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**First FToy in Montana! FT086 build begins**

147K views 504 replies 76 participants last post by  MT4Runner 
#1 · (Edited)
Finally!

I placed my order with Hendrix last week, and was assigned chassis #086.
I plan to build it comp-legal, and do it on a moderate budget. My 4Runner is an IFS frame and fullwidth, so I'd be scrapping just about everything but the motor to go FToy with it, so I'm starting from scratch, and will have 2 rigs. Anyone who knows me knows that I like to fawk with my rig too often, and it's more often on jackstands than trail-ready. Hardly ever breaks; just gets taken apart and then left apart for too long. Goal is then to have 2 rigs--one to fawk with and wrench on, and the other can stay trail-ready.

I initially ordered a chassis through FROR, but we didn't get enough pre-orders lined up to get a pallet of tube shipped economically from Hendrix to FROR. I'll pay about the same in shipping from Hendrix to MT as I would have put in gas driving round-trip to CO to pick up a chassis there. Since I've been trying to get this thing going for +5 months, it's given me a lot of time to doodle:



I started with an 84 shortbed frame, but the rear half was completely rusted through. The front framerails were decent, so I hacked it off where the rails go parallel at the front cab mounts and got it sandblasted.

Original frame:


Got a donor 90 xtracab frame from one of my sponsors, so I cut the back off at the tire carrier xmember (at the 152" position on the shortbed frame), and cut it accordingly so it would mate with the solid axle frame and give me a 152" overall length.

I cut a "scarf" joint in both rails--45º angle and welded them together. I'll put a fish plate over the joint on both sides that I'll also use to tie in the chassis and the floor.

I have duals and a 5-speed ready to go into my 4Runner, so decided to install the motor/tranny/dual cases in the FToy first for mockup, and buy duals/gears later for the FToy. I have the #001 MC07-R10 cast dual case adapter, and I'll buy another cast -R10 adapter for the FToy.

Moved the motor mounts 8" back and ~5/8" down. Top of motor mount is tacked in place still sitting on the framerail.

Plasma'ed out a crossmember and tacked it in place. I'll do a 4Rnr Rick style belly pan, and probably something like AirRide's floor/rear t-case xmember and also incorporate a rear CV joint cover into that for occupant protection.

Ordered PRP seats to start mocking things up, too.


Glacier Toyota of Kalispell, Montana sponsored me with a 1990 xtracab and a 1993 4Runner for parts. Both were clean v6 rigs, sans motors. They will be donors for rear axles, 3rds, brake and clutch pedals/master cylinders, hardlines, steering wheel, steering shafts, IFS box, and remaining parts will be bartered/traded/sold for cash or services! :D


Budget: $8,000
Chassis: $1,199
Shipping: $490
Frame(s): Free from sponsor
22RE: Free--traded for Toy parts from friend
W56: Free--junkyard clearance
Donor cases: Free--junkyard clearance
84 front: $100
90 rear: Free from sponsor
Used 5.29 e-locker built by Zuk: $550
2nd e-locker $225
Gears/kit: $230
Install: barter--trade for 90 R151
Long hub gears: $130
30-spl longs--used from M1: $550
IFS Box: Free
Tapped: Barter--trade for 4Runner doors
Surplus Center assist: $115
Davez arms: $129
Blackbirds TRE inserts: $26
1.5" DOM TRE: $60
3/4T Chev rod ends: $80
FJ40 Discs: $60
IFS Calipers: Free from sponsor 1990
Steering wheel: Free--was on 1990 xtracab
Steering wheel QD: $30
Square drivelines: Free--using xtracab shafts for donor joints


Total in so far: $3,974

Remaining:
36" Iroks or 38" TSL's: $800
Homemade beadlocks: $150
Misc. wiring: $200
Misc. Hardware: $500
Plus a buncha other shiat I haven't thought of yet.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Overall view, t-case mount, maybe flat belly?

I'll have to cut off at least 1.5" of the bottom of the mount to clear the x-member and skidplate.
 

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#8 ·
I'm really, really looking forward to having more than one rig! In all honesty, I enjoy modification and fabrication more than actual wheelin', but it will be nice to not have to ride bitch all the time because my rig is torn apart.
 
#18 ·
Still waiting on my twinstick for the Runner!!!!! I've got the clutch in, W56 in, rear driveline shortened, and square tube ready to cut for the front. Once I get the twinstick, I can find final t-case height and get the xmember welded in!
 
#20 ·
Looking forward to this build.:D Looking good so far. :smokin::smokin:
How far above the frame are you planning on mounting the chassis? Also, a rears up front conversion works awsome and is pretty much free since you are building it from scratch. They get the axle forward quite a bit and flex killer.
Take your time filling in all the stock holes, makes the chassis look really clean. It's easier to do when it's at this stage.
Congratulations on being the first in the state of Montana. You'll have to get that thing out here to Cali. and hit some trails when your done.:D
 
#21 ·
I'm going to try following Brian Ellinger's FToy 044 build pretty closely. I'm thinking rears up front, because they've worked really well on my 4Runner, and either Fords or a 2-3" YJ pack in the rear.

Would you even fill big circle and rectangular holes?

I have no idea on chassis height. Maybe 2"? I'll get everything as low and as flat as possible, but I'm 6'-6", so it will be very dependent on head clearance.
 
#24 ·
To answer your questions, I cut plates and filled in even the big holes. It just makes the fram look that much cleaner.
Also, I have my chassis mounted 2" above the frame and it leaves great head room. I wouldn't change my current setup with the chassis height if I were to redo it.
 
#25 ·
For small holes, I welded vertical-downhill. Started at the top, and let the weld pool fill downward and into the hole. When I tried flat, it dripped into the frame; when I went vertical-up, it melted the bottom of the hole.

For medium-sized round holes, I tacked in a washer. Welded around the diameter, then welded vertical-downhill to fill the center of the washer.
 
#27 ·
I used the tack-tack-tack method for this since it wasn't structural. Worked great. Then I came back over everything with a paddle wheel and cleaned it up.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I imported Hendrix' raster image (which is obviously from the original CAD vector file) off his website and into AutoCAD. I scaled that inserted image until it fit the scale in Model space, traced the lines with Lines, and offset them all 1.75" (tube diameter). I then plotted it at 300 dpi (IIRC) as a .pdf and worked on the panel drawing in PhotoShop. I can't guarantee that the panel design is 100% correct--until I receive my chassis--so I wouldn't recommend having a panel waterjet from that file. It's close enough to design side panel decals, though. I may design the decal file 1" bigger in every direction so I can trim it to fit.

Local graphics shop does all of our company's building signage, so they'll give me a screaming deal on big graphics. Anyone know where I can find higher resolution Marlin, Trail-Gear, PRP, or Front Range logos so I can just make their logos a part of the big decal?

If anyone wants the side panel layout, PM me your email, and I can send the .dwg, .pdf, or .psd file.

Project update:
Hendrix/Dalton got the chassis done on Thursday, and Megatoy66 is hauling my chassis north. Woo Hoo!!!
 
#31 ·
I'll take the .dwg file to earlkann@msn.com

A guy locally just had his 4runner wrapped. I wonder how it would work on F-Toy side panels. I'm worried about what damage it would sustain getting dragged against the rocks.

Loooks goooooood! You guys are making me want to turn my DD 2wd toy into a formula toy... But I think wifey would KILL me.

Scott
You have a lot of crazy ideas since you've been unemployed. Many of which potentially end in your wife killing you. If you can sell your Jeep I'll work something out with you.
 
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