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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7056
Location: Reno
Posts: 57
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Ok I got tired of sleeping in tents when we go out in the desert and last night I bought a new (to me) 30' class A. It has a welded hitch rated class V but the rig is only rated to tow 4500 pounds. I wheel a grand cherokee (long arms, etc.) so now I need to drag it behind the RV. I messured and from the shackles on my bumber to the hitch on the RV is about 24" vertical difference. All the tow bars I have seen are supposed to run horizontal (+ or - 3"). Any Ideas on how to fab up a tow bar that would work? I don't like the idea of flipping a 20" drop hitch off the RV seems like way too much leverage.
and don't say I need a trailer. My rig is allready over wieght to pull behind the RV, much more so if I added a 1500# trailer. Thanks JEff
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Not your average grocery getter. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5745
Location: Buena Park, CA
Posts: 265
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Tow Hitch
I flat tow my fj40 everywhere....I tow it with a dodge ram 1500 2001. I had to flip my hitch upsidedown it is about 8". I havent had any problem with it...i think the leverage thing would be the same amount weather it is right side up or not...the best thing is to go ahead and tow it locally and see how it does...i do agree that it has to be as horizontal as possible....the only other thing would be to lower the mounts on the towed rig, i have seen some cars being towed behind RVs that had a device mounted below the car that the tow bar connected to..hope this helps
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Member # 422
Location: Roswell NM
Posts: 6,374
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I have a pin together tow bar from WalMart that drops about 6-8", then I've got my 4" drop receiver bar upside down for 6" of lift. It makes the hitch level with the ball on my dually.
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Todd Steele TINBENDERS Formula Toy #006; Thanks to Deaver Spring, High Angle Driveline, Longfields, Rock Buggy Supply, PRP Seats, Marlin Crawler, Coast Motor Supply and RockStomper. [url=http://www.tinbenders.org]TinBenders.org[/url] |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7056
Location: Reno
Posts: 57
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Thanks for the replies,
Mark, you use a 24" drop hitch flipped? Guess I don't have to much to worry about. Did you use any bracing on your drop hitch? I am thinking of welding up a drop (lift) hitch and using reciever stock instead of a ball, so that I actually wind up with a reciever 24" up from the current location, that would allow a surge brake in the new removable reciever, and be dead level with my current d-rings so I can rig a tow bar off the existing tow points. Just not sure now how to brace it without it sticking to far out the back. Thanks again for the advice Jeff |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Well Done Man!
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The reciver part is solid 2x2
the tounge is 3/4 plate with a bend at the top, and a 3/4 plate uses as a brace along the front of it. I wish i had a pic
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Mark 71 Bronco. 42's and bolt on goats. 47' CJ2a, 302, C4, 33's. 2012, year of the flat fender. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Member # 7412
Location: ft worth texas, aguilar colorado
Posts: 3,564
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you need to be carefull with that motor home, they have a very long over hang and some time you can turn to quick and get the towed rig wheels cocked off all the way right or left. i have seen it happed many times. other wise have get it. mike
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i would rather be spanking the monkey offroad 99 Durango sitting on tons and fortys |
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