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Old 02-27-2008, 05:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Dirty*Max Build

Well, it's time for some mods to the D*Max. Yes it's the Dirty Sanchez Duramax Build . My main plans for the truck are increased fuel mileage & drivetrain longevity & some family comfort. Like I mentioned in my other thread, it came with a K&N intake & 3.5" straight pipe & 285 BFGs.

So far, I've added an iPOD 80 gb classic for tunes. Only other things so far are full synthetics courtesy of Amsoil which includes 15w40 motor oil, ATF, 75W90, bypass filter (good for 25K oil change intervals), petcock valve, and an Amsoil air filter to replace the K&N one.

So things pending are:
Mag Hytech tranny pan & diff cover
Dual gauge pod with boost & pyro (would like the cobalts)
Rear d-shaft ujoints
PPE standard (225 hp level 4)
Transgo for the Allison
Gooseneck/Hitch...haven't decided
Black powdercoat the wheels
Mount the spare in the bed
Bedliner in the bed
TTT tow mirrors
Torsion keys with Bilsteins
NFabs or GoRhinos
DVD Player with 2 10s in a box under the rear seat
5" turboback Farmboy's diesel exhaust with 6" tip
Transfer Flow 40 gallon tank/toolbox
BD full bore exhaust manifold

That's all for now...let's see how everything plans out





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Old 02-27-2008, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You'll need a lot more than just a transgo if you want to run a big ppe tune. A full tranny, converter and lift pump.

Also, why mount the spare in the bed? It'll just be a big 4x4 car when you're done.

Key's are bullshit. Just crank your torsion bars to the nuts and run bilsteins. Buy longer bolts if you want more crank. New keys are just re-indexed at a different plane, but give the same effect.

Mag Hytec is just bling. But if that's what you're after then get it.

Again, I'd rather have a bigger tank under the truck than a bigger tank in the bed. Buy or make the biggest tank you can get under the truck, you'll thank youself later.

Why buy a hitch you don't need if you don't own a trailer.

I run 12.9 on a stock 3.5" exhaust. I run 12.3 on a 4". 5" exhaust is just loud. You'll also run into clearance problems also with a bigger exhaust and no lift.

Why new U-joints? I've run 660 horse through my joints (first at 15,000) and I'm at 100,000 miles. Most of that at 500 everyday straight diesel power.
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Old 02-27-2008, 07:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hijack: Are amsoil 25,000 oil change intervals still a good idea on high soot applications? The kind that'll dirty stock oil in 300 miles of a big tune? Or do those filters still keep oil gold?
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You'll need a lot more than just a transgo if you want to run a big ppe tune. A full tranny, converter and lift pump.

Also, why mount the spare in the bed? It'll just be a big 4x4 car when you're done.

Key's are bullshit. Just crank your torsion bars to the nuts and run bilsteins. Buy longer bolts if you want more crank. New keys are just re-indexed at a different plane, but give the same effect.

Mag Hytec is just bling. But if that's what you're after then get it.

Again, I'd rather have a bigger tank under the truck than a bigger tank in the bed. Buy or make the biggest tank you can get under the truck, you'll thank youself later.

Why buy a hitch you don't need if you don't own a trailer.

I run 12.9 on a stock 3.5" exhaust. I run 12.3 on a 4". 5" exhaust is just loud. You'll also run into clearance problems also with a bigger exhaust and no lift.

Why new U-joints? I've run 660 horse through my joints (first at 15,000) and I'm at 100,000 miles. Most of that at 500 everyday straight diesel power.
Ok to answer your questions on my build, where's it's my rig & want to add mods that I think are beneficial.

Tranny will be fine...I don't know why so many guys insist that you need a Suncoast IV with anything adding more thatn 50 hp.

I'm planning to move the spare to the bed b/c I hate the way the spare tire hangs down & looks, total bullshit to have it hanging there.

I have the torsion bars cranked right now & that's even more bullshit, every bump feels like a fuckin' rollercoaster ride. But who knows, I might just leave it as is but the Bilsteins are for sure.

Mag Hytec isn't for bling, I'd just like to add more lube capacity.

& I'd rather have a tank/toolbox in the bed

See sig to see what I'll be towing...hence the need for a hitch.

I'm still debating on the exhaust, but I do want it louder.

When I get a chance, I'll snap some pics of my crusty, rusted u-joints...

I think that's got it all covered.



