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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Member # 3547
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 6,719
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4 pin, 6 pin, 7 pin.....hopeless towing newbie struggles with the simplest of things.
Who wants to give me the pin out of the common trailer connectors.
Seems locally, 4 pin flat, and 6 pin round are common, as well as a 7 pin RV plug. My tow rig has the 7 pin RV plug as it had a camper in the bed (judging from the outrigger bars (or whatever they're called) Trailer had a 6 pin, which seller hacked off and installed a 4 pin so Chad could tow it home for me If I had to guess: 4 ground side marker/tail/conspicuity light stop lights turn signal 6 add 2 for electric brakes (don't know what the 2 wires would be - some sort of progressive on/off?) 7 add a 12v service line? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Member # 324
Location: Nevada
Posts: 4,005
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The 6 pin has 1 for brakes and 1 for whatever. The 7 pin has brakes, charge and reverse light. Just buy the end for the trailer that matches your truck. Also If you wire it all screwball so it doesnt match anyone else it makes it a bitch for someone to borrow your trailer.
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Family, Friends, riders and racers, its who we are. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Member # 3547
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 6,719
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So I was right on the 4 pin?
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Please tell me you didn't make that page... If you did... What a dumbass!!! That page is so totally fawked, I don't know where to start... Let's start at the first obvious mistake... There are two appropriate ways to wire a 6 way plug. Trailers manufactured in the mid-west are wired one way, and trailers made in the rest of the US are wired another. Both ways are perfectly acceptable. The only difference in the wiring code is switching the brake and the 12v+ wire. If you pull apart a 6 way plug (male or female) it will be marked with letters, not numbers. Also, never wire a trailer by the color of the wire. The color of the wire, unless you have the manufactures wiring chart in front of you, will hardly ever be the same between manufactures. GD (the largest terminal) = Ground LT= Left Turn/Stop RT= Right turn/Stop S= Brake or 12v+ TM= Trailer Markers center pin will be the brake or the 12v+, whichever was not put to the S terminal. The center terminal is hardly ever used for a back-up light wire. If it is used, it is something that you better take a picture of, cause you probably will never see it again. That is one of two reasons why the manufactures are going to the 7 pin. The second reason being that the 7 way will always be wired the same. Unless someone has pulled the plug apart to make the wiring work with some hermaphrodite truck, the wiring should always be the same. The biggest fuck-up on the entire page: DO NOT WIRE THE 12v+ WIRE TO CHARGE THE BREAKAWAY BATTERY!!! The most amperage you can put to a dry-cell, or gel-cell, rechargable breakaway battery is 1.2 amps. Anymore than that and you will fry the battery, possibly, more than likely, by explosion. Since 999 out of 1000 batteries used in breakaway systems are of this type, do not wire your trailer to charge the battery unless you wire in a specific charger available from one of the trailer parts people. If you have an RV, or any other trailer that has a living quarters, your breakaway switch will be attached to the batteries that run your 12v systems in the coach. Then, of course, it is fine to wire the 12v+ wire to charge the breakaway battery. ![]() The 7 pin wiring is also all fucked up. The 7 pin is labeled by number, and they also use color as an identifier. 1 White = Ground 2 Blue = Brake 3 Green = Running Lights 4 Black = 12v+ 5 Red = Left Turn 6 Brown = Right Turn The 7th isn't marked, but is the center terminal. That will be the auxillary wire. 999 out of 1000 times, it will be the back-up wire, and the common color is Yellow. The way the 7 pin plug is labeled is common to RV's. This color scheme usually holds true through out the RV industry. Do not trust it. Always double check by function. You don't want your 12v+ wire to run to ground unless you want to see some pretty sparks and lots of smoke. You'd think you were at a Tin Bender gathering.Congratulations... the 4 way wiring was right.
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[COLOR="Red"]Central Washington Muff Dive and Rescue Team[/COLOR] Last edited by FYRMAN; 08-18-2002 at 01:23 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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The best way to deal with the difference, is to either buy the ready made adaptors, or make them. This way, reguardless of what you end up towing, you can just pick the appropate adaptor and not worry about it.
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[URL="http://www.pulsetelecom.biz"]pulsetelecom.biz[/URL] |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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[COLOR="Red"]Central Washington Muff Dive and Rescue Team[/COLOR] |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Member # 1533
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 2,779
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I must have read that post of mine 60 times, trying to make sure that everything was perfect, so that I didn't look like a dumbass... Thank you for pointing that out. It has been edited.
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[COLOR="Red"]Central Washington Muff Dive and Rescue Team[/COLOR] |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Member # 1767
Location: McKinney, Texas
Posts: 765
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Quote:
I used a page similar to that one to wire my truck and it worked fine. Must have been a different source.
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TLCA #8123 Lone Star Land Cruisers - 79 FJ40 |
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