Wheels or rollers to stop dragging the ass end of a trailer on the ground? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 01-13-2009, 08:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Wheels or rollers to stop dragging the ass end of a trailer on the ground?

I'm considering some rear end rollers or wheels to prevent dragging the rear end of my trailer on the ground, who makes something that would work and hold up to that kind of weight?

All I see are rubber wrapped ball bearing swivel wheels but none of them look like they'll handle the weight very well.

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Old 01-13-2009, 08:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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you could use something similar to rollers on a dumpster.
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Old 01-13-2009, 08:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What about something like this?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3G249



Swivel Caster, Cast Iron V Groove Caster Type, Wheel Dia 6 In, Wheel Width 2 1/2 In, Load Rating 2500 lb, Overall Height 8 In, Replacement Wheel 2MV86, Hardened Steel Raceway, Roller Bearings, Wheel Color Black, Hard Tread, Mount Type 41 Top Plate, Bolt Hole Spacing 3 3/8 x 5 1/4 In, Mounting Bolt Dia 1/2 In, Steel Plate Material, Plate Thickness 3/8 In, Bright Zinc Caster Finish
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Old 01-13-2009, 08:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i have been searching for a picture, but i was thinking something more along the lines of the tube rollers that are on the big dumpsters. i'll try and find a pic.

http://www.wellcapcasters.com/noserollers.htm

sorry i'm not good with pictures.

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Old 01-13-2009, 08:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It seems like that would only work if you're pulling away straight, if I pull to the side it would be dragging them sideways kind of doing away with the benefit of having them right?
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Old 01-13-2009, 08:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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true. I believe it would still move a lot easier than dragging the trailer.

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Old 01-13-2009, 08:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It seems like that would only work if you're pulling away straight, if I pull to the side it would be dragging them sideways kind of doing away with the benefit of having them right?
but the trailer neer goes just sideways unless your jacknifing it........
its always moveing forewards and backwards, and those roller would do there job at an angle. then are ALOT stronger, and less parts to fail or break off.
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Why not buy Schedual 40 (2 different sizes) and place one tube inside of the other, pack with grease and weld the inner tube to the end by use od tabs or under the frame
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That is kinda what I did. It has worked for about 5 years. Just remember to keep them grease, if not they bang and will not turn. I broke one off so i made gussets for them in case the get drug side ways like when you turn sharp. As for greaseing them, I made mine so I could remove them and pack with grease.
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Is the trailer spring over or under? Or does it have the torsion axles? If you have leaf spring suspension, flip the axles.
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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http://www.rjays.com/Trailer-parts/t...-wheels-01.htm

i have been looking at these



to weld onto my trailer. Any time i have dragged my trailer it has been going straight. I would be concerned with swivel casters on a slide slope, the trailer might be able to get away from you.

Mine is also on a car trailer that is pretty light while empty and it seems that is when i drag it the most. I believe you are looking for your toy hauler? so it should be heavy enough that the wheels will never come off the ground enough to get away

*edit the link is just for Idea, i have found better prices on ebay and searching around

-Paul

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Old 01-14-2009, 06:03 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I dont know shit about rollers on trailers. I too have considered the roller route.

For casters though I buy exclusively from Mapp Caster they are on Navigation & Sampson just south of the shipchannel just east of downtown.
http://www.mappcaster.com/
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Is the trailer spring over or under? Or does it have the torsion axles? If you have leaf spring suspension, flip the axles.
2 7K lb torsion.
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:13 AM   #14 (permalink)
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http://www.rjays.com/Trailer-parts/t...-wheels-01.htm

i have been looking at these



to weld onto my trailer. Any time i have dragged my trailer it has been going straight. I would be concerned with swivel casters on a slide slope, the trailer might be able to get away from you.

Mine is also on a car trailer that is pretty light while empty and it seems that is when i drag it the most. I believe you are looking for your toy hauler? so it should be heavy enough that the wheels will never come off the ground enough to get away

*edit the link is just for Idea, i have found better prices on ebay and searching around

-Paul
Thanks Paul, that's exactly what I was thinking about. My main concern is protecting the scissor leveling jacks on the end of the trailer. I'd like to know they aren't the first thing to drag on the ground since I already ripped one off when I wheeled the trailer.
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Old 01-14-2009, 07:46 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Jodi, even though you never listen I'll give my 2 cents anyway. I have put skids on my last 2 trailers. reason being is that if you were to really get a caster hung up on something and it was welded on good it could potentially be pulled and instead of breaking away it would bend the frame or whatever it is welded to outward with it.

I have always done skids because all it does is slide. Nothing to bend, break, or wear.

I did it with my old gooseneck and my old car hauler. The gooseneck I actually drug so steep at the deer lease that the tires were a few feet off the ground as it rested on the ball and on the rear skid.

So just think about it, would you rather have something to slide on or an anchor sticking down into the ground that can bend or twist.

