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Old 04-04-2012, 10:45 AM   #51 (permalink)
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I know its a little off topic but i run Stihl 2-stroke oil in both of my 06 Duramax's and in my mini-ex. I usually put in 4-6oz per tank, i have been told that it is a good lubricant for the injection pump. I have had no problems with the cats yet and only the normal EGR problems. I am thinking if blocking the EGR and putting in the fingersticks to fool the ECU.
It's better to run TCW-3 2-stroke oil, the marine formula. It's ash-less, and it burns cleaner than the oil for lawn equipment. The Wal-Mart Super Tech brand is pretty good and burns clean.
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:05 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Oh yeah, where did you get those filters? They remind me of windsocks.
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Old 04-04-2012, 04:00 PM   #53 (permalink)
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subscribed, and I also want to know the best place to get the "sock filter"
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Old 04-04-2012, 04:44 PM   #54 (permalink)
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here

are the ones that i ordered. you can find them cheaper, but for just 2 the shipping made it equal.

if it works, i'll order another batch of 10 or something

another source
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Old 04-04-2012, 04:52 PM   #55 (permalink)
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I have an 07 dodge 5.9 that I have run on a 50/50 mix of used oil or atf and had no problems. I stockpile oil changes and or tranny services and filter it very well , mix it about 50/50 with fuel never had a problem other than a little extra smoke.
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Old 04-04-2012, 04:55 PM   #56 (permalink)
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so, odd question.... if any of that fluid is synthetic oil...... what happens? just doesn't burn and goes out the system?

i think there was a couple quarts of mobil1syn in there somewhere
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Old 04-04-2012, 05:15 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Why wouldn't it burn?
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Old 04-04-2012, 05:33 PM   #58 (permalink)
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IIRC the man made stuff is harder to burn.

Reminds me of those 80s mobil one oil commercials where they fry the oil in a cast iron pan
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Old 04-05-2012, 04:31 AM   #59 (permalink)
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so, odd question.... if any of that fluid is synthetic oil...... what happens? just doesn't burn and goes out the system?

i think there was a couple quarts of mobil1syn in there somewhere
My truck was infested with Mobil 1 when I bought it. I can't even use my own oil for fuel. From what I've been told and read burning synthetic is a no no. I guess in your case it would be a matter of how watered down it is by the regular used motor oil.

Thanks for the links. The first one is offering 99 cent shipping and I have access to used oil here. I'll have to read up on the WVO forums and check out the set ups so I know what microns I should get.

Where's Hybrid when I need him? He was also using RUG for this too.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:04 AM   #60 (permalink)
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I would recommend running the used oil through a 10 micron filter and then through a 2 micron filter; and I'd suggest using non-bypass filters.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:41 AM   #61 (permalink)
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My truck was infested with Mobil 1 when I bought it. I can't even use my own oil for fuel. From what I've been told and read burning synthetic is a no no. I guess in your case it would be a matter of how watered down it is by the regular used motor oil.

Thanks for the links. The first one is offering 99 cent shipping and I have access to used oil here. I'll have to read up on the WVO forums and check out the set ups so I know what microns I should get.

Where's Hybrid when I need him? He was also using RUG for this too.
Did I hear my name?

You can burn synthetic without too many probs in our IDI's, I know of several that have done it and I've done it myself. The main thing is the concentration of it, the rumor is that you don't want to run over 50% of it but I think that's just an arbitrary number that someone put out at one time. I've had a batch of 35% synthetic, 65% dino and the truck ran just fine.

The socks are nice but slow, I like my setup a bit better although it's a bit more expenive at about $60. I run a triple filter setup with the first two being Fram PH8A's (about 15-20 microns), and the final being a Baldwin (don't remember the part number) 2 micron. I suck through the filters instead of pushing through them and even with just a barrel pump, can easily crank through 20-35 gallons per hour. If I put my electric pump on it, it'll knock out about 60 gallons per hour.

If you're content on the socks, I'd stack them and run something like a 20, 20, 10, and then a 5 micron. The benefit of stacking is that your 5 micron (usually the most expensive), oughta last a long time.

No matter what filter though, I would absolutely recommend the use of regular gas to help make the dirt separate from the oil. The gas helps break the bonds in the oil and causes the majority of the water and dirt to settle to the bottom of the tank. To figure out how much gas I need, I just multiply the total gallons of oil by .2, which results in a 17% mixture which is unquestionably a safe amount for our IDI's.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:46 AM   #62 (permalink)
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I used to burn WMO in my old 7.3. I used a cheap home made fitler rig that used gravity. I always mixed the fuel with oil or atf prior to filtering, It helps it flow better and the garbage settles tot eh bottom quicker. 1 inline 20 micron filter adn one 2 micron filter. All WMO was filtered thru a cheesecloth screen when I dumped it into the bucket. I always allowsd my fuel to settle for a few days adn never used the bottom of the bucket thru my filters.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:49 AM   #63 (permalink)
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The main thing is the concentration of it, the rumor is that you don't want to run over 50% of it but I think that's just an arbitrary number that someone put out at one time. I've had a batch of 35% synthetic, 65% dino and the truck ran just fine.
Okay cool, then maybe survey will be fine.

