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Old 02-25-2012, 01:50 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Update: I got the 3AN 90 degree fittings which I needed to make the rear flex lines between the rear axle tube and the floating calipers. Once in hand, the lines only took about 30 minutes to make and fit great. GLAD I am done buying 3AN steel fittings; they are pricey![IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
I dropped the Pro Rock 60 front off at Randy's Ring/Pinion in Everett on 2/21 then got a call from them yesterday when the gears/ARB should have been done.

Sooooooo, Randy's told me they can't get the damn gears to fit in the housing. WTF? They stated they've done about 50 of these Dynatrac fronts previously and had just done a batch for the guys running KOH; no issues with those. They believe it's some sort of casting issue/problem from Dynatrac.

I called Dynatrac and they denied any sort of issue on their end. They believed Randy's was probably trying to fit a "Super 60" 10" ring gear into the housing which is designed to take the reverse rotation 9 3/4" gear. They also told me that putting 3.73 gears in it was unwise. Their solution: send the housing back and they'd fit it with a Pro 60 center section which would enable a Super 60 10" ring gear to be used. Uhhh, no thanks, I bought the Pro Rock version for a reason.

Then called Randy's back just to see if they WERE trying to use a Super 60 gear. They laughed and told me they weren't that dumb and yes, a 9 3/4" gear WON'T fit in this housing.

Currently, Randy's has machined approx 1/8" off the OD of the ring (but told me not into the ring gear teeth yet) and they've ground/massaged the inside of the housing trying to get things to fit. I've got to trust they know what they're doing since gears is ALL they do. Anyway, they assured me that with enough screwing around/machining/grinding they will be able to get the gear set to fit. They also told me that if I'd elected to use a 4:10 (or higher ratio) gearset the problem would be even worse.

So, kind of frustrating and Dynatrac certainly doesn't want to admit they MIGHT have a problem or turned out some strange-ass housing. We shall see what it looks like when it comes back from Randy's Ring/Pinion.

Currently I'm re-plumbing the fuel system (I'll get pics later) and the front links are all made up just waiting for the axle to get back.

Last edited by Rock40; 02-25-2012 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:06 PM   #52 (permalink)
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This thing is pimp! Added to the buildups thread.
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:10 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Awesome! Thanks
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:38 PM   #54 (permalink)
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The Pro Rock 60 is now loaded with gears/ARB thanks to Randy's Ring/Pinion! I will post up photos of the nightmare (getting the gears in was a bitch) tonight after I get I buddy to help me get it out of my pickup.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:03 PM   #55 (permalink)
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OK, I've since been able to get the front axle under the truck and all the links are now installed.
[IMG][/IMG]

Randy's Ring/Pinion worked a LONG time on the gear setup as there was NO WAY an OEM reverse rotation 9 3/4" gear was going to fit inside the housing. Yes, it was a DANA gear and it was not a Super 60 10" gear. When all was said and done, Randy's had machined over 1/4" off the diameter of the gear and ground the inside of the case as far as it was safe to do so. The picture here really doesn't do it credit to just how tight everything is between the housing and the gear.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Dynatrac (to my annoyance) is still unwilling to admit that anything wrong occurred on their end with the casting. They are adamant about that and have a lot of reasons/explanation why the problem lies with someone else. Overall, not entirely pleased with Dynatrac. Not only did it take them twice as long to turn out the bare housing as they said it would but I routinely spent 20-30 minutes on hold trying to talk to somebody.

Randy's tells me that they fit these casting with gears often enough that they're quite familiar with them. They are normally tight but this one was ridiculous. Anyway, Derek and Ryan at Randy's get credit for a job well done! Thanks again

So, now that that is done, it's one to front end link/axle assembly!
[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by Rock40; 02-27-2012 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:47 PM   #56 (permalink)
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The fuel system is now complete/installed. I used 6AN throughout w/braided lines.
[IMG][/IMG]

The truck uses an external fuel pump which I've regulated to 60 PSI in order to provide constant pressure to the 5.7 Vortec. I used an Earls in-line filter (40 Micron) prior to the fuel pump. A 4 Micron Aeromotive in-line filter is just prior to the external fuel pressure regulator.
[IMG][/IMG]

The 5.7 Vortec also has a built in internal regulator in the injector pack then the un-used fuel is bypassed back to the fuel tank.
[IMG][/IMG]

I re-did the fuel system trying to make it simpler as there were lines running all over the place. I also added an in-line shut off ball valve prior to the Earls filter. In the past, I've needed to work on the fuel system and the damn tank wants to syphon every last drop out which is a real pain. Shouldn't be a problem now
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:29 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Great work!
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:03 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972fj40 View Post
Great work!

