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Old 04-10-2008, 01:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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turning a jeeps back end into a trailer.

been searchin all night and cant find chit. any one have info on turnin the back half of a jeep into a trailer? i have my hands on a free jeep tub that the front was ripped off in a crash but doors back is fine. thinkin bout turnin it into a trailer. if i do ill post up. my big question is about axle's what should i use and do i need trailer brakes? ill be towin with my jeep and only to the trail and on the trail
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Old 04-10-2008, 04:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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A single axle (depending on state) Does not need brakes, adding some surge brakes would be nice though.
I'd use an Jeep Axle that came under that old tub, I mean most people toss the stock axles so they should be near free.
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Also depending on the rear axle your running on your rig you could run the same on the trailer and have a whole spare set-up.
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Old 04-11-2008, 02:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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if you're in CA like your location,

It's 3000 lbs on a regular trailer or semi trailer (your are building a semi-trailer).

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc26302.htm

Trailers

26302. (a) Every trailer or semitrailer, manufactured and first registered after January 1, 1940, and having a gross weight of 6,000 pounds or more and which is operated at a speed of 20 miles per hour or over shall be equipped with brakes.

(b) Every trailer or semitrailer manufactured and first registered after January 1, 1966, and having a gross weight of 3,000 pounds or more shall be equipped with brakes on at least two wheels.

(c) Every trailer or semitrailer manufactured after January 1, 1982, and equipped with air brakes shall be equipped with brakes on all wheels.

(d) Brakes required on trailers or semitrailers shall be adequate, supplemental to the brakes on the towing vehicle, to enable the combination of vehicles to comply with the stopping distance requirements of Section 26454.

(e) The provisions of this section shall not apply to any vehicle being used to support the boom or mast attached to a mobile crane or shovel.
Amended Ch. 774, Stats. 1981. Effective January 1, 1982.


1500 lbs or more requires brakes for "camp trailers".

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc26303.htm

Trailer Coaches and Camp Trailers

26303. Every trailer coach and every camp trailer having a gross weight of 1,500 pounds or more, but exclusive of passengers, shall be equipped with brakes on at least two wheels which are adequate, supplemental to the brakes on the towing vehicle, to enable the combination of vehicles to comply with the stopping distance requirements of Section 26454.

Amended Ch. 1536, Stats. 1971. Operative May 3, 1972.



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Old 04-11-2008, 03:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i made this to haul our boy scout camping stuff. it is really tongue heavy to say the least. Itís not big enough for all of the stuff but itís a start and I can stack plenty of firewood or other things in the front basket. It will also hold to forklift bottles and a grill bottle of propane on the front. Remember I said it was really tongue heavy.
I can be converted back to a good working tin top. And if anyone would like to trade me an enclosed trailer I will swap you out of it








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Old 04-11-2008, 05:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok, this is what I would do.....

Find a 5 on 5.5 pattern old hayes and/or mobile home axle. Switch out the backing plates with new Dexter brakes. They are a 12x2 brake. This will give you a beefy axle that won't bend in the rocks, lot's of clearance, and only have to carry one spare. Use electric brakes and install a controller in the your Jeep. This way you have positive controll of the trailer brakes. That controll will come in very handy when manuvering around in tight trails. Get used to locking the trailer brakes when turning going forward and when backing up to help jack knife the trailer and you'll love having them. It's kinda like being able to do front and rear burns with a twin stick case.

I always wanted to do my own setup using two brake controllers, one for each wheel. Then I could reach down and lock up or just drag one when cornering. Anyhow...