I've gone back and forth on the rollers but have always opted for a steel skid. The trailer I just ordered will have a skid incorporated into it during its production so I dont even have to add it.
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Old 01-14-2009, 07:49 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks Paul, that's exactly what I was thinking about. My main concern is protecting the scissor leveling jacks on the end of the trailer. I'd like to know they aren't the first thing to drag on the ground since I already ripped one off when I wheeled the trailer.

But then again, you have that ^ to contend with.

One question though.....why do the leveling jacks have to be mounted on the trailer? You have to get down there and crank on them anyway...why not keep them in the trailer and just place them when you get somewhere? That would add a step to setup but would take away a lot of worries.

If you were to take them off and put a flat skid under there when you went to level it up with the jacks you could just place em under there anywhere because they would be jacking up via the skid...which should dissipate weight well enough that it would be a fine jacking point.

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Old 01-14-2009, 08:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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But then again, you have that ^ to contend with.

One question though.....why do the leveling jacks have to be mounted on the trailer? You have to get down there and crank on them anyway...why not keep them in the trailer and just place them when you get somewhere? That would add a step to setup but would take away a lot of worries.

If you were to take them off and put a flat skid under there when you went to level it up with the jacks you could just place em under there anywhere because they would be jacking up via the skid...which should dissipate weight well enough that it would be a fine jacking point.
That's my other option Kelso, I'm already taking the rear door step off and leaving it off because most of the places that trailer will go wouldn't be too friendly to the step if I replaced it. My plan was the weld in some C channel to support the jacks and raise them up in between the frame rails in the back. I guess a skid would work, It wouldn't be hard to add to the trailer really because there's plenty steel back there.

I thought about getting a pair of these aluminum jacks, they're pretty cheap and I could store them in the garage area while moving.



My main concern is height, I don't want to have to carry a ton of wood just to block these things up so they reach the under side of the trailer. I'm still looking for one taller than 17" fully extended.
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:59 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Good, Im glad you are open to the idea. I'd hate to see you twist a crossmember due to a roller anchoring into the ground. Much easier to drag a trailer fitted with a skid and be confident that nothing got messed up because there is nothing to mess up...unless you are worried about a blemished skid

I dont think you mentioned it so I'll ask: How much clearance do you have at the rearmost of the trailer on flat ground, and how far behind the rear axle is that?
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:48 AM   #19 (permalink)
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On my ToyHauler, I have skids mounted just behind (and hang a bit lower than) the rear stabilizer jacks. Jacks stay right where they belong and the skid hits ground and protects everything if need be... Honestly though, only ONCE has it ever even dragged for me. Maybe I've been lucky?
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:46 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Good, Im glad you are open to the idea. I'd hate to see you twist a crossmember due to a roller anchoring into the ground. Much easier to drag a trailer fitted with a skid and be confident that nothing got messed up because there is nothing to mess up...unless you are worried about a blemished skid

I dont think you mentioned it so I'll ask: How much clearance do you have at the rearmost of the trailer on flat ground, and how far behind the rear axle is that?
I haven't measured it but on flat concrete I had enough room to slide under to drill all the holes for the tie down points, maybe 18" - 20" of clearance behind the rear axle. All the tanks and plumbing are in front of the axles so there's really nothing to damage back there except the jacks, it's only frame.
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:49 AM   #21 (permalink)
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On my ToyHauler, I have skids mounted just behind (and hang a bit lower than) the rear stabilizer jacks. Jacks stay right where they belong and the skid hits ground and protects everything if need be... Honestly though, only ONCE has it ever even dragged for me. Maybe I've been lucky?
I don't think I'll drag too much but I know it'll drag when parking in places like Katemcy. I ripped off a rear leveling jack bringing it home and taking the other one off sounds like a good idea. I planned to mount them up inside the frame rails but portable jacks would be really nice as long as they extend enough to do any good. I may have to get a pair of them made taller than the little aluminum ones I see around on RV sites.
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:28 PM   #22 (permalink)
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What about 2 aluminum floor jacks? I've seen some pretty small ones. And then you would have a long handle to shove it under there and position it by instead of getting down in the dirt.
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:45 PM   #23 (permalink)
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there is a shop here in az that gets some parts that are hard to find.

I got a set of those rollers for a class A that handle a ton of weight.

their website is mymobilehomestore.com , youll have to call them for parts that arent listed but they are pretty helpful.
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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What about 2 aluminum floor jacks? I've seen some pretty small ones. And then you would have a long handle to shove it under there and position it by instead of getting down in the dirt.
Are you talking about small hydraulic bottle jacks like this?



Or a rolling floor jack like this?



I'm thinking about carrying 2 small hydraulic 3000lb floor jacks and some wood blocking, from what I can tell most of them have more height capacity than the aluminum camper jacks I was looking at and small bottle jacks are dirt cheap these days... and always good to have around.
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:27 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I was alluding to the floor jack you pictured being easy to shove under there and jack away on The bottle jack you would still have to get down and reach under the trailer. If you had a skid on it which would essentially make the whole covered underside a jacking point you could just throw down a floor jack on either side and level to your hearts content.

Someone we know just got a compact aluminum floor jack, it weighs like 20lbs. I cant remember who it was though
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