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Hijack: Are amsoil 25,000 oil change intervals still a good idea on high soot applications? The kind that'll dirty stock oil in 300 miles of a big tune? Or do those filters still keep oil gold?
I don't plan to go that long without changing out the oil, but it's nice to know...
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Let me know how that tranny works out for you. Although I'm speaking from experience and you're speaking from a "gut feeling" I'm sure things will come together for suncoast in the end.

The spare looks even worse strapped down to a load of whatever you haul in your bed, rather than under your bed where it belongs.

Changing keys to get the same ride height will not change the ride of your truck. Torsion, is torsion, reguardless of moment on the particular key. That's pretty straight forward.

Mag hytec is hype/bling. I dare you to run a temp guage in your diffs to determine whether the extra capacity is worth it. You'd be further ahead making some hytec stickers for your stock covers than running that garbage.

Waste your money how you like. I know I like to learn from other's experience though


P.S. send your old U-joints my way when you're done pulling them.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I know for a fact that the Dana 80 in my truck runs 20-30 degrees cooler after the installation of a bigger finned diff cover. 180 versus 200/210 when towing with a GCW of 35,200 lbs. Granted thats alot of weight, but a bigger capacity did reduce the fluid temps in my application.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Let me know how that tranny works out for you. Although I'm speaking from experience and you're speaking from a "gut feeling" I'm sure things will come together for suncoast in the end.

The spare looks even worse strapped down to a load of whatever you haul in your bed, rather than under your bed where it belongs.

Changing keys to get the same ride height will not change the ride of your truck. Torsion, is torsion, reguardless of moment on the particular key. That's pretty straight forward.

Mag hytec is hype/bling. I dare you to run a temp guage in your diffs to determine whether the extra capacity is worth it. You'd be further ahead making some hytec stickers for your stock covers than running that garbage.

Waste your money how you like. I know I like to learn from other's experience though


P.S. send your old U-joints my way when you're done pulling them.

I sure will. Thanks for looking at my build. Send me payment for the ujoints & I'll be happy to send them your way. You sound like some of the guys over on dieselplace that just bitch & moan...& I've only been a member there for a couple of months.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Really? You sound like one of the noobs on dieselplace that get all tore up when somebody that's been doing this shit for 6 years longer than them offers advice and the hammerhead noob doesn't take the advice because it doesn't coincide with their plans.

Send em C.O.D.
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Old 02-27-2008, 09:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I will politely agree with the trans statement. yours trans will not last long with a larger tune unless you baby the crap out of it (which you won't because why would you with all that HP)

I've got EFI and a Suncoast III now. the stock trans was not happy with the EFI and I'm not making as much power as MR4WD.

if you run a plug-in box (hypertec/ superchips,etc......) then you're much better off, but you can still limp a stock trans with those if not careful.

good luck with your plans

make sure the pyrometer is one of your first mods. BTW, nice d-max. mine is a 2002 LB7
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Old 02-27-2008, 09:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Send em C.O.D.



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I will politely agree with the trans statement. yours trans will not last long with a larger tune unless you baby the crap out of it (which you won't because why would you with all that HP)

I've got EFI and a Suncoast III now. the stock trans was not happy with the EFI and I'm not making as much power as MR4WD.

if you run a plug-in box (hypertec/ superchips,etc......) then you're much better off, but you can still limp a stock trans with those if not careful.

good luck with your plans

make sure the pyrometer is one of your first mods. BTW, nice d-max. mine is a 2002 LB7
when it blows i'll drop in a 700r4 thanks for the info
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Old 02-28-2008, 11:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Well, it's time for some mods to the D*Max. Yes it's the Dirty Sanchez Duramax Build
Alright, so I'll ask... what does building up your Duramax have to do with a Mexican moustache shit-stain? Are you the top or the bottom? Do you know the guy from Bang Bus, or maybe like Zeke's music?

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My main plans for the truck are increased fuel mileage & drivetrain longevity & some family comfort.
Sounds kinda uncomfortable to me.

The fuel, tranny, and exhaust mods seem functional... most everything else is for show... do you take your Dirty Sanchez out on the town to show off?

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Changing keys to get the same ride height will not change the ride of your truck. Torsion, is torsion, reguardless of moment on the particular key. That's pretty straight forward.
Torsion is torsion, right up until you're out of the range of travel for the suspension. Do a vector drawing to see the difference between flattish suspension rotating around the pivot and imparting most movement to the shock at one end of the swing-arm, versus loading the frame at the bushing end of the swing-arm. As you rotate that swing-arm away from vertical, ride harshness inarguably suffers even with grade 12 hardware.

