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Old 12-19-2006, 08:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Truck Sleeper Cab v2.0

Recap on the Toterhome - The uhaul RV has left for Va. and will be making its way to the LasVagas area after the new year with an older couple moving thier home and Mini coopers out west to retire..

So, I had been kicking around my other plans and what worked didn't etc & why.. I had considered building a box, mini truck camper, etc.. So i came full circle back to the sleeper cab plan. I ended up finding one i really liked for a decient price and ran up to Ohio (thanks Bruiser for barrowing your trailer) to get it..

Heres the new, dog house.. Its off a 97 Kenworth

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Plans call for a mini RV door on the front to start then go from there.. Also thinking a fold up/down wind screen on the front that will be suspended out over the toung (above the truck box) that will function as a mini awning when up.


Ok.... So im looking at getting a 20' w/2x6000# axles, I'm set on the tag trailer option as I will need to ability to front manauver the trailer with my current parking situation. That and i really don't want a gooseneck.. So that leads me to the current issue. I am looking at having a local guy (RockCity) build it for me ($$maybe$$) I need to provide some input on axle setback etc.. I have a new WD hitch setup so that I will use. so.....

I have 3 modes that I need to be able to tow in:
1) Empty trailer or Jeep only
2) Sleeper only
3) Sleeper and Jeep

#1 - I think that if I can get the trailer empty to have ~400# toung that will cover me there.. And I can adjust the jeep placment on an empty trailer np.

#2 - Using 1000# with only the Sleeper on the front that takes me to 1500# tonge. High est. as I know some weight will shift to the trailer axles. And the WD hitch should carry me. One option was to make an alternate mounting spot for the infrequent possibility that I do haul just the sleeper..

#3 - Sleeper and Jeep - since I will only have a few feet to adjust the jeep. (my jeep is 52/48 balanced) I was kicking aorund the idea of how to make the axles on a small tray that could be moved to find the optimal balance point for the fully loaded configuration.

Would some 3" angle bolted to the frame then the spring hangers/idler welded to that work ? Was thinking if the inside frame was plated a U shaped tray could be made to slide on the frame rail than bolted ?



Sorry I forgot whos this is.. but how is the tonge weight ? (when the jeep is off)

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Some more of the sleeper..


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Old 12-19-2006, 08:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I wonder how many lot lizards got shagged in that thing?
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Old 12-19-2006, 09:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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LOL - Lets just say we'll be springing for a new matress, washing the curtains and ill be sanitizing the inside, good thing its mostly vinyl interior
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Old 12-19-2006, 10:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Would one of those fit behind a pickup cab say on a dually frame without the bed- used commercial truck deal?

Also, what does something like that go for?
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Old 12-19-2006, 12:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've often thought of getting a Crew Cab Truck and swapping out the cab for a single cab,then putting a sleeper like that on followed by a short pickup bed behind that.

But, I like having the space behind my seat to throw my grandkids, jacket and junk, so I dismissed the idea.

I thought you sold the U Haul to get the side of the yard opened up again. And now your talking about putting a trailer in there. Harder to move a trailer than the U Haul I would think.

But, hey what do I know. Only got 5 acres to park my junk on.

I gotta say though, I enjoy your innovation.

Waiting to see how this one turns out.


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Old 12-19-2006, 01:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustard Dog View Post
I wonder how many lot lizards got shagged in that thing?
We had a club show and shine at a local auto parts store.

Truck showed up to deliver the good. girl that worked there came out and hopped in to deliver her goods.

she came back out of the truck with a sheepish looking grin and a shirt not tucked in in the back. sheepish - because we all watched her hop in the truck, leave, return, and hop back out with a big grin on her face.
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Old 12-19-2006, 06:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I know im a habitual project starter...

ok, so do they make kootie spray bombs ? LOL

I paid $600 for the box. On a trailer it will be lower than the overhang on the house so that frees up more maeuvering space... Plus the RV was 32' long with a 10' overhang on the back, and I was backing up between my house and a small wall.. Ive put trailers in my yard before np.. The problem is when i hit the street all my fucking neighbors vehicles..
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Old 12-19-2006, 06:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Go and look at OTR trailers, specifically 53' van trailers. They have a pin/slider setup so the axles can be unpinned, trailer brakes applied, and tractor pulled forward or back, then repinned, changing weight transfer. I know this is done with either leaf springs or air ride suspension. Good luck. Or even look at the 5th wheel on OTR trucks, they have a slider/lock setup that may be copied for your trailer.

