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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Member # 1368
Location: Sacramento Ca USA
Posts: 261
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I am finally putting this front axle together and I am wondering which knuckles I should use. I think I need to use the mini-truck knuckle but it's hard to tell if there's any difference here. Also, I know it's been addressed a hundred times but how do you adjust the bearing preload? Thanks <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">
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69 FJ40, SOA, SR, PS, Chevy 350, SM420, ARB's, Disc brakes; Some assembly required! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Rock God
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well, i used the truck klnuckles. i do believe you have to..for birfield clearance or sumthin. also, the spindle bolts are bigger on the trcks so it will all work out properly.
for my preload...dont tell anyone (looks evily around the room)...but i just added some shims and felt for it. i started with if i remember right...1big and i small shim on top and bottom. then added em evenly to the top and bottom till it felt cleen. still tight and not wabbly but no grindning feeling of the bearings. its held up so far...and i didnt use a fish scvale. that is the proper way however i believe is a fish scale. peace!
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Dustin Crawford --- OPEN DIFF DEUSH' |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Member # 1368
Location: Sacramento Ca USA
Posts: 261
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Yeah I've heard that you use a fish scale but I'm not sure of the particulars. I guess I should pay more attention. All these threads become important at some point. Thanks
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69 FJ40, SOA, SR, PS, Chevy 350, SM420, ARB's, Disc brakes; Some assembly required! |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
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You use the minitruck knuckles. As for birfield clearance, you will still need to grind the insides of the axle housing. There is also a tool used to get the bearing preload set right. Don't remember what the tool is called, but it locates center on the axle. My old Toyota manuals show how it is used. I am not talking about the fish scale tool. If the preload isn't done correctly, you run the risk of wearing out the spindles because the knuckle is not centered with the axle. Goodluck with your conversion.
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God Bless America. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Member # 1625
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 455
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A fish scale is a terribly EASY way to ensure you get it right.
They are $2 at any sporting goods store, that sells fishing gear. I believe they preload is between 3-5lbs, but check the manual. <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
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69FJ40 & 72 FJ40 I"m glad I have 2, cause 1 is always F%$CKED!! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Maybe my memory is failig me - but isn't the knuckle preload measured in inch/pounds of pressure?
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>David > 4x4Spot.com >It only hurts the first time you agree with me... >"A little nonsense now and then is cherished by the wisest men." |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Member # 1625
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 455
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I don't know Dave, nor do I have ANY desire in getting into a semantics conversation with you. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
That's why I said check the manual. I'ts been a few months since I have done mine and followed the Haynes and Chiltons. I could very easily be innaccurate, but that is why I made a point not to quote <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
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69FJ40 & 72 FJ40 I"m glad I have 2, cause 1 is always F%$CKED!! |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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semantics debate? <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> puhlease <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
Anyway, when I rebuilt my front axle (mini truck BTW) I set it by feel... probably not the best way, but no problems and the knuckle stills feels acceptable (if that means much) 3 years and 20k miles later <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> As for the SST them mention in the factory manual - what the heck is that contraption, and has anyone ever heard of someone using one? <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
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>David > 4x4Spot.com >It only hurts the first time you agree with me... >"A little nonsense now and then is cherished by the wisest men." |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> , and it does help your seal and bushing. Phil |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
And I am scared to ask what that SST costs <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
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>David > 4x4Spot.com >It only hurts the first time you agree with me... >"A little nonsense now and then is cherished by the wisest men." |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Zeus of the Sluice
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Quote:
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God Bless America. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
So does it really help that much? save time? or just ensure you did it right?
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>David > 4x4Spot.com >It only hurts the first time you agree with me... >"A little nonsense now and then is cherished by the wisest men." |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Member # 1368
Location: Sacramento Ca USA
Posts: 261
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There must be a more specific manual than the one I've got. I have a chilton that goes from 70 to 88 in all Toyota trucks. It doesn't really say how to set the preload.
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69 FJ40, SOA, SR, PS, Chevy 350, SM420, ARB's, Disc brakes; Some assembly required! |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Member # 1527
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,034
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Preload is in lbs as measured on a spring tension gauge.
The procedure is outlined in the factory chassis and body manual. Some folks use the SST; most don't. Some folks use a hub socket; most use a screwdriver and hammer. Some folks also adjust the valves every 15K; others don't <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">.
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80, '72 GMC, Odyssey |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
-Valve remover 60$?? -Pre combustion chamber puller 50-80$?? -Diesel Compression test kit (THAT WAS OUCH$) -C-clip expander 15$? -Knuckle bearing extrator 70$? -Knuckle adjustment tool 130$? I don't remember the price of all units except the Compression tester a lil over 1100$US... 2 years ago, but it came with all the dummys and fittings for ID and DD. Phil |
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