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#53 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 743
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Looking for some advice on my drive shafts-
The Front from flange to flange is 40" The Rear from flange to flange is 52.5" I am thinking about doing a 12.5" rear shaft to a carrier bearing and then a 40" shaft to the rear third. This will allow me to run the same length shaft front and rear. It sounds good to me, but I am unsure about the length of these shafts since this is the first long wheel base rig I have built/worked on. Constructive feedback? Will a 40" shaft on either end be a rock anchor? Wheel base came in at 119" btw
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Formula 4 build in progress:D Last edited by ColoradoToy91; 03-18-2012 at 07:40 PM. |
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#54 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 9771
Location: So Cal
Posts: 807
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I have a 119" wheel base on my Formula Four and I run two single drive shafts. The front shaft is square tube and can be used in the rear. I never worry about them on the rocks. You just have to pick the best line for your rig.
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I like to stack rocks on the trail. |
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#55 (permalink) |
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window licker
Join Date: Jan 2012
Member # 207564
Location: northern CO
Posts: 73
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lots of the ftoys run a carrier bearing on the front shaft for that reason. the only thing i can think of being a down fall is the tube in the rear holding the bearing. you might want to run a little longer shaft to take the angles alittle better. if you do it right 10'' of travel is possable with leafs so think about full droop. also longer shafts dont change lenth as drasticly so you could save on the slipshaft if you can recycle oem stuff. i bought an 18" slip from extream enginering and had them do it for me because didnt have a lath at that time and it was like $250. just a thought.
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#56 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Member # 123429
Location: azusa CA
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Last edited by seriousscout; 03-18-2012 at 10:42 PM. |
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#57 (permalink) |
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noob
Join Date: Jan 2006
Member # 66544
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Posts: 686
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I ran full length square drivelines in mine, they did occasionally make contact with a rock or two. The beauty of the square drivelines is that they are as tough as the rocks. Some may recall an incident where I repeatedly tried to make a climb in Tucson bringing the full weight of the rig down on the driveshaft over and over. Driveshaft had a slight bend. From time to time it was also nice to put the driveline on a rock intentionally and walk the rig over. Obviously the speed limitations are the downfall of the squares. If you decide to go that route I still have three of them I am tripping over on the garage floor, one has a slight bend.
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El Destructo! I void warranty's!!! Team Rock Limo F-Toy #F002 Yukon gear/Randy's Ring & Pinion, Trail Gear, BFGoodrich Tires, RuffStuff, 12 Volt Guy |
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#58 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 743
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Quote:
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Formula 4 build in progress:D |
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#59 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 743
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Got a lot more done over the past few weeks. I need to take the chassis over to Blast Tech to get the rust removed before I mount it permanently. I made the decision to skip the carrier bearing for the rear shaft. This will be street legal so I am going to have to try and balance a heavy wall rear drive line. Some Pictures:
Overall shot as a roller ![]() Front Shackle Angle ![]() T-case is ~1/2" below the frame. Not a flat belly for two reasons- 1. I don't have a 10* rotated adapter due to the single case 2. And as a result to get the passenger seat to fit decent the t-case had to be lowered from flat belly height. ![]() Drive Train Shots ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Started Working on the Taurus fan for my radiator
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Formula 4 build in progress:D |
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#60 (permalink) |
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IDIot!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Member # 44480
Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 16,646
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How about that rust convertor primer? I don't think the rust was that deep.
You're not planning to powder coat it, are you?
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Motive Gear Land Use Team http://www.tenfactory.com http://www.motivegear.com http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com http://www.mastercraftsafety.com FToy 086 - UHaul Toterhome |
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#61 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 743
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I hit a large part of it with one of these
![]() and it took the rust off. IT was super time consuming though. I have never heard of rust converter primer Edit: Not powder coating- spray paint and maybe some roll on hammered paint
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Formula 4 build in progress:D Last edited by ColoradoToy91; 04-01-2012 at 08:09 PM. |
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#62 (permalink) | ||
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IDIot!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Member # 44480
Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 16,646
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Quote:
![]() Quote:
Now that it's 4 years old, I like being able to touch up spray paint. Whatever color you pick, buy a half dozen extra cans for touchup (just in case your favorite hammertone paint gets discontinued or something).
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Motive Gear Land Use Team http://www.tenfactory.com http://www.motivegear.com http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com http://www.mastercraftsafety.com FToy 086 - UHaul Toterhome |
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#64 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 743
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$16 at Home Depot
http://www.homedepot.com/Cleaning-Re...&storeId=10051
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Formula 4 build in progress:D |
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#65 (permalink) |
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noob
Join Date: Jan 2006
Member # 66544
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Posts: 686
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They collapse down to 36" and they would still maintain 10" of engagement extended out to 48". Would be alright for your front but it sounds like your needing something balanced for some speed.
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El Destructo! I void warranty's!!! Team Rock Limo F-Toy #F002 Yukon gear/Randy's Ring & Pinion, Trail Gear, BFGoodrich Tires, RuffStuff, 12 Volt Guy |
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#69 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 743
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What gauge steel are people using for the floor, roof, and side panels? 20 gauge, 16 or ???
I am to cheap to shell out the coin for fancy aluminum
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Formula 4 build in progress:D |
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#70 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 17537
Location: Just hanging out
Posts: 721
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I used .063 aluminum as that's what everyone said to use. I found it up by Denver for 80.00 dollars for 4 sheets that were 4X10 I believe. When I get a chance I will see if my wife still has the reciept with the name on it. It was a steel place in someones back yard and really cheap.
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Tin Benders.orginthePINKracing would like to thank it's sponsors! Marlin Crawler Griffin Yukon Gear BFGoodrich Artec Industries FOA Hendrix Motorsports Poly Performance RuffStuff Crawlorado Raceline Wheels Savy Offroad |
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#71 (permalink) |
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Chubby Chaser
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Did he sell spools of copper and 'used' car parts too
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Eric Anderson TIN BENDERS Hendrix XR Chassis #001 Ultra4 #66 4Wheel Parts, Raceline, PSC, Bilstein, Marlin Crawler, Smittybilt, HendriX, PacificFab, G2 Axle, PAC Spring, G&J, MAXXIS Roxy's in the industry and I'm a sponsored professional driver. The two of us together make a powerhouse. Accepting the things I cannot change. |
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#73 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 743
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Quote:
Alreco, 11299 Brighton Road, Henderson, CO 80640 (303) 287-7210. I was thinking of using steel because I can weld it, unlike aluminum. Quote:
it is black and noisy
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Formula 4 build in progress:D |
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#74 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 17537
Location: Just hanging out
Posts: 721
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As a matter of fact he might have
But the price was right.
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Tin Benders.orginthePINKracing would like to thank it's sponsors! Marlin Crawler Griffin Yukon Gear BFGoodrich Artec Industries FOA Hendrix Motorsports Poly Performance RuffStuff Crawlorado Raceline Wheels Savy Offroad |
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#75 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 743
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Figure two months was a good wait for an update
. I have bee trudging away and make as much progress as I can working on it one day a week. I am leaving on vacation this weekend and won't touch it for a few weeks. Anyways, almost done with the floor, not bad for my first sheet metal work: ![]() Front End: ![]() ![]() Booster mount:
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Formula 4 build in progress:D |
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