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The socks are nice but slow, I like my setup a bit better although it's a bit more expenive at about $60. I run a triple filter setup
I'd ask for pics but I'm still waiting on the pics of your truck!

My issue is space over anything. If I could get some sort of rack built under the truck I'd have room for tons of cat litter pails. Since I'll have to "work" my way across I'm going to be sitting so there will be plenty of time to filter oil. I can afford the $60 but I don't have room for bigger barrels and the drippy sock method requires no power.

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If you're content on the socks, I'd stack them and run something like a 20, 20, 10, and then a 5 micron. The benefit of stacking is that your 5 micron (usually the most expensive), oughta last a long time.
By stacking do you mean stuffing the socks inside each other with the outter one being the 5 micron? Or stack up the buckets in such a way that the upper bucket drains into the one below it with the proper filters being hung on each bucket?

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No matter what filter though, I would absolutely recommend the use of regular gas to help make the dirt separate from the oil. The gas helps break the bonds in the oil and causes the majority of the water and dirt to settle to the bottom of the tank.
Now this part is probably where I'd have the biggest problem. Using survey's set up, how would I prevent draining the water and crap into the lower bucket, put the spigot up higher and discarding any remaining oil that's lower in the spigot? Also, how long should I let the oil/gas mixture sit for this breakage to complete it's work?

I must have been reading rawkon's mind as I typed this.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:29 AM   #64 (permalink)
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It's better to run TCW-3 2-stroke oil, the marine formula. It's ash-less, and it burns cleaner than the oil for lawn equipment. The Wal-Mart Super Tech brand is pretty good and burns clean.
Super Tech is about the lowest price available, too.

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No matter what filter though, I would absolutely recommend the use of regular gas to help make the dirt separate from the oil. The gas helps break the bonds in the oil and causes the majority of the water and dirt to settle to the bottom of the tank. To figure out how much gas I need, I just multiply the total gallons of oil by .2, which results in a 17% mixture which is unquestionably a safe amount for our IDI's.
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Now this part is probably where I'd have the biggest problem. Using survey's set up, how would I prevent draining the water and crap into the lower bucket, put the spigot up higher and discarding any remaining oil that's lower in the spigot? Also, how long should I let the oil/gas mixture sit for this breakage to complete it's work?
I'm curious, as well.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:32 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Great thread - I've been collecting motor oil for some time and I just need to build a filter setup for my 6.9.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:58 AM   #66 (permalink)
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This thread was started in shop and tools. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=centrifuge

Seems like a lot of WVO and WMO guys are going to this.
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:17 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Now this part is probably where I'd have the biggest problem. Using survey's set up, how would I prevent draining the water and crap into the lower bucket, put the spigot up higher and discarding any remaining oil that's lower in the spigot? Also, how long should I let the oil/gas mixture sit for this breakage to complete it's work?

I must have been reading rawkon's mind as I typed this.
well, my spigot is about 1" from the bottom, i figure that the really heavy stuff, can sit down there under the spigot, and the fluid is moving fairly slow, so i don't think it'd be sucking the sludge from the bottom.

and as for water, well, it will be under the oil in your last bucket. i've got just a little hand pump i was going to pump from in the last bucket into smaller 1-2 gallon containers. personally, i feel that with the small quanties i'm gonna be running through at any one time, its prolly gonna have less water than i'd get from the pump.

i may order a set of 2 micron filters now that you guys are mentioning it... i'm not going any higher tech that what i've got... i've only prolly 25-30 gallons at this point, and i'm not searching out any other avenues for more right now.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:22 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Now this part is probably where I'd have the biggest problem. Using survey's set up, how would I prevent draining the water and crap into the lower bucket, put the spigot up higher and discarding any remaining oil that's lower in the spigot? Also, how long should I let the oil/gas mixture sit for this breakage to complete it's work?
Since you don't have much space, I'd say to start off by putting your oil-gas mix into a clear 5 gallon bucket. If you can't find a clear one, a white one will also work if you shine a light behind it. In the bucket, I'd mix .8 gallons (a full gallon is fine too) of gas and put 4 gallons of oil on top of that. Stir it with a paint stick for 10-15 revs, put the cover on, and give it 24 hours.

