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Old 06-19-2009, 08:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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99 Dodge diesel running rough and hard to start

I just replaced that POS VP44 injection pump again and got the Air Dog 100 gph lift pump/fuel filter/water separator. Now the truck takes several seconds of cranking to start up about 80% of the time, and usually runs rough at idle. But sometimes it fires right up and runs fine.

I have checked all the fuel line fittings and they are tight. The only code it has thrown is something about the grid heater, but it went away after a day...anyone have a clue what the problem could be?
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Old 06-19-2009, 10:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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when my crankshaft sensor went out on mine it would do the same thing. you might try that its only a $60 part which is cheap compared to the rest of the parts. if you don't already know it is on the side of the block behind the starter. my truck was a 98.5 24v with an auto
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Could be fuel filter. Mine does that when the filter get plugged. It that a pump that needs to be timed or is it just a bolt and go pump.
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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No timing on these pumps, just a keyed shaft that goes in the same way the old one came out. The fuel filter is brand new, but I guess it's worth checking out now that it's super easy. I'll look into the CPS, too.
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Old 06-20-2009, 04:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Did you put the timing key back in the same orientation that it came out? IIRC, putting them in backwards will affect the timing slightly and cause it to run poorly.
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Old 06-21-2009, 02:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Did you put the timing key back in the same orientation that it came out? IIRC, putting them in backwards will affect the timing slightly and cause it to run poorly.
Yeah, I triple checked it. Was following the FSM and they made a big deal about it so I made sure I got it right.
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Old 06-22-2009, 11:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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How much fuel pressure is your airdog putting out? You DO have gauges in the truck dont you? Sometimes they put out too much at idle and cause this condition as well, especially the rough start.
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Old 06-22-2009, 12:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Bad connector tube orings are a common cause for the hard start. Doesn't sound like you have messed with them recently, but maybe they just picked now to rear their head. Thats a $10 fix...

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Old 06-23-2009, 09:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Keep us posted! Mine is doing he same thing after putting in a new injector pump. I replaced the delivery tube o rings and no change. What fuel pressure you running?
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I don't have a fuel pressure guage unfortunately. Prolly would have saved me from having to replace the injection pump if I did...
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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There isn't even a pressure spec from Dodge for then lift pump. just a Volumne spec which I think was 500ml in 10 seconds, or 45 oz in 30 seconds...depends on where you look.

Huss, who cares if it hard starts...you have a cracked block

Make sure you don't have any fuel leaks ( I know this sounds dumb, but even a little seepage on the back of the pump, or at the transfer tubes can cause a misfire.
Also check the grid heater solenoids for hot/melted wires, or even if they are working...they don't always throw a code, even when they are bad. You can also check the fuel heater in the filter housing for damage, or an open
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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There isn't even a pressure spec from Dodge for then lift pump. just a Volumne spec which I think was 500ml in 10 seconds, or 45 oz in 30 seconds...depends on where you look.
Who told you that? Read a FSM lately?
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Whats FSM??
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Who told you that? Read a FSM lately?
The original FSM may have had a pressure spec in it (too lazy to dig through my PDFs,) supposedly around 2003 or 2004, the dealers got notified that a pressure spec no longer applied, and only a volume measurement was expected.

And, for 1uglyranger, Factory Service/Shop Manual.
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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And, for 1uglyranger, Factory Service/Shop Manual.

Thanks...I thought maybe he was talking about a forum or something... shows how much I know
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Old 06-24-2009, 01:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Also check the grid heater solenoids for hot/melted wires, or even if they are working...they don't always throw a code, even when they are bad. You can also check the fuel heater in the filter housing for damage, or an open
How is the grid heater supposed to work? My FSM says nothing about it There is a bunch of corrosion on the battery that falls onto those solenoids. Maybe I'll put more effort into testing those.
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Old 06-24-2009, 06:02 PM   #17 (permalink)
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There's a pair of heater grids, between the intake manifold and the intake horn. The relays are on the driver's side fenderwall, below the batteries. When's it's cool out, something like 35 degrees F and below, the grid heaters warm up the intake air charge, to help cold starts. Between the 2 heaters, they draw something like 100 amps.

Mine starts at -20 F without the block heater being plugged in. It's not happy, but it'll do it.
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:25 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Does kind of sound like a crank position sensor, but that should or will eventually throw a code. Could also be a leaky injector connecting tube? How hard did you torque on the fuel line to head connections?

Or, you could have another bad vp!
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Old 06-30-2009, 03:10 AM   #19 (permalink)
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If you aren't getting any codes, I would have to lean toward you are getting air somewhere, that would cause it to bleed off, and then idle rough once it did start till all the air got worked out. I would check all the fittings, especially since you added the airdog. If you used you stock lift pump wiring to fire a relay for the airdog you could bump the starter to get the pump to run wich should prime it and pressurize the lines up to the IP, and maybe you could see if there is a small leak you overlooked.
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:20 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks...I thought maybe he was talking about a forum or something... shows how much I know
Yup.. Have you checked out cumminsforum.com? Its about 75% as cool as turbodiselregister, but you dont have to pay to use it. Theres some dudes that really know their shit there.
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:39 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Yup.. Have you checked out cumminsforum.com? Its about 75% as cool as turbodiselregister, but you dont have to pay to use it. Theres some dudes that really know their shit there.
Or you can try DieselBombers.com that is 100x cooler then Cummins Forum and not full of asshat post Nazi's...

Alot of the CF big wigs have bailed ship since Andy sold the site and went over to DieselBombers, thats actually how the site got started. And the have some kick ass giveaways! plus a whole section dedicated to 35% shit.

I think you have a leak somewhere and air is seaping in sometimes when it sits to long.
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Old 07-03-2009, 12:58 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You all are making me worry. I need to replace the lift and injection pumps in my 98.5. It has the pump death code in it. And it wont go over 2k rpms or 20% throttle. But it will still "putter" around. Just have not bought the pumps yet. Other then those issues it runs great.

At least it moves under its own power and starts up. I will be pissed if it wont move after I changes the pumps.
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:14 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Not to get off subject.
But a $150 dollar fuel pressure gauge( Matchin gauge to dash,brained ss hose,and besale for colum) is the the best money you can spend on these trucks(98.5 to 01). Buy this before a chip or anything.

Most tech and imfo sites say you need atleast 10psi to keep the cam/vp pump lubed. And no more then 20psi or you start to hurt the return diafram in the pump.
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Old 07-04-2009, 02:30 PM   #24 (permalink)
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im stuck at work and have nothing to do..

so i dug out a paper fsm,kind of suprised we had one that old still.

the lift pump operation says,while cranking the pump is ran at a 25% duty cycle and supplies around 7psi,so as not to harm the pump and that while running it is 100% duty cycle at 10psi min. in the last few years(2003?) we have not been looking for any pressure number just the flow 45oz. in 30 sec is the number for a 98.5-02 24v

i think that you may have the wrong keyway/or have it backwards i have seen pumps come out of the box with the wrong keyway it is not common but in the 12 years i have been playing with 24v engines i have seen a few,there is 21 different keyways and the numbers stamped into the pump must match the numbers on the keyway and the arrow has to point to the rear of the pump,you would expect to see a p1690 with that,but i guess there is a chance of it not setting


i will probley take shit for this but it could be the aftermarket crap you have on the truck,the factory retro fit lift pump is more than enough fuel to keep the thing happy with the factory calibration in the ecm.
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