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Fixing utility trailer....

4K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  nissancrawler 
#1 ·
Hope you guys could help me out.

I don't have much experience weld but have done some with my dad. We made a flatbed trailer out of a travel trailer frame. It came out pretty good, the welds didn't look too pretty but were good.

I will be using a Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 buzzbox with 6013 rod. (he has a lot of these)

I was given this trailer and before using it, I would like to make some changes and additions. For some reason the previous owner installed the axle towards the rear. I have no idea why. I would also like to make some side walls. Also, would it be too difficult to make longer (extend), was thinking 14' total. On some projects we carry long pieces of wood, 12' to 16'.

The trailer will be used to haul trash to the dump, move family..when needed, tile, thinset, plywood, sheetrock...an so on, not all at the same time. Work around the house never ends.

I got some measurements... Size is 5'x10'. Frame is 2x2 square tubing and 2x2x1/8" angle. From the picture, could you tell me if the design is ok? Also from the number on the axle, could you tell me what the specs are? Here's the part number TS 35 73 0580 545 1 AX-5201-BD. It might be a 3500# axle and the spings are 4 leaf, flat end slipper. The mfg website indicates 2000# capacity each.

Let me know if you would like pictures from different angles... Hope you guys could give me your thoughts, suggestions and opinions...
Thanks, Joe





 
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#2 ·
lengthen the center tongue piece so you can weld it onto the second crossmember. Move the axle where you want it, then run a second length of 2x2 on each side, from (weld to) the angled tongue pieces, to in front of the axle. That will strengthen the trailer significantly. Trailers braced like yours will bend if a load shifts forward, ask me how I know.
 
#6 · (Edited)
6013 is a shallow penetration rod but is easy to run. I personally use 6011 for most stuff but you would be ok with the 6013 if thats what u want to use, just weld it hotter.
Also if you want it longer and want better axle placement then add a few feet onto the back, whatever gets you to a 60/40 split. A top rail would stiffen things up a bit too.
 
#5 ·
use 2X2 square tubing to build a second frame ontop of what is currently there and make the trailer long enough that the current placement of the axle is where you want it.

that or just go pick up a set of spring hangers and mount the axle forward a bit and you'll be golden.

I'd bet the previous owner made the trailer to move a lawn tractor or such around and wanted the long wheelbase for handling and backing characteristics. and since the weight was not significant the tongue weight was not a concern.
 
#7 ·
Do you thing by adding 2x2 to the rear to get the 60/40 split and adding a 2x2x1/8" on top of that....work? Then make a 3 foot high side wall to make stiffen everything?

lengthen the center tongue piece so you can weld it onto the second crossmember. Move the axle where you want it, then run a second length of 2x2 on each side, from (weld to) the angled tongue pieces, to in front of the axle. That will strengthen the trailer significantly. Trailers braced like yours will bend if a load shifts forward, ask me how I know.
Sorry but I don't follow. When you say run a second 2x2 on each side, from...to... Could you please explain a different way?

Thanks to everyone for all your input. Looking forward to working on this over the weekend...
 
#9 ·
So it's like having no frame on top of the other. The bottom on ends on front of the axle. Do you also have it connecting to the other side? Like a cross member?

Now it makes sense. Much better this way, than having the angle pieces of the tongue finish when it gets to the frame. It should then continue to front of the axle.

Thanks for clearing this up..
 
#12 ·
So option 1 might be better than option 2?
Not sure if the cross member (horizontal yellow line)to connect both sides is necassary...
Either of those would be a huge improvement on what you have. Considering it's already welded on, I probably wouldn't bother moving the parts of the tongue welded to the side of the frame. I would just leave them there and run the other piece from there back.

Most trailers don't have a crossmember there like that.
 
#11 ·
I'd keep the tongue like you have it, and go with option 2, althought the yellow cross member is optional. None of my trailers have it.

Option 1 is better than 2 if the tounge is made from questionable strength metal. However, your's doesn't look to be as long as is shown in option 2.

As for rods, I wouldn't use 6013 unless you're welding thin metal (no more than 1/8"). For general use, I use 7018 or 6011.

For your sides, tubing is much nicer looking than angle, and stronger. You can use the sides to increase the beaming strength of the trailer without much extra work. A simple latter design would increase beaming strength, a latice design would be stronger yet.
 
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