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Old 04-11-2012, 09:30 AM   #126 (permalink)
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I'll try it, but you would think with mixing it with D2 as well that the viscosity wouldnt be as much as an issue.
It seems that way when you look at the raw volume of liquid being mixed together but I think that injector spray patters and pulses must be ultra sensitive to viscosity and what's in the fuel.

Before I started blending/mixing/chemistring, I never would have believed that adding an ounce of 2 cycle oil per gallon would make a difference in a big V8, I just thought it would be diluted so much that the engine couldn't tell. Now though, I've seen it for myself and people are popping up all over the place (zukyak) saying that it runs quieter, better, etc.

Even though I've seen and experienced it, I still have a hard time believing that 1 ounce per gallon will have an impact on how a big motor runs...that's only a 7/10 of a percent (.007) dilution.

The addition of 1.5 gals might not stop the smoking completely, but it will change up the mixture enough in your tank that the engine will know the difference. With approx 30 gals in the tank, you're adding almost 5% gas by volume, alot more than 7/10 of a percent that guys are getting from 2 stroke oil.
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:36 AM   #127 (permalink)
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Before I ventured into all of this I was going to pick up a viscosity cup so I could measure D2 and whatever nasty mix I came up with.
My original idea with my Uhaul camper was to take a winter camping trip to Alaska. To figure out what % of WMO I could run without gumming up my fuel, I made a DIY viscosity cup by drilling a hole in the bottom of a can. Then I timed how long it would take for a gallon of diesel to run through the hole. After I established my baseline, I could figure out within what percentage of that baseline my different mixes would flow.

I guess that's not really a viscosity cup since it doesn't give you an absolute reading but at least you know if your mix will flow in the same ballpark as straight D2.

I was in Africa at the time though where store bought wasn't an option, for all I know a viscosity cup might only cost $5-10 here in the States and be worth the money rather than wasting your time drilling holes and timing flows.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:23 AM   #128 (permalink)
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you can pick up a cup at the paint supply place for 5 bucks or so. a hole in a bucket works too. As long as it gives you a measure to compare to.
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:53 AM   #129 (permalink)
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thinking of trying this in my 92 dodge,so you add the gas just for viscosity reasons?
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:24 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Anyone else getting some haze/smoke at idle running the WMO?
In my old 12v I would get a lot of extra smoke at idle and when it was cold -- but it cleaned up when warm.
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:31 AM   #131 (permalink)
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thinking of trying this in my 92 dodge,so you add the gas just for viscosity reasons?
and to help the 'crap' in the WMO to fall out before filtering
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:06 AM   #132 (permalink)
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Oil ? Does the oil seperate from the diesel if it sets along time? I only use my truck on weekends.
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:12 AM   #133 (permalink)
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Diesel fuel is oil
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:53 AM   #134 (permalink)
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Diesel fuel is oil
No shit Sherlock . Diesel is thiner than wmo. Thats why i was asking.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:26 AM   #135 (permalink)
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Not significantly, the oil is dissolved in the diesel, so it'll stay suspended. The particulate that your filters don't catch won't stay suspended though. There'll be a layer of sludge at the bottom of your tank eventually, this is one of the major reasons I'd lean towards fabbing up an electric powered centrifuge. Be pretty easy with a big brake drum, figure out a hub and tap the edge of the open end for a plate, spin it belt driven at 3krpm or so... Make it so it sits just inside the rim of a 55gal barrel.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:29 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Not significantly, the oil is dissolved in the diesel, so it'll stay suspended. The particulate that your filters don't catch won't stay suspended though. There'll be a layer of sludge at the bottom of your tank eventually, this is one of the major reasons I'd lean towards fabbing up an electric powered centrifuge. Be pretty easy with a big brake drum, figure out a hub and tap the edge of the open end for a plate, spin it belt driven at 3krpm or so... Make it so it sits just inside the rim of a 55gal barrel.
I don't want to be near a brake drum spinning at 3000 rpms

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Old 04-21-2012, 11:35 AM   #137 (permalink)
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I don't want to be near a brake drum spinning at 3000 rpms
Eh, they should be pretty well balanced, and they don't crack with whatever force the shoes put on them.

Kick it down to 1500 if you're scared of losing limbs.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:39 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Eh, they should be pretty well balanced, and they don't crack with whatever force the shoes put on them.

Kick it down to 1500 if you're scared of losing limbs.
You are the first that I know of that has suggested using a brake from as a 'fuge


1500 rpms wont clean well in a proper 'fuge bowl much less in a brake drum.

How many gallons of oil have you 'fuged in a brake drum?
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:39 PM   #139 (permalink)
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You are the first that I know of that has suggested using a brake from as a 'fuge


1500 rpms wont clean well in a proper 'fuge bowl much less in a brake drum.

How many gallons of oil have you 'fuged in a brake drum?
None, just figuring it would be a decent easy to clean out piece of iron. I don't have a 13"+ diameter piece of aluminum or even iron to turn a proper bowl out of, I've got a 13x3.5" drum from a 14 bolt.