After the 24 hours is up, shine a light behind the bucket and see if you can see any lines of separation between the different liquids. Since you're new to it, I'd give it 48 hours just for peace of mind. Oil will rise to the top so using your pump, siphon, whatever, suck off the top and into your first draining bucket w/a clear line. When you get to the line of separation, the last 1/4" in the bucket, or when the stuff coming through the line doesn't look quite right, stop sucking and pour the remainder into a "When this fills up I'm going to take it to Autozone/Advance and recycle it" bucket. Don't get greedy and use it all if it looks clear, there's ALWAYS dirt in the last little bit.

If you want to do a test and make sure you've got it right, mix 1/2 gallon of water, 3 1/2 gallons of oil, a gallon of gas, and mix it up completely. After a couple days, check your bucket and you'll see the separation line that I mentioned earlier. When you siphon it, you'll also see the difference in A) Oil B) Oil with a little bit of water in it C) Oil with alot of water in it, and D)Just water.

FWIW, I did this test a few months ago and wanted to see just how much the water would separate. The water off the bottom of the bucket looked clear enough to drink!
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:26 AM   #69 (permalink)
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i may order a set of 2 micron filters now that you guys are mentioning it... i'm not going any higher tech that what i've got... i've only prolly 25-30 gallons at this point, and i'm not searching out any other avenues for more right now.
For 25-30 gallons, your filtering setup is perfect. It's when you start getting into the higher amounts that you'll want something that's a little quicker. I burned WMO on a recent camping adventure and at some points, needed to process 100 gallons at a time.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:35 AM   #70 (permalink)
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By stacking do you mean stuffing the socks inside each other with the outter one being the 5 micron? Or stack up the buckets in such a way that the upper bucket drains into the one below it with the proper filters being hung on each bucket?
Unless you're letting the oil in each bucket settle, I don't see the need for using multiple buckets. I'd stuff the stocks inside each other and just use 3 buckets, the initial settling bucket, the drip bucket, and the final clean fuel bucket.

A good setup would be clear filtering/settling bucket>>>drip bucket>>>filters>>>final bucket (pretty much exactly what surveyboy is doing with the exception of the first bucket).


Oh, and with all the talk of water on my part, lemme clarify by saying that if the oil is coming from your own vehicle, and you know you don't have head gasket issues, the water content will be EXTREMELY low, maybe not even enough to separate out. But, if you're picking up oil from other people, garages, etc., you can almost always guarantee that there's some water in there whether it's from antifreeze, being left in the rain, inadvertent mixing, etc.

And just to add a little more perspective, diesel is allowed to have .05% water in it. In a 50 gallon tank, that's 3.2 oz. So yes, while getting the water out is important, please don't think I'm saying that you have to fret over every little drop, especially if you're mixing your oil at a 25:1 ratio like surveyboy.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:45 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Settling bucket should handle water anyway. If you let it sit long enough for big sediment to drop out, water should separate at the top. Just drain into the drip bucket and shut it off before the top of the oil (bottom of the water) hits the drain.

Again, water content should be low enough not to have to worry about it.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:50 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Settling bucket should handle water anyway. If you let it sit long enough for big sediment to drop out, water should separate at the top. Just drain into the drip bucket and shut it off before the top of the oil (bottom of the water) hits the drain.

Again, water content should be low enough not to have to worry about it.
I don't think I follow you, are you saying that the sediment will go the bottom, the oil will sit in the middle, and the water will float on top of the oil?
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:21 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Unless you're letting the oil in each bucket settle, I don't see the need for using multiple buckets. I'd stuff the stocks inside each other and just use 3 buckets, the initial settling bucket, the drip bucket, and the final clean fuel bucket.

A good setup would be clear filtering/settling bucket>>>drip bucket>>>filters>>>final bucket (pretty much exactly what surveyboy is doing with the exception of the first bucket).


Oh, and with all the talk of water on my part, lemme clarify by saying that if the oil is coming from your own vehicle, and you know you don't have head gasket issues, the water content will be EXTREMELY low, maybe not even enough to separate out. But, if you're picking up oil from other people, garages, etc., you can almost always guarantee that there's some water in there whether it's from antifreeze, being left in the rain, inadvertent mixing, etc.

And just to add a little more perspective, diesel is allowed to have .05% water in it. In a 50 gallon tank, that's 3.2 oz. So yes, while getting the water out is important, please don't think I'm saying that you have to fret over every little drop, especially if you're mixing your oil at a 25:1 ratio like surveyboy.
thanks for the info!!!

i'm going to add the settling bucket and add the gas and then refilter.
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:21 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Settling bucket should handle water anyway. If you let it sit long enough for big sediment to drop out, water should separate at the top. Just drain into the drip bucket and shut it off before the top of the oil (bottom of the water) hits the drain.

Again, water content should be low enough not to have to worry about it.
pssst..... oil is lighter than water
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:21 PM   #75 (permalink)
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