I had a guy trade me a 1947 CJ-2B frame w/ title for building him a 2x4x.120 tube frame w/ suspension and non-braking axle for the same thing. He used from the firewall back, and welded in some panel to fill in the door opening's. It's turned out ok, not really my thing, but he sure liked it. I used a 3.5k axle with a 5 on 5.5 pattern on it. Oh yeah, that 47 CJ title.....well, my buggy is now registered as a 1947 Willy's.
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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helpfull as always. the tub is off an 06 rubicon thats the same color as my jeep. the front was crushed and ripped in an accidentand he was just partin it out and gave me the tub for free and the frame bein the frame plit up front and the front of the tub is Fed up to say the least. here is a pic of what i plan to build it like.



i have a spare 35 lyin around... but would the diff cuase a prob and then the brakes would have to use my MC so im thinkin trailer straight axle.

i know i could build a trailer easy and it would hold more but only need a bit more room for my passengers and it fell into my lap, so i thot it would be pretty badd ass
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Old 04-11-2008, 09:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Probaly not what you want, but it is a back part of a Jeep



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Old 04-12-2008, 01:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Use a trailer 4" drop axle, cut the center camber out of it to slim it down using a straight tube. Then flip the axle over so now it's a 4" rise axle. Single link it and use either the springs that are on it for a 3/4 eliptical design or a couple old school coil overs off an old truck rear suspension. Cut the frame off right at the front of the body and build a mini gooseneck on the front, just not high like a regular trailer. Make the top of the gooseneck the same height at the top of the tub. Angle the hitch part of the gooseneck out at 45* and at the bottom weld a straight tube to a pivoting pintle hitch. This will give you mad clearance over the rocks. As the front of your Jeep goes up an incline, the tongue of the trailer will go down into the rocks. With this mini gooseneck setup there is a really good chance that it won't hit. Then on the single link weld in 1/4" plate from the axle all the way forward to the link. This will provide a bitchin skid plate so tall rocks will slide down it and under the axle. Also use 1/4" plate where the old gas tank use to be, then cut out the floor pan and build a recess area for more gear. Honestly, you could probably get away with using 3/16" plate for all of that, but not the way that I drive.

The single link will provide no flex in the suspension of the trailer, but 1) it looks cool at hell and 2) the skid plate would be a major benefit. The old leafs will get hung up on everything. Oh, and the greatest part about a single link suspension on a trailer......you don't have to worry about anti-squat. Oh, and for all of those that think backing up will be a bitch, once again, no real flex in a trailer suspension, so one center limiting strap will keep it from wanting to open up when pushing it backwards into a large rock. Oh, and another thing, since there is really no flex, three really nice DOM sleeves and poly bushings will work fine. One for the single link and two for the track bar.

Ok, that's all I have for now. It's midnight here and I've got a set of bearings getting ready to come out of the parts washer....yes, still at work.
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Old 04-12-2008, 11:22 AM   #10 (permalink)
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trailor guy you are pretty damn awsome lol
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Old 04-12-2008, 11:43 AM   #11 (permalink)
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would it be a bad idea to use my spare RE springs and lift it or is that stupid cuz of the COG. ?
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Old 04-12-2008, 12:38 PM   #12 (permalink)
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would it be a bad idea to use my spare RE springs and lift it or is that stupid cuz of the COG. ?
I would try and keep the COG on the low if possible. But really, set up at the same height as your Jeep isn't bad. Just remember, there is no front to the trailer like a rig, so no counter balance. A trailer will roll over quicker than a rig, even if both have the same COG.
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Old 04-12-2008, 12:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Use a trailer 4" drop axle, cut the center camber out of it to slim it down using a straight tube. Then flip the axle over so now it's a 4" rise axle. Single link it and use either the springs that are on it for a 3/4 eliptical design or a couple old school coil overs off an old truck rear suspension. Cut the frame off right at the front of the body and build a mini gooseneck on the front, just not high like a regular trailer. Make the top of the gooseneck the same height at the top of the tub. Angle the hitch part of the gooseneck out at 45* and at the bottom weld a straight tube to a pivoting pintle hitch. This will give you mad clearance over the rocks. As the front of your Jeep goes up an incline, the tongue of the trailer will go down into the rocks. With this mini gooseneck setup there is a really good chance that it won't hit. Then on the single link weld in 1/4" plate from the axle all the way forward to the link. This will provide a bitchin skid plate so tall rocks will slide down it and under the axle. Also use 1/4" plate where the old gas tank use to be, then cut out the floor pan and build a recess area for more gear. Honestly, you could probably get away with using 3/16" plate for all of that, but not the way that I drive.

