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Old 10-25-2011, 03:45 PM   #126 (permalink)
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I bet you felt great working on your engine in the wide open engine bay !
Haha!! Yes... It friggin' rocks!
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Old 10-25-2011, 03:55 PM   #127 (permalink)
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My goal is to have it running by the 4th Of NOVEMBER! That includes making the craigslist cummins all one color! Yes, that's 11/4/2011..

Goals aren't always realistic. This one surely is not!

Pics from today!

Spent a good two and a half hours hand scraping the one quarter inch thick layer of goop/grime/oil/dirt from the undercarriage. Also pressure washed the bed of the truck top to bottom and everywhere in between. Talk about time consuming!








Installed the new Idler arm & Pitman arm I got off craigslist for pennies on the dollar





I'm not sure if my metal fabricator will be able to repair this.. God I hope so!!!!! I know he can weld up the cracks.. But I wonder if it's going to be warped or not completely flat..




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Old 10-26-2011, 10:56 AM   #128 (permalink)
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I actually bought something from a parts store today... I realize that JBWeld is steel and the aluminum case is not.

NO This is NOT the correct way to do it.. But if it works, it works.

My wife's uncle (who was going to weld my timing case) is currently out of town for several weeks!!!






The good news is that it doesn't take long to tear everything down Hell, next time (IF THERE IS A NEXT TIME), I may do this:

Pull the cam gear off w/a gear puller
Remove the timing case & replace it
Heat the cam gear up in a toaster oven
Re-install it onto the camshaft
Voila...

It's just a matter of lining the gear up properly. This is MUCH easier said than done!


Puller set...




On another note, I've been thinking about what color to paint it. Even though I'd rather have silver, there are a few options that are relatively inexpensive compared to a full on paint job from a shop.

The reality is no matter what color it ends up, it's going to get scratched on a monthly basis. Deer lease trails become overgrown pretty quickly. This truck will be pushing through the overgrowth since I won't be trimming every tree limb that sticks out

*OD Green with Black - Black being on the lower (rocker panel) area of the truck. Green everywhere else.

*Bed liner - I've pretty much been talked out of it due to fading and a few other reasons.

*John Deere Blitz Black - It's growing on me! It's not very expensive. It looks amazing here>>


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Old 10-26-2011, 11:10 AM   #129 (permalink)
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JB weld? Jeeze for $300 I'd just replace it and be done with it
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...tml#googlebase
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:46 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Quote:
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*John Deere Blitz Black - It's growing on me! It's not very expensive. It looks amazing here>>
You saw my cheap beater Powerstroke and got all jealous, thats how that went down

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JB weld? Jeeze for $300 I'd just replace it and be done with it
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...tml#googlebase
This x1,000,000. The gear case is integral to the timing and the support for the pump. It is not really a case of it not leaking, which is important, but it is more of a case of properly and positively locating the injection pump. There is a lot of force in that gear drive. Welding it would have been marginal, but JB weld will not provide the strength required with those cracks to properly locate the IP, especially when putting load on the motor.

Best case scenario, with the case flexing, you will not have the performance you want because the IP is flexing around, making it impossible to get correct timing. Worst case scenario is you flex the gear train enough to start stripping teeth off of some of the gears. That will not end well.

AFAIK, all the P-pump cases are the same, and you should be able to get some cheap from the junk yard, there must be a big truck junkyard in Houston somewhere, or you may be able to find one cheap at an engine rebuilding shop. The one we dealt with in PA had a pallet of misc. Cummins stuff from engines that were too far gone to rebuild and they would let us grab misc parts for cheap.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:12 PM   #131 (permalink)
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*John Deere Blitz Black - It's growing on me! It's not very expensive. It looks amazing here>>


You're welcome.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:27 PM   #132 (permalink)
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First and foremost.. I wish I could afford a new timing case. That said, read on!

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldjeep
JB weld? Jeeze for $300 I'd just replace it and be done with it
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...tml#googlebase
I wish that were an option! Refer to my other thread: HERE



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You're welcome.