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Old 12-20-2006, 02:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hey Mike - I have a semi trailer sitting in the pasture at my in-laws house on 751 now, to store all the crap that used to be in my barn at the old house. You are welcome to check out how that pinned-slider thing works to make the axles adjustable (we can't actually adjust it, but we can look at it all you want to). But there might be other semi trailers closer to you than my place is.
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Old 12-20-2006, 01:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Glad I could help.. now get a trailer so we can go wheeling
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Old 12-20-2006, 03:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ya, HUGE thanks ken for not only delivering your trailer to my house, letting me put 1200 miles on it to drag this thing home, THEN coming over with john and greg? to help me unload it, and picking up your trailer... I'm just waiting for you to say your ready to start your garage project..


I've seen the big rig sliders i was just curious if anyone had seen it impliemented on a smaller trailer, also not wanting to add any height to the trailer..
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Old 12-20-2006, 03:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Ya, HUGE thanks ken for not only delivering your trailer to my house, letting me put 1200 miles on it to drag this thing home, THEN coming over with john and Scott to help me unload it, and picking up your trailer so you can take it home... I'm just waiting for you to say your ready to start your garage project....

We in the Carolina's call that SERVICE with a Smile


hehehhe
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Old 01-28-2007, 12:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Picked up my new trailer...

They built it to my specs...
It's a (name removed) brand 22'x82" open center 5" channel frame w/ 5" wrap around tongue.
2- 6k brake axles w/ 16" radial 10plys.
Had them rate it to 9990#
Ramps in a tray in the rear center are pined and can be locked.
Rubber mounted lights on the rear.
Drop leg mounted near the tongue so i have camper door room.
Tongue pulled out some extra. 4.5' from deck to ball..
Got spare tire loose so i could figure out where I wanted to mount it..
6' radiused dove in the back..
deck height is 24"

Oh ya I filled up and scaled my truck at a truckstop on the way to get it then on the way back.. So with spare and all it weighs 2750# and ~320# tongue weight.

Out the door w/ permanent tag title and tax was $3095

Need to make a few mods to get the sleeper up on there. and as typical with kraftsman the wiring sucks and I need to put a decent whip/harness plug on it. (I was expecting this... They use good wire but use those skotchlock crimp connectors)

[rant]To be honest no body wires a trailer how I would so no sense paying extra for they to even try.. When i have any trouble I will rerun separate brake wires to the tounge and put a small switch box up there to allow easy problem determination or isolation. [/rant]

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Old 01-28-2007, 04:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Man you sure don't play around do you? I didn't even realize you got rid of the U-haul and you're already building the new project.

That's a good looking trailer but those front corners with the channel turned towards the front looks like a shin killer just looking for a victim, those corners look pretty sharp too.

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Old 01-28-2007, 08:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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this looks like it's gonna be pretty cool...just like your u-haul build

Iv'e never been inside a sleeper cab...your's looks like it's just a bed but I thought Iv'e seen pics of them with microwaves, fridges, ect...how are you plannin to set yours up?


I would think one of these would be way over $600...is that in line or more of a sceamin deal?
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Old 01-29-2007, 06:50 AM   #16 (permalink)
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mine has a small 'closet' but ill be building in some shelfs and such, i already pickedup a small microwave that i got in the post x-mass sales.. This one has those upper shelfs and that odd looking corner section where a TV would go..

I did get my RV door to install.. I just need to DO IT..

Price.... It really just depends.. Sometimes they really don't bring alot.. It depends on how they are stored, if they are in the way etc.. This one is in good shape inside. Ive seen them goto hell fast if left out exsposed.. This one even had some evidence of some birds atempting to setup home.. As ive explained to others, its a very limited/narrow market to sell a sleeper.. You have to 'want' one or 'need' one.. Many of the newer ones are semi integratd as mine is, where the front enguages the truck, that further limits possible reuse for people.. BUT all that makes it good for this kind of use..

For more general pics of the camper goto my web site.. camper.yager.net for now im just dumping pics out there...

A pic of my door.. and a few more reference pics of the inside.