The single link will provide no flex in the suspension of the trailer, but 1) it looks cool at hell and 2) the skid plate would be a major benefit. The old leafs will get hung up on everything. Oh, and the greatest part about a single link suspension on a trailer......you don't have to worry about anti-squat. Oh, and for all of those that think backing up will be a bitch, once again, no real flex in a trailer suspension, so one center limiting strap will keep it from wanting to open up when pushing it backwards into a large rock. Oh, and another thing, since there is really no flex, three really nice DOM sleeves and poly bushings will work fine. One for the single link and two for the track bar.

Ok, that's all I have for now. It's midnight here and I've got a set of bearings getting ready to come out of the parts washer....yes, still at work.
that single link sounds sweet but i can not find any info on the web about it. like pictures to make sure i am visualizin it right. got any?
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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that single link sounds sweet but i can not find any info on the web about it. like pictures to make sure i am visualizin it right. got any?
Search in the general 4x4 section. Basicly, a single joint towards the front of the trailer centered left to right. Then take two bars and run the diagnally towards the outside of the axle. The bars can be welded right to the axle itself. Then you need a track bar to keep the axle centered under the trailer.
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Old 04-12-2008, 05:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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im tryin lol on the 6th hour...
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Old 04-12-2008, 11:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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hows this chit look
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:01 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Not exactly what I had in mind, but good idea's for sure.
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:12 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Click Here, this is what I had in mind. But since there is really no torque load on a trailer axle, I always figured a poly bushing w/ thick DOM Sleeve would work great. Make sure to use a good grade 8 9/16" or 5/8" bolt. Then another coupler poly's for the track arm. Make sure the DOM sleeves are drilled with zert fittings for grease and hit the road. I know, I know, I need to get off my ass a finish the plans and build my off road buggy trailer.
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:08 AM   #19 (permalink)
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thats exactly what i have been thinkin of. just couldnt find it.
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:23 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Old 04-14-2008, 04:06 PM   #21 (permalink)
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That military trailer on air bags would be pretty sweet.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:10 PM   #22 (permalink)
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i think this is exactly what you had in mind trailer guy!
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:16 PM   #23 (permalink)
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whats your opinion... doin a single one like i just posted or do double like above. if i did like above i would plate the bottom of the arm assemblys to act as skid sliders.
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Old 04-14-2008, 11:46 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I would rather do the single like you just posted in #22. I personally feel that with a solid axle it shares the weight and the lateral push and pull and would be a stronger setup for the rocks. If it was going to be a dirt road only trailer, then the setups above in an indepentant setup would be slick. But let's face, if it's built you will probably be using it in the rocks to get somewhere at some point in time. Hell, I think the ultimate would be building a trailer and taking up one of the Hammers trails to test it out. I've always thought that Claw Hammer would be a good test trail. A couple tight spots you can choose to do, a small climb, and some more open spots to haul ass on the rocks. Because I run 8 lugs on my rig, my hub and spindle choice would be 7k. It has the larger outer bearing to help with the abuse. I would build my axle from scratch using .250" rect. tubing. Instead of having a rise that went straight up, I would build the rise running up at a 45* angle with a total of 6" in height. I would run a one link with panhard bar and use a couple small FOX nitro air shocks. Mounting the top of the shocks 20* forward and 15* inward. I would also put in a stock YJ sway bar, so if cornering and the inside of the tire on the trailer is against a rock, the trailer wouldn't want to unload the suspension so much as the tongue gets forced through the corner. Do a mini gooseneck with a spare mounted on top of it and two pivoting doors on the top of the trailer to hold everything in. I've also thought many times about installing two batteries in the trailer with quick connects for my Ready Welder to hook up to and storage in the front for a couple gas cans. And since my rig in 4-linked, I would build the trailer hitch off the top of my rear axle housing so it doesn't pull on my rig and change the feel of the suspension. But hey, my rig stops at the centerline of my rear axle, so I have no vehicle overhang at all, so it's easy with mine.
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:58 PM   #25 (permalink)
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mines tri linked, four at the frame 3 at the axle. another option would be to duplicate it for the neat factor








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