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Old 05-26-2012, 02:05 PM   #176 (permalink)
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is anyone aware of a 20 micron filter(dont have to be 20 just around there) with no bypass valve like the Wix 33528 2 micron filter with no bypass valve?
In my search for something without a bypass to replace my FL1a, I found these that have the same 3/4-16 threads

33616 20m nominal

33519 12m nominal

33281 10m nominal

the 33538 has 1-14 threads
33405 14m nominal

Last edited by takotruckin; 05-26-2012 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:35 PM   #177 (permalink)
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In my search for something without a bypass to replace my FL1a, I found these that have the same 3/4-16 threads

33616 20m nominal

33519 12m nominal

33281 10m nominal

the 33538 has 1-14 threads
33405 14m nominal
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:59 AM   #178 (permalink)
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Hey, I have a chance to get a free centrifuge but in order to do so, I need 5 more facebook votes. Can you guys/gals help me out? This isn't spam, it's free to vote, and it's not a virus laden page or anything crazy like that.

The benefit to the Pirate folks is that I'll continue to experiment, continue to trade your old oil for my good fuel, and generally keep posting up what I find about mixing the different waste products. I'll keep doing all that stuff whether or not I win the centrifuge so really, I'm not sure you guys have much to gain other than helping me out.

Here's the instructions, it's pretty simple and will only take 2-3 mins of your time. And really, I only need 4 more votes so no need for the superhuman Pirate vote rigging. Thanks!

1) Go to www.missionsmallbusiness.com
2) Scroll down to bottom right and click on Log In and Vote
3) Enter the name PA BIODIESEL SUPPLY, and the State is Pennsylvania
4) Click vote
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:20 AM   #179 (permalink)
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... I'm going to do some city driving the rest of the week and see if it starts smoking on this mix.
The update on the smoking is that it only does it when the engine is cold. If I start it up and let it idle in the driveway, it'll give a haze. If I start it up and drive 1.5+ miles, the haze is gone and the exhaust is completely clear, even when I'm idling 15+ minutes. I'm VERY pleased with this ATF mix and look forward to getting the WMO mix to burn just as clean.
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:40 AM   #180 (permalink)
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i would vote for ya but im not a facebook member
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:12 PM   #181 (permalink)
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i would vote for ya but im not a facebook member
I dunno why so many companies are using Facebook, I have to log into the wife's account half the time just to take advantage of different offers and such. I appreciate you trying though...
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:22 AM   #182 (permalink)
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i voted but dont see how it is tracked back to you...
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Old 05-30-2012, 07:35 AM   #183 (permalink)
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You're voting for his company is how.

I just did so as well.
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:19 AM   #184 (permalink)
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I dunno why so many companies are using Facebook, I have to log into the wife's account half the time just to take advantage of different offers and such. I appreciate you trying though...
because Facebook is a gold mine of personal data, regional data and advertisements.

I'd rock a vote, but will not do so with my facebook account because of the privacy concerns, sorry

my dog's account voted for you.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:57 AM   #185 (permalink)
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Norcalzuk, Mr. Mindless, and 87Manche's dog; I appreciate it since your 3 votes put me over the required limit

On the topic of filters, Amazon has the whole house water filters (no bypass) cheapest at right around $15.40. I ordered two of them and plan to return the others to Lowes as soon as they arrive.

**Edit** Here's the link so you don't have to search around: http://www.amazon.com/Culligan-HF-15...8401108&sr=8-1
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:10 PM   #186 (permalink)
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because Facebook is a gold mine of personal data, regional data and advertisements.

I'd rock a vote, but will not do so with my facebook account because of the privacy concerns, sorry

my dog's account voted for you.
Hmm...

My dogs need accounts.

