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#76 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
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maybe you should consider adding some polish to your install...
mine's not cell phone conversation quiet just yet but it's close.
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Michael Maskalans Codriver, Game Day Racing #571 07.5 C&C Ram 3500; G56, 245 19.5s, 4x2, ARB 98 Dakota on 42s; then | now | build PARTING: 97 Ram 3500 - 24v, 13sp 87 AMC Eagle Wagon - 258/auto, mostly stock Fingerlakes 4x4 | M4wd & Fabrication | Right Coast 4x4 | Rock Modified | Rok-Freekz |
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#77 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143867
Location: lake havasu az
Posts: 425
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i'm working on it but i just snapped an axle and have other stuff going on. plus it sucks being broke
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F-350 cclb dually, 6bta, rtoo9513, divorced twin stick np205, arb 10.25 rear with 2nd gen gears, KMA front bumper, warn m15000 hydraulic winch, connex 4800, wilson 5000 antenna, wilson cell phone amp, lowrance baja 540c gps, scanner, premier power welder, onboard shower, 235/85/r16 BFG MT's |
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#79 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143867
Location: lake havasu az
Posts: 425
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i got mine for about $950 plus shipping from goodies truck parts. it wasn't rebuilt but they had inspected it and replaced external parts like hoses and the regulator. i was lucky to find one so cheap and shipping was reasonable too. they also had a flywheel housing for $200ish and i found a #2 clutch housing on ebay though i don't remember how much. also it shipped without the output yoke/flange or the shifter
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F-350 cclb dually, 6bta, rtoo9513, divorced twin stick np205, arb 10.25 rear with 2nd gen gears, KMA front bumper, warn m15000 hydraulic winch, connex 4800, wilson 5000 antenna, wilson cell phone amp, lowrance baja 540c gps, scanner, premier power welder, onboard shower, 235/85/r16 BFG MT's |
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#80 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
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My RTOO9513 was a full rebulid with warranty, complete swap all bought at once set me back $3750. Clutch, trans, SAE clutch housing, flywheel, ujoint, starter, some other odds and ends...
Couldn't find exactly what I was looking for on Craigslist since I was set on the double OD. If I'd been able to settle for a RTO there were a half dozen in reasonable distance with low miles around a grand to 1500. Then I'd still have had to scrounge the clutch housing, flywheel, etc. Insulating the shifter stalk made a huge difference. Still need to do another nice rubber mat on the floor and maybe double boot the shifter and it will be nearly stock quiet. Nearly.
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Michael Maskalans Codriver, Game Day Racing #571 07.5 C&C Ram 3500; G56, 245 19.5s, 4x2, ARB 98 Dakota on 42s; then | now | build PARTING: 97 Ram 3500 - 24v, 13sp 87 AMC Eagle Wagon - 258/auto, mostly stock Fingerlakes 4x4 | M4wd & Fabrication | Right Coast 4x4 | Rock Modified | Rok-Freekz |
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#82 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 76990
Posts: 114
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The large fuller trans should have 50wt oil in them, If you are running 80-90 it might help with heat and drag. People also need to remember the in the 1970s the big rigs pulling 80,000lbs were only using engines that made only 900 or so lbft of tourqe. that is were the 950 lbft trans were used. We have a gear shop in Wa state that my Dad started in 1982 and I remember building lots of these. Then things changed to the 12513 them 14613 and up, The newwer ones I see now are 18918 and even a few 22918.
Happy shifting |
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#83 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 84464
Location: taxachusetts
Posts: 886
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great thread. i just made a deal on a 9513 that couldnt be refused, but i dont think i wanna hack the dodge apart.
unloaded local driving.. you guys taking off in 3rd and 4th and then hitting every gear, skipping every other, splitting every other, etc? whats a typical 0 to 45mph look like? at 70-75 mph, is 13th a coasting gear or will the truck still pull a long grade with the .62 overdrive? (i have 3.54s and 235/85R16 on my dually)
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God Bless America |
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#84 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143867
Location: lake havasu az
Posts: 425
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in my case i used to start out in 4th but now that i have a pneumatic setup to actuate the clutch i start in 3rd. sometimes i skip 4th, in fact sometimes it's easier to skip 4th. i rarely ever use 5th over, and if i'm in a hurry i sometimes skip 6th over. as for climbing in 8th over situation dictates. at 75mph it does good but at 65 i usually downshift to keep i egt's in check, depending on the hill. for example i can climb union pass from bullhead to kingman in 8th direct at 55mph. my engine is a stock 1st gen with the timing bumped up and the afc rotated but unground. no fuel screw adjustments.
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F-350 cclb dually, 6bta, rtoo9513, divorced twin stick np205, arb 10.25 rear with 2nd gen gears, KMA front bumper, warn m15000 hydraulic winch, connex 4800, wilson 5000 antenna, wilson cell phone amp, lowrance baja 540c gps, scanner, premier power welder, onboard shower, 235/85/r16 BFG MT's |
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#86 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143867
Location: lake havasu az
Posts: 425
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i couldn't figure out any other way to do it so i used a treadle valve for air brakes and a pneumatic ram to push on the arm coming off the clutch fork. it's nice in that you can push the clutch pedal down with your pinky, it sucks in that there is no feel to it at all.
