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Old 09-25-2011, 09:11 PM   #76 (permalink)
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I have a high-pinion axle that was in an FJ-cruiser if you are interested. I was going to use it in my next project, but I may be willing to part if you want to make a deal.

The housing has 5.38 gears, a Detroit locker, factory fj-cruiser brakes and is a full floater with some spare shafts. I don't remember if it has the wheel speed sensors or not. I'd have to check.

pm me if you are interested.
it is in paso robles area of CA.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:03 PM   #77 (permalink)
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I have a high-pinion axle that was in an FJ-cruiser if you are interested. I was going to use it in my next project, but I may be willing to part if you want to make a deal.

The housing has 5.38 gears, a Detroit locker, factory fj-cruiser brakes and is a full floater with some spare shafts. I don't remember if it has the wheel speed sensors or not. I'd have to check.

pm me if you are interested.
it is in paso robles area of CA.

What exactly do you have? Not a stock axle I presume. Hi pinion 60? 9? 70? please explain. If Chris doesn't take this, I might consider.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:07 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Care to expound? I'm all ears, and not limiting to a bolt on option.
I would start by looking into different housing and differential options. Read through the build threads. Then get a hold of currie and see if you could just purchase the pieces you need to make the sensors and all that stuff work. I am a big fan of the Ruffstuff Housings. They are much cheaper than a currie housing as well, Almost half the price if I interpret both websites correctly.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:09 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Prorock 60
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:05 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by FJinCO View Post
I would start by looking into different housing and differential options. Read through the build threads. Then get a hold of currie and see if you could just purchase the pieces you need to make the sensors and all that stuff work. I am a big fan of the Ruffstuff Housings. They are much cheaper than a currie housing as well, Almost half the price if I interpret both websites correctly.

Ford 9 with ARB, regardless of gearing, HP or LP, or anything else as a bolt on (the axles aren't assembled to swap OEM brakes)

$4,426.10 which is an easy $800 than the All Pro website claims for RJ60.

The offer above that you expressed interest in I'm not familiar enough with any of this to determine what's even offered.

Class in session? Can someone explain?
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:29 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Dynatrac Pro-rock High pinion Dana 60. Used, full floater with spare axle shafts. dDisc brakes, 6-lug, about 70-inches wide. No speed sensors. It was under an FJ-cruiser. PM me if you are interested.
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Old 10-12-2011, 06:54 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJinCO View Post
I would start by looking into different housing and differential options. Read through the build threads. Then get a hold of currie and see if you could just purchase the pieces you need to make the sensors and all that stuff work. I am a big fan of the Ruffstuff Housings. They are much cheaper than a currie housing as well, Almost half the price if I interpret both websites correctly.
Are you keeping the recipe secret? Ha.

I've spoke with anyone that'll listen, and the resounding input here is "that ain't a bad price....if you want to keep the OEM functions". Looked into a built axle with local builder, and it comes within the same range at the Currie, but a much prettier housing.

Newest member of the blue room, with engineering background, re-iterated the same, and an All-Pro email stated they were testing the Currie 9 (no other specifications given) under a Tacoma, front and rear.

Is this the gold standard?

Also, in regards to the front axles. At what point will the RCV offerings be advantageous? I know FJNewb's stated they've been added to increase travel that was limited by the CV, and the numbers on his make the acquisition sensible. Is the RCV's biggest advantage merely the increased CV angle? If dealing with overall travel numbers much less, that the CV isn't going to limit, is it prudent to upgrade? Eliminate issues? Simply, is a product capable of the travel discussed on FJNewb's essentially bulletproof on a front end only capable of 4" less travel? How about a front locker and SC addition to the equation?
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Old 10-12-2011, 01:40 PM   #83 (permalink)
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In regards to front CVs, my drive for going to RCV axles was that the OEM inboard joint was maxed out before full bump or droop on the rest of the Camburg kit. The biggest value for me was the increased travel. The side benefit was a stronger axle setup overall (930 inner and 60 outer with heat treated internals and shafts from my understanding).

However, this is not the typical axle they marketed for the FJC. The one they offered previously I think did use a 930 inner, but the outer was still a rzeppa joint. Both had various internals upgraded with chrom-moly parts. I still haven't got a clear answer on why RCV stopped offering these.


The concern the upgraded axles bring is whether or not they now let go first or now if your r&p does instead.

In general the OEM CVs hold up well enough for most folks. Failures tend to be when folks have got their wheels locked and are applying substantial loads from what I've seen and the retainer cage gives.
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:52 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Oops duplicate post

Last edited by RoseCityCzar; 10-12-2011 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:57 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Speaking of RCV axles.
After breaking 3 axles and weighing the cost difference between cromoly shafts with $300 u joints and the RCV axles went with the RCV.
Got a great price thru a friend's shop.
Now I have a $3500+ Dana 44.
Should have started with a 60 or diamond or the like.

Going to see how it goes.
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:56 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJLED View Post
In regards to front CVs, my drive for going to RCV axles was that the OEM inboard joint was maxed out before full bump or droop on the rest of the Camburg kit. The biggest value for me was the increased travel. The side benefit was a stronger axle setup overall (930 inner and 60 outer with heat treated internals and shafts from my understanding).

However, this is not the typical axle they marketed for the FJC. The one they offered previously I think did use a 930 inner, but the outer was still a rzeppa joint. Both had various internals upgraded with chrom-moly parts. I still haven't got a clear answer on why RCV stopped offering these.


The concern the upgraded axles bring is whether or not they now let go first or now if your r&p does instead.

In general the OEM CVs hold up well enough for most folks. Failures tend to be when folks have got their wheels locked and are applying substantial loads from what I've seen and the retainer cage gives.
Had plans for a complete third axle assembly. Proceed with, since the travel/bind issue won't be a problem.
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Old 10-13-2011, 09:53 AM   #87 (permalink)
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In regards to the front and locker. Depending on what gears you go with and the material, I'd probably have them heat treated as an extra measure of saftey if funds allow for it. Something I wish I had done before having Dave toss my gear set it.

That way if you ever do end up upgrading axles you at least have a bit more reassurance on the front r&p.

I may still end up buying a spare fron R&P and heat treat them or a tundra front clamshell and gear set (still waiting to get measurements from folks on this tho to see how much fabrication it require and if it fits within the space available).

Last edited by FJLED; 10-13-2011 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:00 AM   #88 (permalink)
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In regards to the front and locker. Depending on what gears you go with and the material, I'd probably have them heat treated as an extra measure of saftey if funds allow for it. Something I wish I had done before having Dave toss my gear set it.

That way if you ever do end up upgrading axles you at least have a bit more reassurance on the front r&p.

I may still end up buying a spare fron R&P and heat treat them or a tundra front clamshell and gear set (still waiting to get measurements from folks on this tho to see how much fabrication it require and if it fits within the space available).
Yes, I have decided to hold off on RCVs until the CVs inevitably break. Further, I am definately going to get the front R&P cryo'd if those ever go. In the mean time, why has no one found a good solution for the tie rods. I know All Pro made the HD kit; however, I heard it splayed your tires outwards and created some bump steer. I may do some playing after the new year to try something else.
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Old 10-14-2011, 06:49 PM   #89 (permalink)
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All of the options have induced bump steer from my understanding. Think moog makes an alternative end that can be utilized on the OEM tierods. Personally would rather replace the tie rods or the CVs than my steering rack or r&p.
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