BTW: I sold the heater/ac unit on ebay for $50 +$20 for the control panel I plan to put an AC unit there and duct it out the bottom..
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Old 02-07-2007, 05:55 AM   #17 (permalink)
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When I was still truckin' I put a shower in my sleeper.

Used a large laundry sink thru the bottom, and rigged the bunk to fold up out of the way.Put the shower curtain on a conduit rectangle.

Just fold up the bunk, step into the sink, raise the shower curtain, hook it to the roof, hose off and presto!
clean again, ready for another day.

My sleeper was a flat top, so I had to recess the sink thru the floor about 3/4 inch above the driveshaft.

You could use a small propane powered water heater form a camper. I just dropped the sleeper heater core in a 10 gallon water tank.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:53 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I can fully understand you wanting a shower for your truckn days.. We typically stay at places that have a shower house or at a minimum a water faucet for a quick rinse..

I've pondered later on I may put a utility sink off the back side and an RV outdoor shower thing with a future water heater setup..

My goal for this year is to actually make more trips and not focus on the upgrades until later..
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:23 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Update: Been making good progress on the sleeper camper project, just haven't been posting updates

I got some drop leg jacks from HF ~$25 each, they aren't top quality but work great for this.. I made the reciever plates and welded them to the bottom of the sleeper frame... The original plan was to jack/lift the sleeper up over the wheels and back under it.. I had the jack stand offs suck that it would clear.. But the whole setup was shaky at best and I wasn't happy with it.. After some thinking it occurred to me that I don't have a straight enough section of driveway to backup and do that operation anyway.. SO I had the bright idea to just front load the camper.. I had Ken Carter and John Herr over to help with the operation and we trimmed down the jack stick-outs by 10" and re-drilled the pin holes.. This greatly improved the stability of the sleeper on the jacks and will be my permanent setup.

We jacked the sleeper and removed the dolly. With the front trailer drop leg all the way up the equalizer was kicked all the way + the spare on the back end.. it really offset the tongue weight by balancing the trailer on the front axle. So we only had to raise the sleep 24" to clear trailer front jack. John literally pushed the trailer under the sleeper with minimal effort.. Not as difficult or exciting as I was expecting.. I cut some rubber boat roller into pucks and we set the sleeper down on the front... Perfect !!

I started on boxing the front in. I got the plywood cut and door opening trimmed. I've got 2 coats epoxy on it now, and waiting on some fiberglass mat to finish it up.. I've also got the top arc cut and glassed, i need to finish the glassing and attach it. The soffit piece will be fit later.. I plan to add some lights up under there..

More later
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:27 AM   #20 (permalink)
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few more
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Old 03-30-2007, 08:06 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Sweet!

Subscribed. Keep the updates comming.
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Glad we could help again..

Can't wait till May so we can see it on the road.. ready to go..
that is gonna be a fun road trip with all of us and our camper setups
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:21 AM   #23 (permalink)
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made up the mounts to hold the camper to the trailer.. some 1/4" plate along with 1/2" bolts and rubber bushings should keep it on there..

ken, get your gun out, Ill be ready to paint it in a few weeks !!

I will definitely be making a URE test run to see how it all does..
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Old 04-03-2007, 09:05 PM   #24 (permalink)
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What are the outside dimensions of that sleeper? I really like that idea, but Im not sure it will fit on my trailer, and still allow me to pull the jeep up behind it.
Looks killer dude!
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Old 04-03-2007, 11:21 PM   #25 (permalink)
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You aren't planning on using the Optima as your inverter battery, are you? I understand the benefits of an Optima (I sell batteries for a living), but I think you'll be quickly disappointed unless your electrical needs are really really light. The name of the game is amp hour capacity. An Optima like yours might be rated at 55 AH. A pair of GC2 6 volt golf cart batteries will start at 190 and work their way on up. They will also last a lot longer. Again, it all depends on what your actual electrical needs are, but a small 800 watt microwave is going to draw 66 amps on the 12 volt side...couple that with inverter losses and you're looking at 70 amps on the 12 volt side. Even if it isn't for a long period of time a draw like that is going to bring a battery down in a hurry. 10 amps for 20 hours is 200 amp hours. So is 20 amps for 10 hours, but it will draw a battery down lower to run the higher load for a shorter period of time. It's just a property of the darned things.
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