I didn't want to vote for the same reason, I always decline the ones that want you to provide your personal info--not that others do without asking, but I at least try to keep the blatant ones denied!
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:20 AM   #187 (permalink)
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Another quick tip: A fuel pressure gauge is a must to help know if your viscosity is correct. Last night under WOT, my fuel pressure dropped to around 20. On straight diesel it never dropped below 30 so even though I wasn't seeing any smoke, I figured that my mix was too heavy. Since I had about 10 gallons in the tank, I added 1.05 gallons of RUG at the station. About 10 minutes later after it had thoroughly mixed, my WOT fuel pressure was just above 30 and I knew my viscosity was spot on.

When using WATF, I will now use the multiplier of .15 meaning that if you have 10 gallons of WATF, you need to multiply that by .15 to know how much gas you should add. For WMO, my current multiplier is .20 although the next batch will be changed to .24.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:40 AM   #188 (permalink)
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the possibly tougher call to make could be whether fuel pressure drop would be due to a clogging filter or the fuel viscosity, would it not? I judge when to change my filter now based on pressure drop under high load, and I'd expect the symptom to be identical.
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:20 PM   #189 (permalink)
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You're absolutely right about using fuel pressure (FP) to know when a filter is clogging but my experience has been that most of the time filters clog gradually. If you put a new mix in your tank and immediately the FP drops, odds are that your viscosity is high. If you're already 75 miles or more into the tank and FP starts dropping, it's most likely not a viscosity problem and probably your filter clogging up.

BUT, if you use a multiplier close to my baselines, it should help eliminate viscosity as long as you know what's in your oil mix and it isn't "heavier" than what you think to begin with.
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:44 PM   #190 (permalink)
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good call, proximity to fueling...
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:13 AM   #191 (permalink)
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You're voting for his company is how.

I just did so as well.
ok i get it lol,maybe?if you own the company why do you need a free centrifuge lol?
so i am finally trying this out got my 1st 10 gals in the tank.i am doing a 50/50 mix with diesel and i did a 20% RUG with the oil.if i keep doing a 50/50 i would think i could drop the RUG % down to say 10% just to help clean the oil?
so far just a little hazing at idle when it sits idleing for a bit.i like the fuel pressure guage idea
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:37 AM   #192 (permalink)
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ok i get it lol,maybe?if you own the company why do you need a free centrifuge lol?
Could be just starting out or hasn't produced enough profit yet lol.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:10 PM   #193 (permalink)
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ok i get it lol,maybe?if you own the company why do you need a free centrifuge lol?
so i am finally trying this out got my 1st 10 gals in the tank.i am doing a 50/50 mix with diesel and i did a 20% RUG with the oil.if i keep doing a 50/50 i would think i could drop the RUG % down to say 10% just to help clean the oil?
so far just a little hazing at idle when it sits idleing for a bit.i like the fuel pressure guage idea
Nah, I don't own the company but I have bought their products in the past and find them to be pretty straight shooters.

I'm not sure what % RUG you need to act as a cleaning agent. With a centrifuge, I'm betting you could go that low but with a filter I think I'd try and stay around at least 15%.

I say that because I ran my mix through a 5 micron fuel filter and it was looking pretty good. I then ran it through a centrifuge and after 4 passes, I had a decent amount of sludgy goo that had been pulled from the oil. The centrifuge is pricey but amazing, it's capable of getting the oil down to less than 1 micron. I'm going to run it until the bowl comes out close to clean and see what that does for my WMO idle smoke, I'll let everyone know.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:15 PM   #194 (permalink)
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Could be just starting out or hasn't produced enough profit yet lol.
Once I get my process to be 100% trouble free and totally reliable, I've been thinking about selling totes of clean WMO for us folks running IDI's and going across the country. It'd be nice to have 300 gallons of sub $3 fuel along, especially when we're only pulling 8mpg.

That's far off though, I still have to finish moving into my house, get my garage organized, finish off repairs, blah blah blah....
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:22 PM   #195 (permalink)
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Once I get my process to be 100% trouble free and totally reliable, I've been thinking about selling totes of clean WMO for us folks running IDI's and going across the country. It'd be nice to have 300 gallons of sub $3 fuel along, especially when we're only pulling 8mpg.