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Old 02-28-2008, 08:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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and also why would you only go with a pyro, and boost gauge if you are getting the PPE tune. especiallly if you are only going to be running a different valvebody in the allison, and not a full built tranny. oh and if the chevy's already have a tranny temp gauge in them from the factory please disreguard this post. I come from the world of 7.3L PSD's
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Old 02-28-2008, 08:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Torsion is torsion, right up until you're out of the range of travel for the suspension. Do a vector drawing to see the difference between flattish suspension rotating around the pivot and imparting most movement to the shock at one end of the swing-arm, versus loading the frame at the bushing end of the swing-arm. As you rotate that swing-arm away from vertical, ride harshness inarguably suffers even with grade 12 hardware.

Randii
You DO know what new torsion keys do, right? You're preaching to the choir. Adding reindexed keys only put the keys in a new plane while keeping the same torsion (less bolt hangs out of the cam to get the desired lift) go fuck your mother : ).

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Old 02-28-2008, 09:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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do you even have any tuner or anything on it now cuz my 03 cant even hold a 135hp tuner the trans slips and gives all over the place. personally if your in the trans might as well do it right the 1st time I think thats what everyone one else is trying to get you to understand. as for the spare in your bed it looks cool if your bombing through the desert but not practical for daily driving. just my opinion though do as you please just dont whine when it dont go right for ya.
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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do you even have any tuner or anything on it now cuz my 03 cant even hold a 135hp tuner the trans slips and gives all over the place. personally if your in the trans might as well do it right the 1st time I think thats what everyone one else is trying to get you to understand. as for the spare in your bed it looks cool if your bombing through the desert but not practical for daily driving. just my opinion though do as you please just dont whine when it dont go right for ya.
IIRC, the 6 speed Allisons hold power better. Not tons better, but they do.
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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and also why would you only go with a pyro, and boost gauge if you are getting the PPE tune. especiallly if you are only going to be running a different valvebody in the allison, and not a full built tranny. oh and if the chevy's already have a tranny temp gauge in them from the factory please disreguard this post. I come from the world of 7.3L PSD's
Duramax's with the Allison have a tranny temp gauge in the cluster. Don't know about the manuals though.
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:17 PM   #17 (permalink)
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heard the 6s do but hate to see people throw money away when it could be done right the 1st time.
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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heard the 6s do but hate to see people throw money away when it could be done right the 1st time.
Meh...I'm going to put a mild tune (100hp max) on my 06 Duramax, I'm not big on racing and live on a mountain so I'm not to worried about the tranny. I'll be doing a Transgo anyways, but sub 100hp most people will be fine.
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Old 02-28-2008, 11:41 PM   #19 (permalink)
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You DO know what new torsion keys do, right? You're preaching to the choir. Adding reindexed keys only put the keys in a new plane while keeping the same torsion (less bolt hangs out of the cam to get the desired lift) go fuck your mother : ).
Dammit, I was having too much fun poking fun at the tuck name and I missed the first sentence of the context... Changing keys to get the same ride height will not change the ride of your truck. Nicely played :blackgrin:.

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Old 02-29-2008, 12:39 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Dammit, I was having too much fun poking fun at the tuck name and I missed the first sentence of the context... Changing keys to get the same ride height will not change the ride of your truck. Nicely played :blackgrin:.

Randii

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The only thing new keys will do is allow u to get more adjustment than what your stock will do. This will only give u a rougher ride and put more stress on your CV's and balljoints. Unless u need the adjustment to get alignment right, this would be the only benefit.

Other than that, cool upgrades. If things don't workout on somethings, mark it up as a learning process.
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Old 02-29-2008, 09:27 AM   #21 (permalink)
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nevermind this thread, it's bringing the I'll just do as I please
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Old 02-29-2008, 02:17 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Put the UCAs on the truck if you want to crank the torsion bars. The bilsteins help a lot. Go with the FS2500 oil bypass if you want to go 25K between changes. It is the only one that actually works. 225 hp from PPE is flywheel hp, 50/50 chance of your tranny holding (if your go easy). Thats no joke. Go ahead and get the real PPE so you got real power when it does burn the tranny. Good luck with your build. I started and can't stop now. I spend more time on my Dmax than my buggy!
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Old 02-29-2008, 02:18 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Good looking truck by the way!
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Old 02-29-2008, 04:42 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Old 02-29-2008, 05:59 PM   #25 (permalink)
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