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F-350 cclb dually, 6bta, rtoo9513, divorced twin stick np205, arb 10.25 rear with 2nd gen gears, KMA front bumper, warn m15000 hydraulic winch, connex 4800, wilson 5000 antenna, wilson cell phone amp, lowrance baja 540c gps, scanner, premier power welder, onboard shower, 235/85/r16 BFG MT's |
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#88 (permalink) | |
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$5 Fine For Whinin'
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142381
Location: Houston, Texas Area
Posts: 856
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Quote:
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Project "Lacking Time" |
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#89 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143867
Location: lake havasu az
Posts: 425
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i can feather it a little but i have to do it visually. i have a rod coming off the crossbar and it sticks up through the floor. the main reason for that was as a limp home measure if the treadle valve or something went out but i use it as a visual indication of where the clutch is in addition to the sound of the engine.
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F-350 cclb dually, 6bta, rtoo9513, divorced twin stick np205, arb 10.25 rear with 2nd gen gears, KMA front bumper, warn m15000 hydraulic winch, connex 4800, wilson 5000 antenna, wilson cell phone amp, lowrance baja 540c gps, scanner, premier power welder, onboard shower, 235/85/r16 BFG MT's |
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#91 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 84464
Location: taxachusetts
Posts: 886
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so when you step on the clutch, are you applying air to a cylinder or releasing air from the cylinder? im not familiar with treadle valves.. but wonder if its possible to use a restrictor, adjustable muffler or some other form of fill/bleed orifice to give an adjustable speed to the cylinder motion. this way you dont get feedback but atleast a timed delay.
..lift the pedal and its eases into engagement over a 3 second span sort of thing. ??
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God Bless America |
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#92 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143867
Location: lake havasu az
Posts: 425
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it applies pressure. i tried using a needle valve to do that but it didn't work well. now i have a worn out shock absorber on there that has minimal effect on release but helps slow it down a little on engagement. keeps me from stalling it at least.
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F-350 cclb dually, 6bta, rtoo9513, divorced twin stick np205, arb 10.25 rear with 2nd gen gears, KMA front bumper, warn m15000 hydraulic winch, connex 4800, wilson 5000 antenna, wilson cell phone amp, lowrance baja 540c gps, scanner, premier power welder, onboard shower, 235/85/r16 BFG MT's |
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#93 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Member # 135002
Location: Norman, Oklahoma
Posts: 96
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The foot treadle is a pretty good idea. I bet an air throttle valve would give you alot more control. We have a couple trucks at work that use air for the auxillary throttle( crane trucks). They seem to be very easy to deal with.
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87 Toyota, 4.3, TH350, Dana 300(4 to 1), 60/70 welded, linked and coiled, 6.17's, 44" TSL's. |
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#94 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Member # 33536
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,142
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if you used an air cylinder of some type to actuate the clutch why would you need a pedal at all?
couldnt you just have a switch on the gear lever or maybe something like an old high beam switch on the floor to hit with your left foot? Hit the switch the clutch disengages (under pressure) hit it again and the pressure releases slowly and engages the clutch... seems pretty damn cool to me. |
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#96 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143867
Location: lake havasu az
Posts: 425
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thanks for the suggestions, i didn't mean to steal the thread though. that air vale sounds interesting, i'll look into that. i was looking at hydraulic before i went air but it was a bit much. i've actually broken several clutch brakes before i regulated the air pressure down. as far as a switch i suppose you could use a trolley valve or something but a on/off switch would give you no control or feel. with the treadle valve you can control the clutch position though not particularly smoothly or accurately. for example if i can see my clutch lever i can let off the pedal slowly while counting to 5 or so.
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F-350 cclb dually, 6bta, rtoo9513, divorced twin stick np205, arb 10.25 rear with 2nd gen gears, KMA front bumper, warn m15000 hydraulic winch, connex 4800, wilson 5000 antenna, wilson cell phone amp, lowrance baja 540c gps, scanner, premier power welder, onboard shower, 235/85/r16 BFG MT's |
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#97 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Member # 112455
Location: SE
Posts: 956
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Sounds like more trouble than it's worth. While I'm not big on mechanical clutches it just seems like it would have been so much simpler to go that route.
How much would it have been to go with a normal hydro setup? Or are hydraulic big clutch parts just too pricey still? |
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#99 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143867
Location: lake havasu az
Posts: 425
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i'm using a pull type 14" dual disk ceramic clutch. i tried figuring out how to go hydraulic but couldn't get enough travel. i know that there are trucks that use them but the only style i've found mounts under the clutch housing which would reduce ground clearance
edit: the red bottle is my steering reservoir
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F-350 cclb dually, 6bta, rtoo9513, divorced twin stick np205, arb 10.25 rear with 2nd gen gears, KMA front bumper, warn m15000 hydraulic winch, connex 4800, wilson 5000 antenna, wilson cell phone amp, lowrance baja 540c gps, scanner, premier power welder, onboard shower, 235/85/r16 BFG MT's Last edited by chrisevans2645; 02-12-2012 at 09:32 AM. |
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#100 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Member # 192237
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,389
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Get a couple little 6" travel .5-1" bore hydraulic rams and work out a hydraulic loop between them. Same sorta thing, all the travel you could want, and good pedal feel so long as you bleed the system well enough.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic If you can deal with the excess length. http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic If you can figure out levers and such to increase the travel. Last edited by [486]; 02-12-2012 at 10:44 AM. |
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