Temp and Ammeter dead - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

thwhite · 02-08-2004, 06:37 PM

I've searched the archives for the last 2 hrs., but still these two questions remain:
1) My ammeter is dead. I'm running a GM 350 tpi, one wire. I've tried two different gauges. Is there a way I can test the gauge with a multimeter before I start chasing wires?

2) same problem with tem gauge. I replaced the sender, no change.

On a scale of 1-10, my electrical savvy is about a 2.5.

ROCK HUGGER · 02-08-2004, 06:42 PM

Did it work before and just quit working, or has it ever worked?
To start I would take a volt meter to the batery while the Cruiser is running to see if the alternator is charging thru the amp meter.

thwhite · 02-08-2004, 07:15 PM

Yes, it was working before I had the engine swapped. 305 to a 350. I checked the voltage at the battery and it was 14.7. So I'm getting a charge from somewhere. I read that on later models the ammeters didn't carry the full load from the alternator, but something like 5 amps? Mine is a 78 fj40.

Bundok · 02-08-2004, 07:16 PM

On my 79 FJ40, I used to have the same problem all of the time. If I wiggled the fuse block the would come back. I took it all apart and cleaned it and that fixed it. If I recall correctly, on the 79 and newer you can't replace the fuse block but on 78 and older you can. Several of my 40's had electrical issues go away when I replaced the fuse block. Simple job if you have the replaceable one. Basically it's a bad connection, if you wiggle the fuse block it makes the connection through the corrosion that has created resistance.

Get a little stainless steel wire brush from the welding shop and clean up all of the terminals with that. You can also use an exacto knife to scrape off the corrosion.

Lastly, many 40's have dead ammeters, There is a fuse in the harness wrapped up in tape. That has fixed a few for me. If it was just the ammeter acting up I'd go look for that fuse in your schematic.

When you order the fuse for the ammeter, order the mini light bulb that goes in the head light switch - a lot of Cruiser owners don't even know that it's supposed to light up as most have long since burned out.

Hope this helps

-Stumbaugh

02-08-2004, 06:37 PM	#1 (permalink)
thwhite Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Member # 20103 Location: The Hills of Arkansas Posts: 27	Temp and Ammeter dead I've searched the archives for the last 2 hrs., but still these two questions remain: 1) My ammeter is dead. I'm running a GM 350 tpi, one wire. I've tried two different gauges. Is there a way I can test the gauge with a multimeter before I start chasing wires? 2) same problem with tem gauge. I replaced the sender, no change. On a scale of 1-10, my electrical savvy is about a 2.5. __________________ [COLOR=Orange]78 fj40, 350tpi, 5 spd H55, OME 3"lift, rear ARB, 4wh disks, MetalTech full cage, warn 8k, Corbeau seats/harnesses, new paint, all stainless hardware, etc, etc.[/COLOR] TLCA 13360

02-08-2004, 07:15 PM	#3 (permalink)
thwhite Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Member # 20103 Location: The Hills of Arkansas Posts: 27	Yes, it was working before I had the engine swapped. 305 to a 350. I checked the voltage at the battery and it was 14.7. So I'm getting a charge from somewhere. I read that on later models the ammeters didn't carry the full load from the alternator, but something like 5 amps? Mine is a 78 fj40. __________________ [COLOR=Orange]78 fj40, 350tpi, 5 spd H55, OME 3"lift, rear ARB, 4wh disks, MetalTech full cage, warn 8k, Corbeau seats/harnesses, new paint, all stainless hardware, etc, etc.[/COLOR] TLCA 13360

02-08-2004, 07:16 PM	#4 (permalink)
Bundok Registered User Join Date: Dec 2000 Member # 2567 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 383	On my 79 FJ40, I used to have the same problem all of the time. If I wiggled the fuse block the would come back. I took it all apart and cleaned it and that fixed it. If I recall correctly, on the 79 and newer you can't replace the fuse block but on 78 and older you can. Several of my 40's had electrical issues go away when I replaced the fuse block. Simple job if you have the replaceable one. Basically it's a bad connection, if you wiggle the fuse block it makes the connection through the corrosion that has created resistance. Get a little stainless steel wire brush from the welding shop and clean up all of the terminals with that. You can also use an exacto knife to scrape off the corrosion. Lastly, many 40's have dead ammeters, There is a fuse in the harness wrapped up in tape. That has fixed a few for me. If it was just the ammeter acting up I'd go look for that fuse in your schematic. When you order the fuse for the ammeter, order the mini light bulb that goes in the head light switch - a lot of Cruiser owners don't even know that it's supposed to light up as most have long since burned out. Hope this helps -Stumbaugh __________________ 64 FJ45 LWB TLCA #3531

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02-08-2004, 06:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
ROCK HUGGER Rock God Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 4329 Location: Jackson CA Posts: 2,389	Did it work before and just quit working, or has it ever worked? To start I would take a volt meter to the batery while the Cruiser is running to see if the alternator is charging thru the amp meter.