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Old 04-26-2003, 07:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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emissons parts wanted

My '87 60 failed emissions, high CO. The air injection system is stuck in bypass. It looks like my VSV1 and VSV2 are bad, and maybe the ACV is shot as well.

So, anybody have a de-smogged 60 parts lying around?

Sean
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Last edited by Overlord; 04-26-2003 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 04-26-2003, 07:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i have a vsv from a 40 and a bunch of hoses on it....let me know if you can use it.
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Old 04-26-2003, 07:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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What years the 40?
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'87 FJ60 33" TSL's and cable lockers
'94 FZJ80 stock - the wifes "someday" wheeler
TLCA# 13587

[url]http://alaska4x4network.com/[/url]
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Old 04-26-2003, 10:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't have any spare parts lying around, but here's what I discovered in getting my '84 FJ60 to pass emissions in Nevada. I bought a used air bypass valve assembly from a wrecking yard in Albuquerque for $50. When I got it back to Las Vegas and checked it out, it was "stuck" in bypass mode. It turns out there was a lot of hard, built-up carbon inside. I gently tapped at it while holding it in different positions, and I was able to knock all the carbon loose, and emptied through the various ports. It works like charm. That may be your main problem. It's also easy to check the functioning of the VSV1 and VSV2.

By the way, emissions parts from '80 thru '87 Land Cruisers are all the same, but earlier years systems were quite a bit different.

John
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Old 04-26-2003, 11:12 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Emissions parts

The VSV's are not really #1 and #2. They have different names!!
The top one is a true VSV, the bottom is a BVSV(bi-metal vac. sw. vlv.)
All you have to do is remove them, and see if air will pass through.
The port closest to the threads will be the vacuum source.
Try and blow through the other port if you don't have a vacuum pump. If you can blow through it while the unit is cool then it is bad. If you can't when it's warmed up(about 160 deg. Far.)
then it's bad. If you can blow through the outer port when it's warm and not when it's cool, then it is good!!!
BTW they rarely, in my experience, ever go bad!
I would try and clean your diverter valve as 4cruisers said.
That can be easily done with a good ole can of carb cleaner as well as beating on it lightly!!

Good luck!!

Kruzrtek
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Old 04-26-2003, 12:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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its nice to live in a town that doesn't require emmisions, and on top of that farmington is only an hour away.
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Old 04-26-2003, 12:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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They have emissions in Alaska?
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Old 04-26-2003, 01:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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VERY strict, i hear

the cruiser is a 78.
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Old 04-26-2003, 06:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Emissions parts

Quote:
Originally posted by kruzrtek
The VSV's are not really #1 and #2. They have different names!!
The top one is a true VSV, the bottom is a BVSV(bi-metal vac. sw. vlv.)
All you have to do is remove them, and see if air will pass through.
The port closest to the threads will be the vacuum source.
Try and blow through the other port if you don't have a vacuum pump. If you can blow through it while the unit is cool then it is bad. If you can't when it's warmed up(about 160 deg. Far.)
then it's bad. If you can blow through the outer port when it's warm and not when it's cool, then it is good!!!
BTW they rarely, in my experience, ever go bad!
I would try and clean your diverter valve as 4cruisers said.
That can be easily done with a good ole can of carb cleaner as well as beating on it lightly!!

Good luck!!

Kruzrtek
kruzrtk@xmission.com
According to my emissions manual, they are called VSV (1) and VSV (2). No, biggy though. The reason I think it the VSVs is because the with the "open circuits check" they both read over 700 ohms. I haven't hooked them up to a 12V source yet because I need some alligator test leads.

As far as the ACV inspection goes, the ASV check is good. But I haven't done the ASV operational test because I can't get the damn hose off from the air rail check valve to the ASV. Anybody have a tip on how to remove the air hoses? I know I could cut it off but I really don't want to do that.
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'87 FJ60 33" TSL's and cable lockers
'94 FZJ80 stock - the wifes "someday" wheeler
TLCA# 13587

[url]http://alaska4x4network.com/[/url]

Last edited by Overlord; 04-27-2003 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 04-26-2003, 06:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by dieselcruiserhead
They have emissions in Alaska?
Only if you live in the Municipality of Anchorage or Fairbanks.

Here's the limits:

HC ppm: 750
C0%: 1.00

Sean
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Sean
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'87 FJ60 33" TSL's and cable lockers
'94 FZJ80 stock - the wifes "someday" wheeler
TLCA# 13587

[url]http://alaska4x4network.com/[/url]
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Old 04-27-2003, 01:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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To remove the hoses you've got to disconnect some of the "junk" in the way, including the easier-to-remove hoses first. To remove the hose from the check valve, push down on the middle of the hose and twist it back and forth the best you can at the check valve. Eventually it will pop off. If the hose is brittle at the ends, it might crack and start to split longitudinally, but I was still able to get a good seal.

While you're in there, make absolutely sure the check valve is working 100%. New valves are $25 from Specter, used are $12.

I think the valves kruzertek is thinking of are the BVSVs on the thermostat housing. The VSV1 and VSV2 are pretty easy to check out. One of the most important tools in working on these "spaghetti bowls" is a hand vacuum pump. The Craftsman I bought has paid for itself many times over!

John
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