Thanks

Anybody have any strong opinions on ENGINE PRE-LUBING? This is actually only a few short weeks from firing up/driving but the engine has been sitting stationary for well over a year now. I'm sure the top end/oil journals are all good and dry. Thoughts????
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Old 03-03-2012, 05:08 PM   #59 (permalink)
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I used this

Summit Racing SUM-901010 - Summit Racing® Oil Pump Primers
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Old 03-03-2012, 07:19 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Yeah, I was thinking about something along those lines; the price is right. Just wondering if anyone thinks this is actually necessary given the amount of time the engine has been sitting
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:42 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Sittin' on all 4 feet!
[IMG][/IMG]

My wife graciously helped me adjust the front 5 link and set the toe in today after I mounted the wheels/tires. The front fenders are not mounted as I still have some welding to do.
[IMG][/IMG]

It sits LOW compared to what it used to with the SOA. I'm still working on getting all the little things finished up but got the 2nd battery mounted on firewall yesterday.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:01 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Too tall? No way



By the way, Team Trophy Challenge is starting up at TSF again. August this year. http://4wheelin.ning.com/group/trophy-challenge

And, a shot of you may appear in the May-June Trails.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:24 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Ken, SWEET! I've never seen that photo; that's some old school stuff from when I was still in the Coast Guard.

I will definitely be interested in Team Trophy in the future and it's been TOO LONG (2010) since I've been down to Tillamook. Thanks again for sharing the photo, Ross

Last edited by Rock40; 03-11-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:05 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Update: I media blasted both the exhaust headers and repainted them with POR-15 exhaust manifold paint.
[IMG][/IMG]

I also had to replace the old upper radiator hose since it was hitting the new crossover bar. I used an upper hose for a 69' Pontiac GT0 (400 cubic inch) which fits PERFECT after trimming the end. The Pontiac hose is 1.5" on both ends so I also replaced the stock Vortec thermostat with a CSI swivel unit.

Old EGR valve and thermostat out....
[IMG][/IMG]

New swivel housing and billet block off plate in
[IMG][/IMG]

New idler bracket (in place of an AC compressor)
[IMG][/IMG]

Pontiac upper radiator hose installed
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:11 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Been working on the exhaust for the last several days just trying to get it to fit. The clearance between the passenger side crossover pipe and the driveshaft is super close given the low stance of the truck and the high pinion front. I ended up with about 3/8" of an inch clearance between the crossover and the oilpan; now the driveshaft has a enough uptravel room and won't destroy the crossover pipe. Very pleased with the angle of the front driveshaft as it's VERY flat

The front pinion actually needs to be rotated down just a bit
[IMG][/IMG]
Crossover, oilpan and driveshaft clearance
[IMG][/IMG]

Also very tight against all the fuel plumbing
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:37 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Ok,looking for a little advice from the Pirate crowd here.....

I bled the brakes today and I am certain that all the air is out of the system but...the pedal is WAY too soft as it goes almost to the floor. I can isolate the front brakes from the rear and at this point I know the issue is with the front brake circuit.

So, the brake master cylinder is from an 85' mini truck and has a 13/16" bore. The calipers on the front Dana 60 are GM 3/4 ton units. My guess is the Toyota master cylinder isn't moving enough fluid (or quickly enough) to get a good firm pedal.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Ethan suggested sourcing up a later model master from an IFS mini which has an 1 1/8" bore and will hopefully move more fluid while still bolting up to the booster.