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You saw my cheap beater Powerstroke and got all jealous, thats how that went down


Lmao.. I forgot about that! That truck does look pretty decent


This x1,000,000. The gear case is integral to the timing and the support for the pump. It is not really a case of it not leaking, which is important, but it is more of a case of properly and positively locating the injection pump. There is a lot of force in that gear drive. Welding it would have been marginal, but JB weld will not provide the strength required with those cracks to properly locate the IP, especially when putting load on the motor.

Best case scenario, with the case flexing, you will not have the performance you want because the IP is flexing around, making it impossible to get correct timing. Worst case scenario is you flex the gear train enough to start stripping teeth off of some of the gears. That will not end well.

I think that if the cracks continue to the right, I will have issues with the injection pump moving around.

However... >>

*The I.P. is bolted to the block - This location by itself is not a firm mounting point. Even though it's bolted to the block, I can make the injection pump move a little.

*Based on this picture, the injection pump will still be located properly. All the bolt holes along the green line go straight into the front of the block.


Red = Where the timing case is cracked

Green = Where the timing case is mounted to the block.

Pink = Where the injection pump mounts to the timing case







AFAIK, all the P-pump cases are the same, and you should be able to get some cheap from the junk yard, there must be a big truck junkyard in Houston somewhere, or you may be able to find one cheap at an engine rebuilding shop. The one we dealt with in PA had a pallet of misc. Cummins stuff from engines that were too far gone to rebuild and they would let us grab misc parts for cheap.

I'm working on this as we speak. I have an acquaintance who's uncle owns a diesel shop. Wish I knew the guy personally! So the wheels are in motion on getting me a used one for hopefully very little $.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:49 PM   #133 (permalink)
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The block support it to hold the weight of the pump from cantilevering off of the face of the gear box, not necessarily for holding it in place laterally or rotationally. At least that is how it works with my VE pump, it has been awhile since I stared at a P pump. It can still move in the front, like you said.

The zoom out on the housing looks like you might be OK. JB weld will still not stop crack propagation very well, but that part of the case is not a really integral part for locating anything.

I am almost embarrassed to admit this, but I got some of that aluminum brazing rod stuff to "fix" my lower water neck, and it worked out a lot better than I ever expected. I would rate it as better than JB weld, but still not nearly as good as welding it. If you want to stop by some time we can try it out and see if we can F- it up any more
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:52 PM   #134 (permalink)
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First and foremost.. I wish I could afford a new timing case. That said, read on!



I wish that were an option! Refer to my other thread: HERE


If you can't afford the timing case, how are you going to afford to replace all those gears when the hillbilly fix blows up?
Might be time to just take a break and work on some other stuff while you save up a few dollars.
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:05 PM   #135 (permalink)
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you mite take a peek at zolotone paint. wide range of colors, not hard to shoot in the drive way, you can mix colors togather to make your own blend of color. the stuff in nearly bomb proof to brush marks and lasts forever. i painted my willys with it in 96 and its still going strong. if you do get a scratch just dip your finger in the can an touch it up. from 10' away you can't see it. people used to use it for bed and trunk liner
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:37 PM   #136 (permalink)
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The zoom out on the housing looks like you might be OK. JB weld will still not stop crack propagation very well, but that part of the case is not a really integral part for locating anything.

I am almost embarrassed to admit this, but I got some of that aluminum brazing rod stuff to "fix" my lower water neck, and it worked out a lot better than I ever expected. I would rate it as better than JB weld, but still not nearly as good as welding it. If you want to stop by some time we can try it out and see if we can F- it up any more
I will likely take you up on that offer within a week! I'll make you a promise too! If it breaks and leaves me stranded, I will not put that on your list of things you'll have to live down

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If you can't afford the timing case, how are you going to afford to replace all those gears when the hillbilly fix blows up?
Might be time to just take a break and work on some other stuff while you save up a few dollars.
I completely agree with the point of your reply, no doubt! A new case is the right way to fix this.. Not to mention a new dowel pin and retaining tab.