It isn't about the RPM, it is about the surface feet per minute of the area occupied by the fluid. Larger bowl means less RPM to get the same amount of Gs of force on the outer rim.
http://www.djblabcare.co.uk/djb/info/6/User_Tools

33cm bowl diameter [13" drum] at 1500 RPM = 830 Gs
Simplecentrifuge.com's unit does 1200 Gs, so just run 2/3 of the flowrate into my design and you're golden.

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Old 04-21-2012, 04:44 PM   #140 (permalink)
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None, just figuring it would be a decent easy to clean out piece of iron. I don't have a 13"+ diameter piece of aluminum or even iron to turn a proper bowl out of, I've got a 13x3.5" drum from a 14 bolt.

It isn't about the RPM, it is about the surface feet per minute of the area occupied by the fluid. Larger bowl means less RPM to get the same amount of Gs of force on the outer rim.
http://www.djblabcare.co.uk/djb/info/6/User_Tools

33cm bowl diameter [13" drum] at 1500 RPM = 830 Gs
Simplecentrifuge.com's unit does 1200 Gs, so just run 2/3 of the flowrate into my design and you're golden.

No way that would work. But please start a build thread so we may watch your progress
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:45 PM   #141 (permalink)
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No way that would work. But please start a build thread so we may watch your progress
I suck at taking pics in progress. I think I've got 5 pics of my ranger build that I've been working on for 2 years so far.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:32 AM   #142 (permalink)
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I'll be running a mix of WMO/ATF/RUG on a 2,000 mile road trip next week, I can report back then and let you know how it goes.
bump for road trip results
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:03 PM   #143 (permalink)
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I just finished off a 55 gallon drum of hydraulic fluid through my 12valve. I ran it 7-5 , deisel to oil mixture. No problems at all. Went through a cheapy prefilter, then a 10 micron water fuel seperator, then to a 2 micron baldwin filter.

I had to up my idle after I ran out of the mix. Running straight deisel now till I get more waste oil.
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:37 PM   #144 (permalink)
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well, i ran my first few gallons through.... and it was good and bad.

good: truck ran quiter and smoother within the first 100 miles (1/4 tank)

bad: after 650 miles i had to replace the fuel filter... and then again after 175 miles. but then ran the last 200 without issue.

i'm not sure what happened exactly. on the 500 miles down ran great... less smoke, and better running. sat for 3 days on the lakebed... and boom within 125 miles filter is plugging up. swapped it, found some crud, put new one on.... 175 miles later same thing. changed it again and then checked it at about 100 miles and looks clean.

not sure what happened, but i'm gonna filter everything 2 gallons left of the first bunch and see what happens.
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Old 05-01-2012, 02:47 PM   #145 (permalink)
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I made a viscosity tester using 2 pieces of clear PVC like pipe that I picked up. I found ball bearings that fit remotely snug int eh cylinders. I put diesel in one tube and my mix in the other. Cap em both, Flip em over adn watch the balls fall in the tubes.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:18 PM   #146 (permalink)
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well, i ran my first few gallons through.... and it was good and bad.

good: truck ran quiter and smoother within the first 100 miles (1/4 tank)

bad: after 650 miles i had to replace the fuel filter... and then again after 175 miles. but then ran the last 200 without issue.

i'm not sure what happened exactly. on the 500 miles down ran great... less smoke, and better running. sat for 3 days on the lakebed... and boom within 125 miles filter is plugging up. swapped it, found some crud, put new one on.... 175 miles later same thing. changed it again and then checked it at about 100 miles and looks clean.

not sure what happened, but i'm gonna filter everything 2 gallons left of the first bunch and see what happens.

I run a real cheap see through 3/8 inlet/outlet filter on the suction side of my first pump. Easily replaced . They clog up first, but are very easy to replace.

Cheap filter, carter 4600 pump , large baldwin filter with dip tube added (using filter as accumulater for second pump) and air bleed port, carter hp4601 pump, then baldwin water seperator filter, then pressure regulator. All in that order.

Basically a home made airdog. I mix straight into the tank and have over 4,000 miles on this setup so far.

I keep several of the cheap see through filters in my truck. Not had to replace the baldwins yet.
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:41 PM   #147 (permalink)
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I run a real cheap see through 3/8 inlet/outlet filter on the suction side of my first pump. Easily replaced . They clog up first, but are very easy to replace.

Cheap filter, carter 4600 pump , large baldwin filter with dip tube added (using filter as accumulater for second pump) and air bleed port, carter hp4601 pump, then baldwin water seperator filter, then pressure regulator. All in that order.

Basically a home made airdog. I mix straight into the tank and have over 4,000 miles on this setup so far.

I keep several of the cheap see through filters in my truck. Not had to replace the baldwins yet.
I do like that idea, of a cheep easy to reach filter.
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:34 PM   #148 (permalink)
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been reading, the oil mixture tends to kick stuff loose in the fuel systems and 2-3 cloged filters are typical when switching to wmo
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:17 AM   #149 (permalink)
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been reading, the oil mixture tends to kick stuff loose in the fuel systems and 2-3 cloged filters are typical when switching to wmo
It's most likely the RUG in the mixture. WVO users should always keep spares. WVO may as well be called fuel system diaretic
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:40 PM   #150 (permalink)
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what's RUG???


and yeah, i learned my lesson LOL

keep spare filters and a wrench to pull them off, and just a little bit of diesel to fill up the filter too!
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