That's far off though, I still have to finish moving into my house, get my garage organized, finish off repairs, blah blah blah....


Yeah, I've started to order filters/heads for my getup.

I've got enough WMO/WATF on hand to break even for the cost of the filters at this point. I've stockpiled about 50 gallons of WMO and I got a whole bunch of plastic barrels for free. The goal is to run from Ohio to Moab next year on waste oil.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:02 PM   #196 (permalink)
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Nah, I don't own the company but I have bought their products in the past and find them to be pretty straight shooters.

I'm not sure what % RUG you need to act as a cleaning agent. With a centrifuge, I'm betting you could go that low but with a filter I think I'd try and stay around at least 15%.

I say that because I ran my mix through a 5 micron fuel filter and it was looking pretty good. I then ran it through a centrifuge and after 4 passes, I had a decent amount of sludgy goo that had been pulled from the oil. The centrifuge is pricey but amazing, it's capable of getting the oil down to less than 1 micron. I'm going to run it until the bowl comes out close to clean and see what that does for my WMO idle smoke, I'll let everyone know.
i have been doing mine down to a 2 micron with a donaldson P551313 ,CAT hyd filter(suposedly absolute?)i may pony up for the centrifuge if this continues to work
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:05 PM   #197 (permalink)
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After logging quite a few more miles on both mixes, my conclusion is that WMO will smoke pretty much no matter what unless you're able to advance the timing (easily doable in IDI's). WATF will burn relatively clean and not make much smoke at all once the engine warms up. Since my supply lately has been more WMO than WATF, I've called DP Tuner to see what they can offer (they cater to the WMO crowd). Anyway, I'll see how it pans out and go from there. I've also noticed that WMO MPG is less than WATF mpg...by the tune of about 1.25-1.5 mpg.
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:31 PM   #198 (permalink)
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After logging quite a few more miles on both mixes, my conclusion is that WMO will smoke pretty much no matter what unless you're able to advance the timing (easily doable in IDI's). WATF will burn relatively clean and not make much smoke at all once the engine warms up.
This pretty much just says that WMO is harder to burn, something that oil manufacturers work towards to keep from coking up engines. I'm interested in how well advancing the timing works in overcoming this.

Your timing already advanced from stock? IIRC it is very retarded from the factory for emissions reasons, but advancing it results in a more complete burn and more fuel economy.
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:00 AM   #199 (permalink)
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I've also noticed that WMO MPG is less than WATF mpg...by the tune of about 1.25-1.5 mpg.
I wonder how much different that would be from running regular diesel? Math makes my braid bleed but I'm wondering the cost effectiveness for a trip like mine. Not that I'm buying a tote but it would be cool to have a comparison chart of the three.

Did you get that centrifuge?

Looks like you might get some rain, did you get the garage organized so I can fill it up? lol Gimme a call when it's convenient. I might be arriving late. I don't get my plates until tomorrow and I still have to get my truck in the shop before I leave.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:03 AM   #200 (permalink)
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This pretty much just says that WMO is harder to burn, something that oil manufacturers work towards to keep from coking up engines. I'm interested in how well advancing the timing works in overcoming this.

Your timing already advanced from stock? IIRC it is very retarded from the factory for emissions reasons, but advancing it results in a more complete burn and more fuel economy.
I don't know that it's harder to burn, I think it just burns at a different rate. In my IDI, I get very little, if any, smoke so I know that it's making a complete burn. My IDI is also an ex Uhaul so I doubt the timing is spot on (works in my favor).

My timing right now is stock but from what I've read on the net, DP Tuner has a W85 tune that advances timing and a few other things to get a clear burn. I'm looking at their 80hp econo tune as a potential problem solver, still waiting to get them on the phone though to ask a few questions.
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