The fact is, I DOhave the money to buy a new timing case.. I just don't want to. The good thing is this truck will never be my only mode of transportation therefore, I'm going to take the risk!

I am a cheap ass.

I've made that quite evident in every one of my posts in this thread :lol:. Example: "I wanted these 08-09 aluminum wheels, but $550 was not going to happen! So I offered the guy something I considered trash (the stacks that came with the truck) and he took it!" Another, "I bartered some of my time in exchange for a new headliner and rubber floor assembly to replace the carpet!"

Guys, thanks for all the input. I appreciate it a ton.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:38 PM   #137 (permalink)
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you mite take a peek at zolotone paint. wide range of colors, not hard to shoot in the drive way, you can mix colors togather to make your own blend of color. the stuff in nearly bomb proof to brush marks and lasts forever. i painted my willys with it in 96 and its still going strong. if you do get a scratch just dip your finger in the can an touch it up. from 10' away you can't see it. people used to use it for bed and trunk liner
I've never even heard of zolotone. I'll look in to that for sure.

Thanks, I like seeing all my options!
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:30 PM   #138 (permalink)
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If you weld that it will most definanatly warp. You CAN use the jb-weld on the aluminum case.
With the aluminum brazing rods not as much of a chance of warping. You will have to balance getting enough heat to melt the base metal but not so much as to keep it from warping. A fine line indeed.
Either way you go you need to prep the area. Start by drilling the ends of the cracks and opening the cracks up so you can get your "repair material" into them. I would use a dremel type tool with a thin cutting wheel or what ever esle you have access to to make channel you can fit the new material inbetween the old pieces. with the jb-weld I would drill some intersecting holes to give the jb some voids to flow into and get some bite in the area. Then leave it alone for a day or two to let it fully cure. Then file flat and install and forget about it.

Other than that Awsome build, Keep pinching those pennies!

Just my $.02 worth. Take it or leave it.
YMMV

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Old 11-03-2011, 07:24 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Good news.. I was pleasantly surprised to get my timing case this evening.

I don't regret having patience!!

FREE Aluminum Tig Welding > JB Weld

I still need to clean it up with a file. Especially the hole for the new Dowel pin. You can see in the pics how one hole is somewhat obstructed.

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Either way you go you need to prep the area. Start by drilling the ends of the cracks and opening the cracks up so you can get your "repair material" into them. I would use a dremel type tool with a thin cutting wheel or what ever esle you have access to to make channel you can fit the new material inbetween the old pieces.

Thanks, that's what my welder did. He had to clean all the gunk out from the hairline cracks... Something I didn't even think about. I'm not a welder by any means! I'm definitely still learning. Anyway.. It was quite dirty so he opened it up more to prep the area before welding.


Other than that Awsome build, Keep pinching those pennies!

Just my $.02 worth. Take it or leave it.
YMMV


Thanks for the motivating words! I'm definitely pinching pennies!

Here are the pics!!

P.S. The snap-on straight edge shows a flat surface that will seal properly.











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Old 11-03-2011, 10:41 PM   #140 (permalink)
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Free Tig welding, Score!
Yes, A tig welder has excellent heat control. I've seen a pic of the bottom of two soda can's welded together using a tig.
That's not normally a cheap option tho. I was thinking you were going to try to have it arc welded with aluminum rod or an aluminum mig spool gun. that would've put major heat into your cover.
Looks like a Win to me.
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:27 AM   #141 (permalink)
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My goal is to have it running by the 4th Of NOVEMBER! That includes making the craigslist cummins all one color! Yes, that's 11/4/2011

hows that coming?
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:58 AM   #142 (permalink)
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hows that coming?
Lmao.. That certainly did not happen.

At the time I was contemplating bed liner instead of a paint job.

