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Old 10-06-2003, 04:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Possible Front axle ideas

I installing a 4L60E with a NP 241 t case with a drivers side drop. What front axle should I put in. I was thinking that maybe I could take the 40 axle and flip it put the diff on the correct side and with doing a cut and turn with the SOA would put the caster back where it belongs. Or should I get a dana 44/60 that has been narrowed. The trails up here don't like full width axles to much. Some times the cruiser is to wide as it is now (stock axles).
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Old 10-06-2003, 04:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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other than the drain plug and filler plug, I don't see why that wouldnt work....not sure if the knuckles are the same if you just rotate them 180*....you may have to put the left on the right and the right on the left...
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Old 10-06-2003, 04:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I have seen the front axle flip done on cruiser axle before. You will have to cut off the diff cover and rotate it 180degrees, as well as cut notches for the ring gear but it can be done. dont forget the fill plug and breather will have to be switched too, along with shock mounts, steering stops and other odds and ends. You will definetly have to do some cut and rotate the knuckles action but it could work. Earl Warden did this on his double front ended cruiser I got to drive once.

No reason it cant be done. I say go for it.

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Old 10-06-2003, 04:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There are lots of D44's with driver's side drop...think FORD.

Another popular choice of course is the D60 from the Ford with the HP center...
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Old 10-06-2003, 04:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Isn't the axis that the knuckle turns on at an angle to the housing? /--That would mean doing a big cut and rotate. sounds like a lot of work when HP Ford 60s are to be had.
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Old 10-06-2003, 04:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by LCOwner
Isn't the axis that the knuckle turns on at an angle to the housing? /--That would mean doing a big cut and rotate. sounds like a lot of work when HP Ford 60s are to be had.
You could just turn somewhere near 180degrees and have the same result. still got to do the same cutting work, just turn the knuckles further(~180degrees vs ~15degrees).

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Old 10-06-2003, 04:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally posted by wngrog
There are lots of D44's with driver's side drop...think FORD.

Another popular choice of course is the D60 from the Ford with the HP center...
Which Fords have the closet WMS to WMS as the Cruiser?

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Old 10-06-2003, 05:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally posted by wngrog
Another popular choice of course is the D60 from the Ford with the HP center... [/B]
Yep...
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Old 10-06-2003, 05:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally posted by FJ40man


Which Fords have the closet WMS to WMS as the Cruiser?
None really...ford dana 60's are full size one ton gear...
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Old 10-06-2003, 06:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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what about early bronco front 44's? flipping the L/C housing would be more time involved rather than finding a ford 60 r/c front, but most of those r/c ford 60's ive seen cost a lot of money, then to narrow and have shafts done on top of that. beleive me i know plenty about narrowing a front 60 $$$. ditch that drivers drop t/c, is it really worth all the hassle?
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Old 10-06-2003, 06:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm just looking for ideas and or possible solutions. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel or have a one of a kind setup. I also need to do something to get disc brakes up front as well. I wonder how plentiful EB ford front ends are. On another front, wouldn't the Dodge NP 241 bolt up to the 4L60E as long as you change the input shaft?
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Old 10-06-2003, 06:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm also installing a vortec 4.3L in the cruiser as well. Redoing the cage, seats. Nolen has given me myinspritation to lighten up my cruiser. So, if you if you ever had an idea for a light weight street legal cruiser... lets hear it! I will take some pics and include them as I go along. I hope to have it back on the road by spring!
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Old 10-06-2003, 06:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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you should talk to "orangefj45" he can help you out on the 241 to 4l60e, and tell you what you would need.
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Old 10-06-2003, 06:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by wngrog
There are lots of D44's with driver's side drop...think FORD.

Another popular choice of course is the D60 from the Ford with the HP center...
Joe is in agreement here. 44 if you will run smaller tires and light wheeling, 60 for bigger tires and heavy duty.
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Old 10-06-2003, 06:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have been running 35's the 5yrs w/ a locker in the rear and an Eaton Super Brute up front. I Haven't even broken a birfield yet, running Moab and The Con. But I didn't always push it or do the super crazy stuff as much as it was my dd. But now, I can wheel it like Nolen and Woody, but I will try to keep it on its wheels . The biggest tire I could see running and still be able to drive it on the road is 38's.
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Old 10-06-2003, 07:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Im not one to be the "hero" on the trail but breaking stuff sucks. I broke a rear pinion 2 weeks ago with my 35s but Im currently narrowing a 70 for the rear and a 60 for the front with a 420 and atlas inbetween. I should be good to go now, oh yea and I picked up my new 38.5 sxs, I figure I will have the beef so why not.
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Old 10-06-2003, 08:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by joe cabela


Joe is in agreement here. 44 if you will run smaller tires and light wheeling, 60 for bigger tires and heavy duty.
Are you seriously talking in the third person here???
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Old 10-06-2003, 08:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I picked up a reverse cut D44 a few weeks ago for $200 out of a 79 F150, if you are easy on the stupid pedal it might be a decent choice

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Old 10-07-2003, 05:58 AM   #19 (permalink)
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look around for the right donar rig and you can have a 9in centered rear also

i bought my 76 f150 4x4 running $200.00 d44 and a9in rear look around maybe even run the coils in the frnt
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Old 10-07-2003, 12:51 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I think that I going to go with a ford 9 in the rear and a ford dana 44 in the front. Then again I might go with Hybrid Toy-dana 44 or 60's. So many choices, so much money and time.
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Old 10-07-2003, 01:43 PM   #21 (permalink)
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But now, I can wheel it like Nolen and Woody, but I will try to keep it on its wheels . The biggest tire I could see running and still be able to drive it on the road is 38's.
38's max.? IMO, don't waste your $$$ and time fixin' up your birfielded front or a D44 with alloy axles, CTM's, etc. A 35 spline stub upgrade to a narrowed RC60 is all you'll need
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Old 10-07-2003, 01:58 PM   #22 (permalink)
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If you want to lighten your FJ cut the stock body off at the cowl section and add an Aqualu aluminum tub, fenders, bib and sideplates. Ditch the hardtop and you've done it. Oh, don't forget to throw the boat anchor away also. I'm doing a cut and flip on two front FJ axles right now, for my crawler. It can be done in a lightweight rig. The heavier birfs should survive, if you don't do stupid stuff with the go pedal.
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Old 10-07-2003, 03:39 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The trails up here don't like full width axles to much. Some times the cruiser is to wide as it is now
You're right...however, things are changing on the trails and I can fit through Elbe, all of Naches (yawn), Walker Valley, and even all of Rimrock being 78" wide overall (60" WTW). I have 9" of tire sticking out past the mounting surface of the wheel
I was also worried about being too wide when I went wider. The fears didn't pan out though.
Full width axles do have some problems at Elbe and Rimrock.
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Old 10-07-2003, 03:51 PM   #24 (permalink)
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38's max.? IMO, don't waste your $$$ and time fixin' up your birfielded front or a D44 with alloy axles, CTM's, etc. A 35 spline stub upgrade to a narrowed RC60 is all you'll need
I still would like to be able to drive it on the road without getting hassled by the law.
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Old 10-07-2003, 05:01 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Aha! A major factor in how you build your rig...whether or not you will drive on the street and whether or not you mind being "hassled" by THE MAN.
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