How would you handle this RUST? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Berg · 05-19-2003, 07:13 PM

Pics here.. thanks to Dieselcruiserhead
http://www.collegeinternetsolutions....enimages/rust/

What would be the best prescription for taking care of this rust before it gets too far out of control. The worst is on the inside of the tub as you can see where the fenderwells attach to the outer panels.
There is some cancer coming through to the outside but it appears to be minor. I am not going to pull the tub as one person suggested. The rust just isn't that bad. The PO replaced the rear piece below the ambulance doors and is not rusted.
I have Mig/acetelyne and arc. I don't want to warp the sh*t out of the panel. What would you do. I want to repaint the inside the stock Cygnus white OEM color.
Should I just cut out and replace with 14 ga. pieces of steel.??
Make suggestions.

thanks

Toploader · 05-19-2003, 07:32 PM

Like you said it doesnt look that bad, I would just wire wheel those spots inside and out. And coat them with a good rust inhibitor(spell?). Or plan on a time consuming cut and patch with the welder. If you do weld in new metal, just tack in certain spots, and let it cool, then repeat. This will help with the warping factor on the thin material. At least with this route you know for sure you have gotten all the "cancer" out though.
Best of luck.

Nomad · 05-19-2003, 08:01 PM

Hey bennett, I'm actually at the same point on my truck, '84 BJ42, and the tub is mint and looks alot like yours. At least I thought it was... I had the worst of it sandblasted and decided to cut out the rusty spots, and out of curiosity cut a little further along the spot welds(horizontal) to see what was underneath. It turned out being rusty between both faces even though it looked purfectly fine and not rusty from the inside or the outside. I've decided to replace both the inner lip of the tub and the outer sheetmetal while I'm there, and not wanting to do it again in another 3 years when it decides to bubble out...
Anyhow, if I were you I'd cut into it and see, that way there's no surprises a little later, and besides you're there now!!!
Just my thoughts on it...
Good luck!
Cheers,
Dan

Mr McGee · 05-19-2003, 09:07 PM

check out my photo page in the sig....you can see in the restoration folder how we used 14 ga diamondplate....

nuclearlemon · 05-19-2003, 09:17 PM

wire wheel to see how bad the rust is. in areas where you can wire away to clean metal, coat well with rust convertor and/or inhibitor. in areas where it's too far gone, patch. patching small sections will be a lot easier than waiting until later and having to deal with aligning the tub before you weld in new patches.

Berg · 05-20-2003, 07:41 AM

What about the supports under the roll bar attachemnt points..should I drill some drain holes in those for future drainage? Seems like sediment may build up there and can't get out. I think I may go in from above and look at those supports.
What do you do about those?

Cruiser Ken · 05-20-2003, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mr McGee
check out my photo page in the sig....you can see in the restoration folder how we used 14 ga diamondplate....

Wow, that looks like a ton of work, nice job.

chef · 05-20-2003, 11:29 AM

RustMort is a good rust converter. If you just want to wire wheel everything clean, treat it, primer and paint, and you live in a dry climate, and you never get it very wet, it will last a while...YMMV. That's what I did to mine about 5 years ago...right now I'm rebuilding the tub where it all rotted out anyway despite doing all this...so it's really a pay me now or pay me later scenario....-sigh-..."stupid rusty cruisers!"

Mr McGee · 05-20-2003, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cruiser Ken

Wow, that looks like a ton of work, nice job.

it was

Stupid frnch jackasS · 05-20-2003, 12:19 PM

I'm with Nomad on the symptoms analysis (incomplete diagnosis) but I'm not sure you really need to worry about it NOW... Brush and paint what you can, and wait a few more years then you'll replace the whole rear tub...

If it's just a few points though on an otherwise mint tub, you could clean out carefully the joints inside and out (bare metal), and apply a very good sealant in the joint to prevent anymore moisture thus rust... cheap and could take care of the little business

Denis

flexlarson · 05-20-2003, 12:58 PM

cut it all out ,heck cut the back of the rig off . Make a flatbed and be done with it.

oakley · 05-21-2003, 08:53 PM

POR-15 and never look back

dieselcruiserhead · 05-21-2003, 09:18 PM

I found this interesting:

http://www.birfield.com/archives/htm.../msg00802.html

If you read the followups you'll see some more good comments...

dieselcruiserhead · 05-21-2003, 09:20 PM

PS, thread hijacked!

05-19-2003, 07:13 PM	#1 (permalink)
Berg Registered User Join Date: Jun 2000 Member # 1176 Location: Utah Posts: 2,474	How would you handle this RUST? Pics here.. thanks to Dieselcruiserhead http://www.collegeinternetsolutions....enimages/rust/ What would be the best prescription for taking care of this rust before it gets too far out of control. The worst is on the inside of the tub as you can see where the fenderwells attach to the outer panels. There is some cancer coming through to the outside but it appears to be minor. I am not going to pull the tub as one person suggested. The rust just isn't that bad. The PO replaced the rear piece below the ambulance doors and is not rusted. I have Mig/acetelyne and arc. I don't want to warp the sh*t out of the panel. What would you do. I want to repaint the inside the stock Cygnus white OEM color. Should I just cut out and replace with 14 ga. pieces of steel.?? Make suggestions. thanks

05-19-2003, 07:32 PM	#2 (permalink)
Toploader Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Member # 16737 Location: Chillin with Clayton Bigsby Posts: 2,206	Like you said it doesnt look that bad, I would just wire wheel those spots inside and out. And coat them with a good rust inhibitor(spell?). Or plan on a time consuming cut and patch with the welder. If you do weld in new metal, just tack in certain spots, and let it cool, then repeat. This will help with the warping factor on the thin material. At least with this route you know for sure you have gotten all the "cancer" out though. Best of luck. __________________ 72 Rockwelled yeah whatever... All my shits heavy.

