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Old 04-01-2010, 08:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Arrow painting over rust

I built a trailer. A guy I know is supposed to blast it for me, but it keeps getting put off. I dont really have the funds to pay to have it done. What about wire wheeling the loose stuff, and as much rust as I can off and painting it? Bad idea? I have spent alot of time building this trailer, and I dont want it to look like crap, but Im tired of waiting on this guy. Is there a paint that would last and look ok over rust? Here are some pics of the trailer. It will have a sleeper on the front.
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Old 04-01-2010, 08:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Linex....(that would be cheap, lol) Any paint you apply is going to require at least the big rust to be removed. Obviously the more rust you take off the better it will turn out in the long run. Why don't you do like I have done in the past when I was short on time/money or both and every couple of days when you have a chance sand, wire wheel or whatever a small section of it and then prime that area until it's all done and then paint it? If it's even humid outside and you try to remove the rust on the whole thing by the time you get to one end the other end will have surface rust on it again, lol.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I highly recommend the paint made by this company - http://www.corroless.com/

Eastwood sells it rebranded as their own kind of paint, and I think there are similar products now like Rust Bullet but I've never tried any other kinds. I actually did my own side-by-side type comparisons and the Corroless/Eastwood paint is really just incredible.

Basically you would wire wheel off the loose rust, then wash it to get off dirt and grease, then paint. It lasts forever and if you scratch it it will only rust where the paint actually came off, rust won't ever creep under it.

The disadvantage is that it costs more than off-the-shelf paint. If you actually got it sandblasted I'd just use Rustoleum, but despite its name you really can't paint over rust with it. Maybe very small amounts, but it's nowhere near as durable as actual rust converting paint.
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Por 15?
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Old 04-02-2010, 05:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
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POR15 or the Eastwood stuff. Me personally, I've been using correless and eastwood for almost 20 years. Eastwood rust converter, followed by the rust encapsulator, then top coat with anything. Eastwood recommends thier chassis black, but they also say you can use almost any topcoat.
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Old 04-02-2010, 06:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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http://www.zero-rust.com/

I used this stuff on my trailer after it sat in a field unpainted for a few years. It had some HEAVY rustage on it. I wire wheeled the heavy stuff and applied a liberal coat of black zero rust as a primer then topcoated that with Imron a few days later. It has held up great for 5 years now. You can topcoat it with whatever you want, you don't have to, but it's semi-gloss/flat finish will show scuffs easily if you don't.
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Old 04-02-2010, 06:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You can get "Ospho" (mainly phosphoric acid) at hardware stores for about $15 a gallon. It will neutralize surface rust and allow you to paint over it. You still need to knock the big stuff off.
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOYOTAMIKE View Post
Why don't you do like I have done in the past when I was short on time/money or both and every couple of days when you have a chance sand, wire wheel or whatever a small section of it and then prime that area until it's all done and then paint it? .
With Mike on this one.....do a bit at a time....
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I have used 'Chassis Saver' on frames and tube work. Works great, relatively cheap, available at NAPA. Does require two coats. Be sure to close the container it up tight when you are done or it will harden into a solid chunk in the can. Here is a link for more info:

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the info. I think i found a guy to blast it for around $200 is that a good deal? Another guy on CL was charging $350 minimum. Thought that was a bit high. If I do blast it what is a good quality reasonably priced paint?
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Gone but not forgotten: 81 toyota truggy - LT1 - Th400+203+atlas3.0 - 60 / 14 - 42s. [url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=520948[/url].
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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or you can go to harbor freight and pickup a soda blaster and do it yourself...if you have a compressor...probably do it yourself for $150 then primer...$65 and paint $100....
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the info. I think i found a guy to blast it for around $200 is that a good deal? Another guy on CL was charging $350 minimum. Thought that was a bit high. If I do blast it what is a good quality reasonably priced paint?
If I spent the money to sand blast it I would spray is with some two part epoxy paint from the automotive paint store. Not sure where to get the eastwood paint
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Old 04-02-2010, 03:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If I spent the money to sand blast it I would spray is with some two part epoxy paint from the automotive paint store. Not sure where to get the eastwood paint
I concur. Etching primer and a good 2 part epoxy paint... Otherwise this will be a repeated activity.
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Old 04-02-2010, 05:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You are going to paint it pink right?
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Old 04-02-2010, 06:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You are going to paint it pink right?
If you buy the paint I will You doin any spring time wheelin?
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I've used naval jelly before and it works well for rusty metal. Knock off as much of the big rust as you can, paint the whole thing with naval jelly, rinse it off with water, allow to dry, then paint it and you're done.
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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If you end up using the Por15, make sure you use the black, the colors simply do not work as well at keeping the rust at bay. As well, you will need to topcoat the Por15 as UV rays will destroy it. They sell topcoat for it, but as said, you can use just about anything over it. I'd hit it real quick with same 220paper before I primed/topcoated though just to be sure; as well the satin finish takes topcoats much better than the gloss. I've had good luck with it.

If you have it blasted and you live in a humid region, you'd better hit it with primer right away or it'll flashrust. The sandblasting will make that metal real porous and it'll pick up the himidity real fast. I would go with a primer and then some type of epoxy coating. I'd say an undercoating would be a good way to go. Perhaps PPG DP90 I think it is?? Resto shop put it on my dad's 68 charger and it's nice stuff, lays down easy, almost self levels like the por15, and is super tough. I know PPG shit isn't cheap but if you do it now, you won't have to do this again for a long, long time.
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:56 AM   #18 (permalink)
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If you buy the paint I will You doin any spring time wheelin?
Not until I get a new motor put in! BMR was a little rough on the rig. Trying to get it done in time to take it to South Dakota in July.
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