Tube fenders are finished.

[helocat]

Tube fenders are finished, it took some time but they are done.

It was a flog session but I got them done one day before leaving for Moab. It took some time but made them exactly like I wanted too, no compromises. They are constructed out of 1.5” .065 and .120 tubing.

[helocat]

I did not what them to be tanks so I made them as light as possible. (Yet all 225 lbs of me can stand on them) If I should stuff one on a tree or rock, eh I will just make another. (Ok I THEN might make the whole thing out of .120”) I did move up the fender by 2.5” to allow for my future tire size and mog axels. I refuse to put a body lift on if I can help it. (RustyB Notice the hood latches? I took a leaf from what you did and pulled one of the bolts for the upper part of the latch and kicked it forward. The hook on the fender is a .5” SS washer bent up and bolted in place with a 5mm SS button head bolt. Works great.)

[helocat]

A shot of the Fab.
With out running wheal wells the motor ran nice and cool in Moab all week long. I never went above 200 the whole week. (Ok it was a cooler week than last year) For the local winter runs I will put in soft wheel wells to keep the splash off the motor. I did build an aluminum shield for the K&N cold air intake on the drivers side. (I don’t think my MAS wants ANY H20 going through it!)

[Jason M]

I REALLY like!!!

Wanna make me a set?


No inner fenderwells?

[helocat]

After talking with the guys at Moab Off Road at last years CM02’ I knew I would have my nose guard on before Moab this year. I chose to move the lights down below the bezel. The lights are LED simi-truck trailer marker lights, single wire units. However I have them running as both run and turn signals! By using a solid state converter used for trailers I have the stock running lights going in on the stop lead of the converter. The R and L turn leads out the other side of the converter go to each light. Turn on the running lights and they light up, hit the turn signal and the converter interrupts the signal and they each flash as they should.

Mark

[wngrog]

I really like them! Great work!

[Medusa]

Very nice, Mark

[Eric]

Looks good.

Do you run your rear lights on the same converter box as your front lamps? Any problems with flash rates?

[HighToy]

Those look sweet! Great job.

[TIKI]

Looks good Mark!

[chef]

Niiiice!

[dieselcruiserhead]

They also look great in person, very nice and smooth, retain the OEM style, but are nice and tucked up under there, and are definetely beefy! I also like the marker lights idea. Sort of like an old Ford or Chevy that doesn't have the yellow turn signal bulb. It uses the same filament for braking and signaling. And another filament in the same bulb for the running lights...!

[dog walker]

Sweet!!! Those look really sharp!

[texican]

Trash truck fenders!!!
Long story, ask Charles Kim......

I like em.
Butch

[helocat]

Thanks for the comments guys. I will beet them up for awhile and see how the hold up! (I am sure a tree will get one eventually, they seem to get in my way every now and then)

Jason, No need for inner wells during the summer. The soft wells (conveyer belt material) will do splash duties during the winter. I have thought about alum. But no need for all that, the soft stuff will R&R easier. No wheel wells were one of my biggest drives to build these. Last Summer was the first test of my 383 in real heat and the same cooling syst. that worked great for my 305 was taxed with the 383. (Little Sluice won due to how hot my motor got. Round 2 in Aug!) Air flow! It works. (W’ Harold was trying to convince me to pull the upper panels off each fender… a ya sure it would work but I don’t dig the look. But then again W’ has always been more focused on performance and not esthetics!)


Mark

[helocat]

Originally posted by Eric
Looks good.

Do you run your rear lights on the same converter box as your front lamps? Any problems with flash rates?

Eric, no not the same box just another one. The rear two wire simi-truck tail lights are controlled using a solid state converter as well. But on this set up I need to feed it the real brake sig. The front box is being tricked by feeding the brake circuit of that box really the running lights for the truck. As for flash rates, you need to pull the stock flasher and install a heavy duty unit. The HD unit is not load specific and flashes regardless of the load. (What you need for LED lights that draw a fraction of the amperage of standard bulbs.)

Mark

[FIXXXXAH]

THATS SWEET MARK YOU DONT HAVE ANY MORE INFO FOR ELECTRICAL DUMBASSES ON HOW YOU DID THE LIGHT SETUP, DO YOU? I'M very INTERESTED AS THIS IS WHAT I WANT TO DO BUT DONT UNDERSTAND HOW TO DO IT....

SO THE FLAT SPOT ON THE BOTTOM OF THE FEDNERS... IS THERE A JOINT THERE, OR A BEND? EITHER WAY I LIKE IT...

MATT

[BJ On Roids]

looks pretty cool, and another wheeling square bezel cruiser

[TRD]

THOSE ARE FAWKING SWEET

[Tooleman]

Originally posted by TRD
THOSE ARE FAWKING SWEET

Understated, but well said nonetheless.

[LT]

I need to find more land cruiser parts to trade you for those tube fenders

[Mustard Dog]

That is EXACTLY what fatkid and I will be doing to my rig next week

How are they crossbraced? Is there a tube running between the radiator and grill that connects them

[74_Chevota]

Wow is all i can say!! Extreamly good job on those fenders.

[ranger]

Very nice! Did you tie the back of the fenders in with the sliders/rocker protectors? Hard to see in the pic...

[rustyb]

Outstanding job. Did you solid weld the sheetmetal all the way down the fenders or do a bit of bondo type filler and sand down?