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Old 04-18-2007, 07:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Towing with a K5

I've got a 1989 K5 that I want to use to haul my 7500lbs trailer (both axles have brakes). My plan is to swap in a 14 bolt diff and a heavier leaf pack in the rear. Has anyone here towed at highway speeds with a short wheelbase rig? Is it all over the road? My only other tow rig is one of our Freightliner's, but I drive one every day and would rather not be in them on weekends too. Any advice is appreciated!
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Old 04-18-2007, 08:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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According to the brochure from GM for my 89 Blazer, a "properly equipped blazer" has a GCVR of 12k lbs. I'm thinkin' you're gonna be over that. My blazer tips the scales at 4800lbs empty.
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Old 04-18-2007, 08:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I had an 89 K5 with 32s on it, otherwise stock. Most of the time I just towed a sports quad but I also towed my freind's Mustang to the race track on an ex-uhaul trailer. I'm guessing we were around 6k in extra weight. It was slow, didn't sway or bounce, but the braking sucked.
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Old 04-19-2007, 04:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I've towed a '94 Isuzu Trooper on my trailer before but nothing as heavy as my Jimmy. I'm thinking of removing the door guts, tailgate and cap on the wheeler to loose weight, do you think it'll help? Anything else that's useless and heavy on a K5 that I can remove?
After all of this if it's still unsafe there's a '91 Suburban I've been eying up...


Thanks again
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Old 04-19-2007, 04:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89smurf View Post
According to the brochure from GM for my 89 Blazer, a "properly equipped blazer" has a GCVR of 12k lbs. I'm thinkin' you're gonna be over that. My blazer tips the scales at 4800lbs empty.
I must be confused, my 1 ton motor home has a GCVR of only 10500lbs, am I reading the tags wrong? I'll check the K5 today. Either way, either vehicle, I'll be over weight...
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Old 04-19-2007, 09:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My uncle used to tow his 28' travel trailer with his 69 K5, never had any problems. He used a weight dist hitch and both axles had brakes. This was also not his primary tow rig, he just used it when he went hunting for a week or more so he could use the blazer in the woods. So don't get all down with the weight police comments.
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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A Suburban is nicer if you can get one. I towed a lot with my stock 1990 K5. It got the job done, but things would get squirrely sometimes. I towed up to 6000 lbs with it (mainly because I was young, that was what I had to tow with, and I didn't know any better). Proper trailer weight distribution is critical on the K5, you don't want the trailer to sway at all.

My 1990 Burb tows way better. The trailer moves the K5 around, but with the Burb you can't feel that the trailer's back there. Both are 1/2-tons, so I'm just comparing difference in weight/wheelbase - axles/brakes/springs are the same.
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Old 04-19-2007, 04:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i know it's not a blazer but, it's very close to the same wheel base.
i tow my xtracab yota (3800#'s) with a 95 chevy c1500, short bed ,single cab, 350, 5spd on a 2000# car hauler. It's not the fastest but, as long as i put enough tounge weight on it, it tows comfortably. I'm stupid for not doing it yet but, i havn't added a brake controller so, i only use the brakes on the truck.
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Old 04-22-2007, 05:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm thinking of removing the door guts, tailgate and cap on the wheeler to loose weight, do you think it'll help? Anything else that's useless and heavy on a K5 that I can remove?

id remove that stuff anyway. im of the opinion that a trail rig should have as little sprung weight as possible. unpsrung weight(bigger axles) add beef and can help you find traction,but sprung weight rarely does anything good for you

105" WB blazer is not the optimal tow rig,but that doesnt mean it wont suit your needs. load the trailer properly,use a good brake controller with brakes on both axles and drive like you have some sense and youll be fine. a WD hitch with sway control im sure would make it feel alot more stable,but you could prolly get away without it.

the 14 bolt/spring pack swap is a good idea. get it from a 3/4 ton truck and it will bolt right in. if you want a softer spring for a decent ride when the trailers not there,look into a set of airbags.

ive got it in my head that someday im gonna build a blazer with a C&C dually axle,1 ton springs and hangers,no top and a gooseneck ball right overtop of the axle. its whole purpose would be to manuver trailers around in tight quarters and run shit back and forth to the shredder. the yard is alittle tight,so it can be tricky to turn my crew cab around in there

a SWB workhorse would not be a great idea for long hauls with heavy loads,but would be really useful in alot of other situations
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Old 04-22-2007, 07:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
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i have a club member that pulls his 1-Ton CJ-7, i think it is crazy to pull with that short of a wheel base,

i just think it is wrong, and Dumb, to much can go wrong, way to fast, when it happens. jack knifing or some thing...IMO
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Old 04-22-2007, 09:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Never had a problem with the bronco's, but wasn't ever in a panic stop situation. Short wheel base just can't compete with lenght of a pickup.

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Old 04-22-2007, 10:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You can do it just be safe but in all honesty I could get a dedicated truck set up for that much weight.
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Old 04-22-2007, 10:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The part that would worry me would be if you were planning on hauling on the FTR (40, 41, 940, 734 etc.) or on any of the many offshoots.
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