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Old 09-29-2003, 09:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Member # 22991
Location: Maine
Posts: 43
Post manifold gasket

I'm going to replace my int/exh manifold gasket and am looking
for some tips/help since I have not ever done this and want to get it done right the first time. I got a new gasket that is metal on both sides. I want to get a couple sets of new bolts/studs too because I have heard they tend to break. I have a stock 78 FJ40 and think it's leaking at this gasket. I replaced the EGR cooler pipe gasket and that helped a little. There is also a slight "ticking" sound from the eng. compartment the frequency of it sems to be linked with driving speed. Could this be related or maybe something else? Cruiser runs very well but the fumes are going to be too much for the winter and the ticking makes me wonder if it's something serious that should get fixed sooner than later.

Sorry to ramble,
Thank you for any help here
'78 FJ40
33x12.50 Yokohamas
4" Skyjacker
TLCA # 13782
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Old 09-29-2003, 09:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Location: Gig Harbor WA
Posts: 4,132
take a look at the bushings for the heat riser thing(it's under the carb, has the flaper inside, coil on front side), I have 2 cruisers that leak a bit out of this bushing.......not bad enough to screw with fixing however.

use a chunk of hose to listen for leaks, stuff one end in ear, other end poke around listening for leaks.

John H
2000UZJ100/92FJ80/90FJ62/86FJ60/82FJ40mustard/82FJ40green/78FJ55/67FJ45LBP/65FJ40LV/65FJ45LV/64FJ45LV/87 Chevy 3/4 ton beater
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Old 09-29-2003, 01:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 17477
Location: Springville, UT
Posts: 469
The hose trick works better if you put the hose in one ear, pull it all the way through, then listen with BOTH hose ends.
Then your're definitely gonna find the noise!

As far as replacement of the gasket goes, it is pretty straight forward, get anything and everything in the area out of the way.
All smog pumps, diverter valves, carb, misc. hoses, everything out of the way. Then get some PBlaster, not WD40, and spray all bolts and nuts to be removed. Let them sit as long as you can.
This greatly reduces the chance of breaking the studs. It is a very easy job, but a little awkward in some places.
When you re-install everthing, coat the gasket with a even coat of "copper-spray-a-gasket". Works great at sealing those minute imperfections in everything. Be extra sure to coat the studs and bolts with anti-sieze. Threads only. This will allow you to torque them evenly and they won't rust out in the future.(I put antisieze on just about every nut and bolt that gets touched on my truck.)

Oh, a trick I learned from a machinist friend of mine who is also an engineer for Toyota, was to never use a angle grinder or the like to clean the gasket surface. I know we all do it or have done it. But it actually makes for a very uneven surface in a lot of cases. The best way to do it, and ensure no vacuum leaks, is as follows: Take a length of 2x4(8-10", good quality for flat surface)
attach a strip of adhesive backed sandpaper(available at most hardware stores or paint and body supply stores), usually about
a 80-90 grit to get the majority of material off, then go up to 180 or so for fine surfacing. This will ensure you do not have any dips or what not on your gasket surface of whatever.
The biggest benefit for this trick is for head gaskets. Clean it as I stated above so that you don't have to get it milled.
My friend shows me heads in his shop all the time that guys have "cleaned" up with their angle grinders with Roloc disc's
and they are ALWAYS consistently .015 to .020 off of true plane!

That may not sound like much, but it will destroy a cylinder head gasket (with improper torqueing on different areas.)

Just my .02.

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