and I am going to copy my other trailer for the base. I will be cutting the bottom frame off of this unit and converting it to a 2x3 frame with tie in plates in 12" increments and a maine rail running the full lenght to accept a pintle eye.
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[URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=805235"]My new chassis build. 406SBC, 416 Mog axles, and 46's.[/URL] |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Mobile home axles are dime a dozen.
If the torflex axles can be set for drop axle, you could use the frame that is on it.
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2000 F250SD 4x4 PSD on 35s 1987 Jeep XJ 4L/AW4/231/D30/D44 just starting to build 21+yr US Navy Vet, haven't retired yet. Last edited by Stangrcr1; 11-05-2006 at 08:10 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Member # 14455
Location: TOO DAMN COLD LAKE
Posts: 2,233
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Here is what I wish I had the ability to pull, but until I get a diesel it is a way out yet. I would love to see my trailer (with the bottom sections cut off) mounted flush to the front of this trailer so that there is stil enough room to load a buggy on the back. Until the diesel is in the picture then I will have to make this a tandem unit.
![]() ![]() ![]() Anyone built a short trandem trailer? Any tips? As for using the existing frame would not work because it ends about 24" before the front where the existing yoke is butt welded to a drop bracket. The reason this is done is so that there is room for 3 nitrogen bottles under the reg. Where I thought the A&O set-up would be I just didn't know where they hid the Acy. This makes it very difficult to mount the leaf springs where I was planning as well as build a yoke I would trust to pull the weight I plan to have in it. This is the main reason for the new frame. I may be able to re-use some of the bins on the bottom though and mount my lights and batteries in them.
__________________
[URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=805235"]My new chassis build. 406SBC, 416 Mog axles, and 46's.[/URL] |
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