05-19-2003, 09:07 PM	#4 (permalink)
Mr McGee Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9216 Location: Kimberly, Wisconsin Posts: 1,830	check out my photo page in the sig....you can see in the restoration folder how we used 14 ga diamondplate.... __________________ Nick Hietpas...1985-2003 Rest In Peace

05-19-2003, 09:17 PM	#5 (permalink)
nuclearlemon Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Member # 1650 Location: communist city, colorado Posts: 1,829	wire wheel to see how bad the rust is. in areas where you can wire away to clean metal, coat well with rust convertor and/or inhibitor. in areas where it's too far gone, patch. patching small sections will be a lot easier than waiting until later and having to deal with aligning the tub before you weld in new patches. __________________ "Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid sideways in a cloud of dust, flopping into the hole totally worn out, shouting ..."holy shit...what a ride!"

05-20-2003, 07:41 AM	#6 (permalink)
Berg Registered User Join Date: Jun 2000 Member # 1176 Location: Utah Posts: 2,474	What about the supports under the roll bar attachemnt points..should I drill some drain holes in those for future drainage? Seems like sediment may build up there and can't get out. I think I may go in from above and look at those supports. What do you do about those? Last edited by Berg; 05-20-2003 at 08:08 AM.

05-19-2003, 08:01 PM	#3 (permalink)
Nomad Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Member # 3802 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 181	Hey bennett, I'm actually at the same point on my truck, '84 BJ42, and the tub is mint and looks alot like yours. At least I thought it was... I had the worst of it sandblasted and decided to cut out the rusty spots, and out of curiosity cut a little further along the spot welds(horizontal) to see what was underneath. It turned out being rusty between both faces even though it looked purfectly fine and not rusty from the inside or the outside. I've decided to replace both the inner lip of the tub and the outer sheetmetal while I'm there, and not wanting to do it again in another 3 years when it decides to bubble out... Anyhow, if I were you I'd cut into it and see, that way there's no surprises a little later, and besides you're there now!!! Just my thoughts on it... Good luck! Cheers, Dan

05-20-2003, 11:29 AM	#8 (permalink)
chef Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Member # 13912 Location: columbia, mo Posts: 2,493	RustMort is a good rust converter. If you just want to wire wheel everything clean, treat it, primer and paint, and you live in a dry climate, and you never get it very wet, it will last a while...YMMV. That's what I did to mine about 5 years ago...right now I'm rebuilding the tub where it all rotted out anyway despite doing all this...so it's really a pay me now or pay me later scenario....-sigh-..."stupid rusty cruisers!" __________________ Visit [url]www.tlca.org[/url]; TLCA Member 6235 TLCA Prez Emeritus

05-20-2003, 12:19 PM	#10 (permalink)
Stupid frnch jackasS Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 10010 Location: in your sisters ass Posts: 1,891	I'm with Nomad on the symptoms analysis (incomplete diagnosis) but I'm not sure you really need to worry about it NOW... Brush and paint what you can, and wait a few more years then you'll replace the whole rear tub... If it's just a few points though on an otherwise mint tub, you could clean out carefully the joints inside and out (bare metal), and apply a very good sealant in the joint to prevent anymore moisture thus rust... cheap and could take care of the little business Denis __________________ '71MS75 '73DW15 '75BJ40 '79FJ55 '84BJ45 '88LN65 '90HDJ80 '92LN85 '98CE110 Last edited by Stupid frnch jackasS; 05-20-2003 at 12:22 PM.

05-20-2003, 12:58 PM	#11 (permalink)
flexlarson Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Member # 3932 Location: Black Hills , South Dakota Posts: 794	cut it all out ,heck cut the back of the rig off . Make a flatbed and be done with it. __________________ I like my Zuk just like My Women, light cheap and top heavy . ZUK with 22re yota guts and yota axles 4.10 gears,Dual Cases with 4.71 gears ,locked front welded rear,Exo cage,seats , 37x12.5 boggers on beadlocks [url]www.midwestcrawler.com[/url] [url]www.rollover.at/midwestzuki[/url]

05-21-2003, 08:53 PM	#12 (permalink)
oakley Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Member # 733 Location: parker,CO,usa Posts: 204	POR-15 and never look back __________________ Greg '73 FJ40, '97 Vortec 5.7 LTR, SM465, Orion -- Almost finished...........for now - TLCA Member #10390

05-21-2003, 09:18 PM	#13 (permalink)
dieselcruiserhead Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Member # 12758 Location: Park City, UT Posts: 4,651	I found this interesting: http://www.birfield.com/archives/htm.../msg00802.html If you read the followups you'll see some more good comments...

05-21-2003, 09:20 PM	#14 (permalink)
dieselcruiserhead Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Member # 12758 Location: Park City, UT Posts: 4,651	PS, thread hijacked!

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