I'm in the process of sanding down the entire body... Still undecided on color. Likely silver or the sort of gunmetal grey the newer ones come in. Just thinking out here..

Here's a pile of parts I accumulated this week (aside from the head gasket which I've had).

I placed a standard size coffee cup there to give you an idea on the size of the air filter. Some of us know that filter well. It's call a BHAF.

EDIT: After posting this pic.. The radiator hoses look incorrect.. I'll have to check on those.

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Old 11-04-2011, 05:08 PM   #143 (permalink)
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You may already know this, but I've been told the Valspar Low Gloss tractor paint sold at Tractor Supply is the same as Blitz Black. I was also told to thin it with mineral spirits, not naptha. Seems to dry/cure much better.

My '81 K10 is getting the Valspar.
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Old 11-04-2011, 05:26 PM   #144 (permalink)
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Are those chevy one ton wheel cylinders? I usually have enough crap in my truck where the bigger wheel cylinders where a nice upgrade.
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:11 PM   #145 (permalink)
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You may already know this, but I've been told the Valspar Low Gloss tractor paint sold at Tractor Supply is the same as Blitz Black. I was also told to thin it with mineral spirits, not naptha. Seems to dry/cure much better.

My '81 K10 is getting the Valspar.
Thanks, I didnt know that! I'm about to start the body filler process.. Knocked off 90% of the old paint.. Time consuming is an understatement.

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Are those chevy one ton wheel cylinders? I usually have enough crap in my truck where the bigger wheel cylinders where a nice upgrade.
Hey Seabass.. Good eye! Yes.. Those are the chevy one ton wheel cylinders!
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:37 PM   #146 (permalink)
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I confirmed something I was already 99% sure of. My truck has stock 215hp injectors (5x.010)





Here's the cover after I smoothed it out with an array of files. It looks NEW AGAIN!!!!








100% Perfection was not the goal.. Just smooth and somewhat flat.






And this is where I left it.. New water pump, drive belt tensioner, new o-ring on the timing pin.

I ordered a new KDP, KDP tab, Vacuum Pump Seal Kit and a new (to me) harmonic balancer.

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Old 11-10-2011, 01:54 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Hey, that's my hand! Neat El cheapo build!
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I confirmed something I was already 99% sure of. My truck has stock 215hp injectors (5x.010)





Here's the cover after I smoothed it out with an array of files. It looks NEW AGAIN!!!!








100% Perfection was not the goal.. Just smooth and somewhat flat.






And this is where I left it.. New water pump, drive belt tensioner, new o-ring on the timing pin.

I ordered a new KDP, KDP tab, Vacuum Pump Seal Kit and a new (to me) harmonic balancer.

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Old 11-10-2011, 04:26 PM   #148 (permalink)
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I've never even heard of zolotone. I'll look in to that for sure.

Thanks, I like seeing all my options!
If you want flat paint you could try this @$150/gallon: http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx

I think I'm going to use one of the last 2 on the page.
Twilight Black Metallic or gunsmoke Metallic. I talked to the guy at the local paint shop and he said you have to be super ready to go all the way around because it's really hard to blend in. Keeping a wet edge is a must or do it a panel at a time. And no fixing drips, runs or polishing it out (obviously). Has to be how you want it the first time.

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Old 11-10-2011, 07:41 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Eh, I'm fine with black, and my wallet loves it!

http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricul...1-gal--1032961
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Old 11-11-2011, 10:26 AM   #150 (permalink)
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Hey, that's my hand! Neat El cheapo build!

Lol.. Thanks! And thanks for measuring them for me


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If you want flat paint you could try this @$150/gallon: http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx

I think I'm going to use one of the last 2 on the page.
Twilight Black Metallic or gunsmoke Metallic.
That's pretty neat.. Definitely a possibility! Thanks for the link, I spent a fair amount of time browsing that site

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Eh, I'm fine with black, and my wallet loves it!

http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricul...1-gal--1032961
LMAO.. I hear ya!! It'd be cheap and easy!!
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