Toterhome Build

[lurchseesu]

I'd say any 15k will bolt in place of a 12k. Afterall pretty much ever truck maker out there has 12 and 15's for any class 8 truck (or class 7 straight truck) they make and they want them to be as interchangeable as can be. Frames and axles are all more or less built to the same frame width and spring perch widths these days.

Wonder if you could take a leaf out of the 15k front pack because I have a feeling, it would probably be a bit stiff for your app. They're hugely thick compared to regular 12k front tractor spring packs. And they ride like shit even fully loaded. Maybe could just add a leaf to the 12k spring pack.

Big 11R24.5's or wide base 22.5's would definitely help your overweight front tire problem though.



Big tars.

[ridered3]

Any updates?

[1WVBubba]

WOW!!! Great thread! Awesome looking (and working) rig!

[4Linked]

Originally Posted by 1WVBubba

WOW!!! Great thread! Awesome looking (and working) rig!

Thanks! It is still a work in progress but has come a long way from the little truck it used to be.

I did some research and found a steer tire that may work for my application. I am looking at a 315 80R 22.5 Most have a load rating of 9000lb to much really but there is no tire in between. I will have to change the wheels as well I now have a 8.25 wide wheel and will need to go to a 9" wide. Only 3 quarters of an inch but it looks like it will be substantial enough to require the change. I am not sure about changing the axle yet. I talked to my mechanic and he doesn't think that there is much, if any, of a change in the strength of the axle or kingpins. I may ad another leaf or just add some air bags, like you would on the back of a pickup, to take the load off of the springs. My Kenworth has the 8 bag setup for the rear suspension and it seems like two of them would work fine and run an automatic level like the rear. This may even be a way to level the truck for sleeping. as long as there are no air leaks. Seems like I always have an air leak somewhere!!!. Maybe a simple valve right at the bag to ensure no leaks.

Thanks for every ones feedback I am already looking at future rigs to build. Here is a Bad ASS Pete that has had me thinking to a while would be nice to have a tandem rear.

[RoosterBooster]

there is a high speed steer tire that would work for you;

the Michelin XRV in the size 305/70R22.5 LRL (39.1" tall, 12.3" wide)
its load range "L" ; 7830lbs @ 120 psi @ 75 mph
it can be used on a 8.25" or 9" HD rim (HD rims have a larger wall thickness)

it seems many big diesel pushers have also a overload problem on the front axle so that Michelin had to design a dedicated HD RV tire ?!?

i think a tandem (add the axle in front of the existing) would solve a lot of the front axle weight problem

[4Linked]

Originally Posted by RoosterBooster

there is a high speed steer tire that would work for you;

the Michelin XRV in the size 305/70R22.5 LRL (39.1" tall, 12.3" wide)
its load range "L" ; 7830lbs @ 120 psi @ 75 mph
it can be used on a 8.25" or 9" HD rim (HD rims have a larger wall thickness)

it seems many big diesel pushers have also a overload problem on the front axle so that Michelin had to design a dedicated HD RV tire ?!?

i think a tandem (add the axle in front of the existing) would solve a lot of the front axle weight problem

I will look in to the Michelin. Typically they are to expensive for me but I like the size very well.

[Machinos]

Motorcoaches usually have a 16,500lb steer and tag with 315/80R22.5 L tires.

[4Linked]

Originally Posted by haddixj

Do you have any pics of how you attached the box to the frame? I see you said you used hardwood to shim between two frames. Did you have to plane them flat or was it not to big of a deal? I am planning on building a rv body on the chassis. I have posted over on truckconversion. My plan is to be about 30' overall on the truck and tow a 28' stacker for around 65' total. I planned on using 2x4 .25 wall for the perimeter and using 2x2 .120 on 16" centers for the joists. The walls I had planned on 1 1/2" by .120 on 16" centers with the same for the roof. What do you think will that be strong enough?

Here is a picture of how I attached the box to the frame not the best looking but it works. The hopefully the next toter I state on it more that a month before I need to use it!!

[camo1ton]

Just wondering about your "Flying Hook" cutout on the back of the toter body, did you back light it? Would look cool.