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Old 08-13-2001, 03:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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i have a fj-60 that i'm looking to cut the rockers off right under the doors. i want to weld in 3/16 2x4 rectangular tubing in it's place instead of nerf bars. has anybody done anything like this and have pictures? also is there a problem with welding the sheetmetal that is left to the 3/16 tubing? thanks for any help you guys can give me

dave <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
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Old 08-13-2001, 05:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That's real similar to what I have planned for my FJ-55. I really NEED some rock rails, and I'm hopin' this will do it.

Any thoughts as to if Rock Rails need to mount to the frame vs. the body?

Seems to me if you mount to the frame you loose clearance. If you mount to the boby, it ain't quite as strong, but is it strong enough?

Inquiring Minds want to know....
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Old 08-13-2001, 06:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure that's what Morgan did to his 55. It looks awesome and from the reports he gave it holds up to abuse well. If you do your 60 I'd like to see it, post pics!
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Old 08-13-2001, 06:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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it's seems like it will be a good idea. just don't know what i need to do until i start cutting everything away. i'm not sure how easy it will be to weld the inside portion of the tubing to the body. was hoping someone had done this.

i have the page where morgan's 55 was done. doesn't say anything other then it works ok because someone else did it. i was wondering how he braced the inside portion where the body mounts and seatbelt brackets are. guess i'll figure it out as i go. i'll take pictures but with the rain we've been having it might be ahile.

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Old 08-13-2001, 09:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i believe morgan removed all of it from the door sills down and then welded in a 4" square tube to the body and also ran a couple hard points to the frame. you wont lose clearance with brackets tying into the frame. if your goal is to gain clearance at the rockers then use 2" high x 4" deep material and run 2" square ties to the frame. this is what i'm getting ready to do
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Old 08-14-2001, 01:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The rockers on my 40 were shot so I cut the metal off right below where the floorpan hit the rockers. I welded some 1.5x3'' rect. tubing under the floorboard and replaced the cut out rocker with a strip of 1/8'' x 1.5''plate and welded it all up. It looks clean and has held up good.
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Old 08-14-2001, 02:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Dave,

I run with two 80 series cruisers that have done this. It works great in the rocks.

Tom
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Old 08-14-2001, 03:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i just made one of the rocker pieces up today. still haven't cut the rockers yet, kinda have to get in the mood( a few beers this weekend should do it).

do you have any pictures of the 80's?

are there any tricks to welding the sheetmetal to 3/16" metal, just keep the arc to the thicker metal right?

dave
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Old 08-14-2001, 03:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Butch Lewis < butchblt@pacbell.net > did the rocker protection on my FJ55. It's just attached to the body, not the frame. The rockers were cut out flush with the bottom of the floor, any sheetmetal under the floor was cut out for 4" inward of the outside body line, then 4"x4" square tubing was welded in. Butch put 2" tube bent into a nerf on the side of the 4" square tubing. The square tubing was capped, drilled and tapped for an NPT air fitting on both sides. Nerfs aren't part of the air tank. Fenders had to be trimmed in front, Butch put veritical tabs on the square tubing, drilled and tapped them and bolted the lower fenders to the square tubing. Rear fender line is carried by the tapered cap on the tube in the rear. Butch did a great job. Says he doesn't like working on 55s, so if you contact him he will probably give you the straight dope on how he did it, if you have more questions.

Later on I trimmed the corner panels in the rear and Luke Porter put in 2"x4" square tubing for corner protection, also welded to the sheet metal. He did a great job too.

One of these days I will learn how to weld and put together the tools to do my own fabrication. I have paid other people to do it up until now. No big deal, both guys did great work and they're proud of it.

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Old 08-14-2001, 06:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the details Morgan. I'd seen your article before and your post clarified a lot of questions. Wondering though why you cut out EVERYTHING behind the rockers? Seems to me, one could weld the square tube to the doubled-up vertical panel and the cross bars that go across from Rocker to Rocker and support the floor. Perhaps I'm missing something there that I will discover when I get out the sawzall!

Seems like tying the rock rails to the body makes sense. Alternatively, tying to frame also makes sense but would seem to reduce clearance. Tying into both seems like a bad idea as you defeat the rubber body mounts. Make Sense?

[ 08-14-2001: Message edited by: Screwzer ]
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Old 12-28-2001, 10:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I would not use the body.
This moves the stress from the frame to you body mounts... very bad.

My $.02
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Old 12-28-2001, 10:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have a 76 FJ-55 and I have my nerfs on the frame. Welded on and quite strong (only 2x2 but quite thick). The only complaint I would have about attaching to the frame would be make sure your nerfs are stiff enough and your body mounts are good enough to take the abuse.

frame welded nerfs with a body that rocks back and forth will result in some interesting reshaping of the body =)

Mine work wonderfully, in fact the rear bumper has split boulders before I lifted the truck hehe

Fabbed here in Atlanta at my fabricator of choice....4x4 Customs. Shop run by a guy named Patrick Wilson.
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