I know hydro boost or a GM cylinder is an option here but I'm wondering if there might be a way around that mod as the truck is nearly complete/back together at this point.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:14 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Yea, you need to go with that 1 1/8" master. Those Chevy calipers need more fluid. I went through a bunch of brake stuff not to long ago mine was a little different but same issues. Switching to a 3/4 ton Chevy master is pretty simple and cheap, the adapter is easy to make and you would just re flare to lines.
Real nice build!!!

Last edited by 4N JEEP; 03-27-2012 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:09 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Thanks! That is also along the lines of what I was thinking.

Got the truck started today after pre-lubing the poo out of it. Seems like the power steering fluid is REALLY foamy and the pump is whining like hell, not sure why yet and there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Figured there would be some bugs to work out.

Anybody have an idea how long it should take to get the air out of the power steering circuit?
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:25 PM   #69 (permalink)
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If you jack up the front end (before you start the truck for the first time) and turn the wheels side to side like a dozen or so times you will push all the air out. you can still do it. then turn the truck on for a minute then off and check for bubbles, you should be good to go.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:49 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Hmmmm, I did jack the front up in order to do just that. I've put nearly 2 quarts of fluid in at this point but the pump is still whining. It's slightly better than before. Also seems like the steering reservoir is almost "cavitating" and boiling around in there. It also still foamy which tells me air is still in the system somehow.

Is the large amount of fluid movement in the reservoir normal? The feed line to the pump is 10AN and all the returns are 6AN. Any help/advice appreciated
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:31 PM   #71 (permalink)
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This may seem dumb but do your front calipers have the bleeders on the top?
I have seen guys swap them side to side by mistake and that caused them to trap air with the bleeders on the bottom and they could never get the brakes to work right untill they swapped them back.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:16 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Ha! I've DONE THAT with MonteCarlo rear calipers but no, these are correct.

Still having issues with the power steering fluid getting aerated. It appears that the fluid in the return line to the reservoir is hitting the inside of the reservoir and causing it to splash wildly. Ethan is going to weld up a sort of baffle/reflector which will be attached to the cap. Hopefully this will cause the fluid to settle out.

Anybody else have an issue with this? PSC wanted to sell me one of their reservoirs but hoping a baffle will fix it.
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Old 03-31-2012, 12:53 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Quick update on the ram assist issues: I determined with certainty that the fluid was getting so aearated inside the reservoir that air was actually collecting in the pump over several minutes. Once this occurred, the pump started whining BAD.

Ethan and I came up with the idea of welding a section of 304 stainless pipe onto the cap which would go down into the reservoir. The idea being that the fluid would flow smoothly around the baffle and not aerate. This is what we came up with:

Machining the pipe down to fit snugly inside the diameter of the cap
[IMG][/IMG]

Two 3/4" holes were crosss drilled at a 90 degree ange to were the steering fluid enters the reservoir.
[IMG][/IMG]

TIG welding it all in place
[IMG][/IMG]

The cap/baffle as it sits in the reservoir. ZERO aeration at this point
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:01 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Also fixed the SUPER spongy brakes due to the fact that the 85' mini truck master cylinder wasn't capable of moving enough fluid (quickly enough) to engage the GM 3/4 ton brakes.

I sourced up a T100 (1993 I think) master cylinder and booster assembly from a nearby 4x4 wrecking yard for a good price The T100 master has a 1 1/16" bore compared to the 13/16" bore from the 85' mini.

I originally bought the matching booster but then realized there was no way it was going to fit on the firewall of the FJ40. The 85' booster is the small diameter and is still VERY close to the clutch master cylinder. Fortunately, the T100 master cylinder bolts directly to the 85' booster with NO modifications. I was able to re-use the same metric adapter fittings (metric to AN) and one of the brake lines fit with minor adjustment. I bent up a short section of brake line for the front brakes.

All in all, it was about a 60 minute modification and that included bleeding the master cylinder and the brakes. The new cylinder moves PLENTY of fluid and the brakes are now firm with very little pedal travel.

Pretty good upgrade for $75 and no real modifications necessary.

Here's the old 85' master compared to the new T100 unit
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:37 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Fantastic work. Love the detail in your write-up. I'm looking to do a very similar build in the near future.
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